ImportRacer1187

Look Here...

http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/kfactory.asp

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Hows it going all? I was wondering DO you guys have the problem w/ your pinion gears folding over and flatting over time? If so, could I use the Kfactory pinion gears since they are hardened, would this help prevent the pinions grears from doing so??

Please let me know your thgouhts thanks Jason

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

The K Factory centax has to use it's own pinions to fit properly. Look at the design of the pinions compared to the stock ones. They do make pinions for the stock 2-3 shoe based clutches.

The only thing I'm curious about is if the K Factory centax is more consistent than the Kawahara unit. I switched back to the 3 shoe because the Kawahara would slip too much later in the day. A couple of guys at the track said the flyweights are too light and need a little more weight to stop the slippage. I'd love to try the K Factory:if I could find one, that's resonably priced, and have the right gearing for me(21,27).

ImportRacer1187

Actually you are wrong... KFactory Makes pinions specificly for the centax true... but the original ones still fit... it comes with 22 and 26 tooth pinions... The threading is the same on this clutch bell as the stock one... unlike the kawahara one which must use special pinions as it was designed for another car and adapted to the NTC3... Im gonna get the Kfactory centax eventually... but for now i think i will pick up the kfactory 3 shoe clutch and flywheel...

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

HUH?confused: Go to the K Factory website and check for yourself. How would you know if they fit if you don't even have one yet? They make pinions that fit their 3 shoe and the AE STOCK clutch bell, in addition, pinions specifically for their centax. And you're wrong about the Kawahara(I used one ,btw) you could use STOCK 1st gear pinions for your desired gearing.

ImportRacer1187

This is a quote from RC Nitro's Super Shop NTC3 Article

"The clutch is threaded in the same way as the stock one..."
That is talking about the kfactory centax.
I also talked to kfactory and they confirmed that the stock pinions work...
Yes it is beter to get the special ones as the threading on the pinion on is extended to get a tigher fit...

As for the kawahara one... i know the normal 1st pinions work... but you still need mugen mtx-2 centax gears for 2nd gear as that is the car this clutch was made for... And since i already have a full set of stock pinions i will get the kfactory one so i dont need any extra parts... though eventually i will get a full set of the kfactory ones (both the hardened centax and the normal ones...) as they are 7075 alluminum which means they are stronger and lighter... decreasing rotating mass which means faster accelleration and maybe a slight top end increase...

XtremeMDX

I am very happy with the Crazy Nut Head on my Novarossi S5. I had problems with my Nova getting too hot. I would run it rich and still I would get temps of 300 - 315 after a few minutes of running. I bought the CNH due to the feedbacks from some of you guys in the forum an I got the temps down to 240-250 without changing carb settings. I also bought a Dynamite header and RB pipe and got it even lower to 220-225. I can now run the carb settings a little leaner and it has been way easier to tune the carb now and the motor has been running very consistent. I can not comment on the durability of the head in a crash since I never run my car without it's body. You did not specify fuse01 if you had the body on when you flipped the car because the stock handle on the NTC3 will not protect the head in a roll over, we all know that already. For the person that commented that the CNH was ugly, that all depends on the eye of the beholder. Most people that has seen the CNH has commented on how awesome it looked, but of course anything is a preference of taste, and everyone has a right to their own opinion. I have attached pics of the CNH and Dynamite/RB exhaust set up.

XtremeMDX

In this hobby the Dremel is one of the most used and most important tool anyone of us should have. Without this tool I would never be able to tackle some of the mods I have done to my RC vehicles. Basic and even better good Dremel skills is essential in this hobby. I have done some custom parts, engine mods, carb mods, car mods, exhaust mods, polishing, etc..... Here's a pic of some mods that I did with the Dremel on my NTC3.
First here's a picture of the stock GPM chassis. I wanted the chassis to be lighter so, the under chassis belly part of it was stripped from it's blue anodizing.

XtremeMDX

Voila, I polished the underbelly and enlarged a few holes. I enlarged the cutout underneath the fuel tank. I also enlarged the cutout for the starterbox/flywheel hole access to have better contact between the flywheel and my starter box. The cutout underneath the receiver box was enlarged as well. I was carefull not to cut too much that it would weaken and throw the chassis off balance. I also used the Dremel to chamfer the edges to match the original chamfer on the original cut outs.

XtremeMDX

Heres the full view including the polished alloy front bumper brace. This brace was looking ugly from all the pits and scratches so I used the Dremel to smooth it out and get the chassis and the front brace to be more flushed with each other. No more ugly looking scratched underbelly.

XtremeMDX

I have done other things with the Dremel but I don't have pics as of yet. I bored and polished the Nova carbs, did this as an experiment to see if polishing the carb intake would make a difference. I also did some minor motor mod work on my cousin's pull start Top engine, I guess it worked since his friends with their Nova rear exhaust and JP mods would not even race him. My point is that the Dremel tool has added a whole new dimension, fun and possibilities to this hobby for myself and a few others.

XtremeMDX

I edited the pics so you can view it. Sorry bout that.

tc3-in

I just don't understand this...This is my second tank after the tap has been moved to the lid and whenever the fuel gets to the joint where the filter attaches to the supply,it starts to suck air.I have an old tank and it runs great except for the crack i soldered/melted back together.The old tank had the tap in the fuel and i moved it to the lid. the two new ones were bought that way.I didn't crash nor do I leave fuel in it.IN fact the second tank is on it's third or fourth fill.I use O'Donnell fuel in all my cars. Does the rtr tank have a filter in it or does the Kfactory tank have one either?I bought the tanks from the same dealer so maybe that is it-a bad batch or something. Any ideas???

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

yes..call Don at associated,and calmly tell him what you percieve the problem to be......he'll tell you to send them in,I'm sure...95% percent of the people who complained about parts when the car firts came did'nt do that..and associated wanted them to...

rcpilot

Is it just me or does the ntc3 have a lot less steering throw than other cars. I just got a ntc3 and had mugens and serpents before and it doesn't seem like it has a lot of throw. It seems that the steering is can't go further as it hits the chassis braces after a while.

Also, does anyone run a ko 2143 servo in their car? It rubs the rpm ball cups slightly and the servo can't be moved back.

Any help appreciated.