bbntc3

I see no problems with the RTR kit. Other than it needs to be gone over and checked, for loose screws and setup error. I have seen a few RTR with loose engine screws and the diff settings was not correct.
As far as Ae farming their rtr molds out to cheaper companys, I doubt it, but you never know. I would'nt think RTR kits are in such a great demand to justify the extra cost to farm the parts out to other companys. But if they do farm it out, I agree, flexy is better for the beginners!
If you bought the RTR all it needs is a 2 speed setup. And, if you plan on racing and you race on straights less than 125'. 22/54 spur and pinion I think, I don't see the need for the 2 speed . We raced a TC3 Trinity Gas Conversion for almost 2 years on short tracks without a 2 speed and had great success. ( actually, better success with the Conversion than the NTC3), but that's just me, the NTC3 is a much better car than the Conversion. Once you get better and use to the car, then graduate to a better chassis and buy a graphite parts kit, for around $100 for both, then buy a 2 speed.

Twist 2 Go

I guess I'm from the old school, and would rather build a kit MYSELF than get one already assembled. To me that is 1/2 the fun of rc'ing. If you have the budget, I would recommend the kit anyday over an RTR. IMO, Buy Cheap, Buy Twice.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

fastharry et. al.,

when I finally do wind up bending my RTR chassis, I plan on getting a team chassis since it is a little stiffer (it's held up pretty well so far but I haven't done a full throttle blast & nailed a board square with the front end yet. Not something I want to try).

I'm sure that AE sent a few sets of molds to Thundertiger so they could outsource the parts locally to save on shipping. I have an RTR & have compared it to the team kit. The team kit parts seem to have less sheen indicating they are out of a slightly harder material. Now the Factory Team parts are stiffer than either the RTR or normal team parts These are the top of the line parts that require great driving skill to use effectively (i.e not breaking them by bouncing of the boards).

A quote directly from the 3/19/03 Associated newsletter:

"The carbon composite or graphite parts are favored by experienced drivers because they are stiffer, not because they are less resistant to breakage. Being stiffer, they are more responsive to the driver's control. We recommend you use the molded composite parts until you learn to keep off the boards. The molded composite parts have more flex."

HTH

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I work next to my LHS..I've compared the chassis's..they're different color....the finish on them isn't teh same.....you think teh RTR GT's are getting factory team chassis's?...

moshmxpx

maybe you need to re-read the other posts too swen, we were stating that many rtr kits come with softer plastic parts, etc. not changes in the molds, just a different plastic. not a different stamp for the chassis, just different material. when you are making 1,000's of these rtr's it makes sense to use a slightly lower grade chassis on the RTR to keep costs down. And RTR's are sometimes built differently, the Losi XXX-NT RTR's diff is different than the normal kit or the factory 'drake edition' it's actually better.

tc3-in

Both the rtr and the kit version is a good deal. The rtr starts you off on a higher platform than say a 4-tec or an hpi or Kyosho or whatever.Compared to the kit version,quality is somewhat com promised due to profit made by each unit sold. Imagine the price tag of a kit with a radio,painted body and some support epuipment.You are looking at over $300 easy.So to make money,a company will cut cost by lowering whatever they can according to their quality control integrity and add that to mass production(at my hobby shop there are more rtr kits in stock and sold than kit versions) the company makes money.The good thing about the rtr is that it is still a great car in whatever form it is sold.I have seen rtr on smaller courses hang with higher priced kits.What kit do you know has quality ball diffs? No filling with diff oil makes life pretty easy.Bearings throughout? usually a kit feature.Decent driveshafts?Most rtr uses dogbones that go flying if you hit the boards. Adjustable turnbuckles? Usually in a rtr you get those cheesy, molded, one-piece bend-a-lots that are common on other companies rtr's. Just sit an Associated rtr next to another rtr of another company and it isn't even fair to the other car.sometimes we forget how good this car is as far as adjustability. Go try and race ready a 4-tec or a rs4.Try adjusting the caster,camber,toe-in ,droop or even ride height with one of the other rtr kits. None adjustable turnbuckles need be replaced, different hubs or carriers need be bought and the list goes on and on.HOW COULD I FORGET ABOUT PIVOT BALL SUSPENSION ?try finding that on another rtr priced similiarly with those other features found on the associated rtr!!! It is a matter of time before RCCA gives the rtr an award . In some ways, the rtr version is doing for on-road nitro what the T-maxx did for nitro monster trucks-----A ton of good features at a good price aimed at people who normally would not have bought a kit version.

MR Spyder

How does a front 1-way work for the NTC3? I've it fixed onto my NTC3.. but the thing is, when I roll the front tires forward, they rotate very freely. But when I roll it backwards, all 4 wheels rotate!

Also, how different will the car w/F&R ball diffs react, as compared to a Front 1-way w/rear ball diff??

I'm confused..

OB42TC3

do a search on one-way, you will be able to find as much as you want OR drive your car and form your own opinion.

puma1824

Anyone notice the difference or feel the need to replace the stock brake bushings with Brake Cam Bearings - ASC# 1709

simonfdr

I didnt.



Also does anybody have the K-Factory Fuel Tank? If you do, what difference does it make. What will it affect, and how will it affect me?

Boomer

I'm not planning to do that - so much gunk gets in that area on my car that I don't want to put bearings in. . .I would rather keep the bushings. It isn't a high "rotation" area or even a precision area like the steering or prop-shaft. . .so I'm sticking with the bushings for the time being

theRED5

Kool> try EliteHobbies.com, I got my new gears from them, adn they have fast friendly service.

I ran the new KFactory tank, didn't really feel much of a difference to the handling. the tank was exactly 75cc's that helped at the WinterNats, where they were measuring fuel capacity. The Assoc tank is 79cc without the plug, and about 76cc with the plug, we had to add fuel line IN the tank to make the legal 75cc max fuel cap. The Kfac tank is too brittle, I was barely moving and slid sideways into a wall, and the tank broke. Save your money for somethnig else. Its not a good deal.

The oneway allows the car to enter the corner faster, by freewheeling into the corner.

MR Spyder

Is the K-Factory graphite side brace compatible with the NTC3's stock fuel tank??

I'd been adviced to get it as it protects the fuel tank.. but I'm not sure if I have to get both the K-Factory fuel tank & graphote side brace, or just the side brace alone...

dvargas

Does anyone know were to get the 2 speed tranny for the NTC 3 RTR?? and how much it costs??

simonfdr

I think its $55.00 try http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMH6&P=7