stormperson

iTrader: (1)

so changing the placement of the pressure fitting made a large difference, or at least it was something worth doing?

also can you provide a picture of where the pressure fitting should go exactly, thanks!

glitch44

Motorman,

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the light. I've owned several cars but, this is by far the best car that I've driven. Very easy to set up from track to track and dissassembly is a snap. Factory and replacement parts are very reasonable and in surplus. I freqeunt your engine discussions and I am very interested in one of your RTUs. In the meantime I'm running a JPMT12, for $209, I thought I'd give it a try. I've heard alot of negative comments on the JP12s but, I can honestly say that with proper tuning, it smokes my stock MT12. On your behalf, a couple people with your RTOs still pull on me on the straightaway @ Crystal. I know your extremely busy but, I just might have to drop some $$$ your way.
Time to play with setups for the 3 day Airtronics race @ Revelations.

che

When you say 'ditch it', do you mean they do not use one at all, or do they replace it with a much stronger one?

Che

TambokGT

I was thinking of getting my Impulse tank and shoe goo it on the car.....I'll see if it fits tonight.

che

I searched past posts and found you are swapping the stock servo spring out for the slipper clutch spring off a GT.
Does anyone have a part number for the slipper clutch spring?

Che

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Tambok the first thing I tried to do was put a serpent cap on it. The holes are offset just enough it wont work :{

Yes the gt slipper spring is the ticket or so I'm told. I have one to put on tonight. (ditch it! I mean change it) Heres the rework for the tank. Plug the stock vent hole with a small screw (not a sheetmetal type! a fine machine screw type). Find a small one or it will split open on you. you can spread it a little bu using a pick or a body reamer to get it started. I decided to put the tap in the lid. Remove the cap, remove the screw from the lid and remove the underside and the oring. set the oring aside. use a body reamer to put about an 1/8th hole in the plastic retaining plate between the screw retaining hole and the outside. set it aside, get a suitable pressure tap fitting (the threaded type) ream another hole in the top of the lid on the outboard side between the screw hole in the lid and the outer edge.(this is to screw the fitting in so make it an appropriate size, I used a GS 90 degree fitting but had to trim the top of the cap bridge a little to get it to fit right) In the same general type place you put it in the other part. be sure to leave room to thread in the fitting so it does not hang up in the center bridge. Install the fitting in the lid. reinstall the oring and the retainer. place the hole in the retainer at the 2 O clock position when looking at the lid from the rear. reinstall the lid, and the line to the cap. retune the engine and go kick some &&*()*_).

You will no longer have fuel blow out onto the front of the chassis when you fuel anymore either.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

well its certainly up to the individual but I certainly prefer top fed pressure. And yes I have and did use a long line looped. Maybe I'm just to finiky.

OB42TC3

Now ditch that x-ray and get a FTC3!

OB42TC3

Dennis, Is the Nova Mega 2103 (RE EV1) the same as the MT12?

kitracer

I totally agreed with the Tank issue. I heard you can use the serpent 1/10 lid but out of stock . may try your method tonight motorman.

But the biggest problem you will find is the clutch. I haven't tried the 3 shoe but the current 2 shoe with harder spring won't work well with a high RPM mod engine. It engaged too early. try with two holes, no good.

I am trying to fit a Kawahara mugen type centrax clutch. The fly wheel is the same size, I just need someone to machine the pinions to fit with the AE pitch.

ZER01

Hey mototrman, Do you think that would cause me to run out of fuel earlier than expected. I'm running out of fuel right at 4 minutes in a 5 minute race. People are saying that my motor is too fat but I don't want to slap any valves-no whata mean?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

OB
X Rays rock dude
Look The NTC3 is pushing it OK. The MTX might still give it a slap job. least you finally parked that NO BEE and got a race car. LOL DOH! Damn snow, was this your Idea!! WTF Going to FT Myers and then having to park the toys for another 2 months really has me Jacked. I'm like the mad scientist right now, wife won't even come into the shop, she just slides dinner under the door.

SX EV1 I'll check, I dont think so but don't quote me till I rustle through some notes.

Ya man need Centax, HUM custom bell, I know I got a machinist with a Hardinge just sitting around at the moment. Sounds like a G Job. Nope 10th serpent cap wont fit right, did that first, pivot holes no line up :{ Not even close.

Proud winner, Its probably to rich but trust me if its rifling fule out the vent into the pipe when you lift off the throttle it surely aint helping

che

Motorman,

Did the GT slipper spring fit?
Have you tested it out yet?

Che

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

the GT spring fits fine...just be advised that you'll need a MG servo,as the spring is ALOT stiffer....Also,I called asociated....under certain conditions,with the stock spring,the car will push......I also talked to Mike Mayberry at Hitec....I'm currently using Hitec digitals in my tc3 nitro,and wanted to know exactly how unbreakable those gears are....he says anything is possible,but you'd probably crack the servo case first,or wear out the gear shaft hole in the case after long term use..my opinion?....Who cares? If the servo lasts one season,and I'm fast,I'll buy another servo.....(actually,I love this car so much,I'd buy a servo every month)...

TambokGT

Yep, just did what I was gonna do. Shoo Gooed an Impulse tank to the chassis and attached the front tank mount to the manifold stay mount with the existing screw and washer.....it works.