SRBMOJO

iTrader: (67)

I have been having terrible luck with CA gluing my carbon parts. Any tips on applying, and most important, a good brand and thickness of CA.

Steve

not home

iTrader: (23)

i read this in a magazine article that you just put a dap or it on there and then spead it around the edges with a toothpick or something and wait til it dries.

revolution31

iTrader: (6)

Medium to Medium-Thin CA.....put a big puddle of it on a plastic cap or something that you can just throw away....use Q-tips.... Roll one of the ends of the Q-tip in the CA puddle and then use the Q-tip to apply the CA evenly

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

Yep, the thicker stuff will be easier to apply, and won't cause as big of a mess if you make a mistake.

Fred_B

iTrader: (1)

If you screw it up, just use some acetone to take it back off. Just let it soak a little on the glue and wipe it off.

I've found that the q-tip method mentioned above works best for me.

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

Listen to Fred... He is right on when it comes to this. I also use the Q-tip method but i usually use a thicker glue if i have time. But if i am in a rush then i use thinner glue to dry faster then redo it later when i do have time...


Mike

hpipro4

iTrader: (100)

you can use debonder to get unwanted ca......great planes makes it..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK299&P=7

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Get the losi CA glue, it comes with an applicator tube, this makes applying the CA to a think edge a lot easier. I've seen some others come with a cone applicator this will work too.

Fred_B

iTrader: (1)

A quart of acetone will last pretty much forever and is about the same price (at least I think it was 2 years ago when I baught the last can).

artwork

iTrader: (88)

How do you get the CA to be shinny, mine always gets that white crust on it after it dries! How do you fix that?

CREWMAN

iTrader: (20)

I use the method where you use the tip and drag. after it dries i wet sand the glued areas with 600 sandpaper

a_main_attendee

iTrader: (2)

I sand the chassis with progressivly smoother sandpaper, then i wash all the dust and debris off, then i spray some CA accelerant over the edges and when doing so i let it "soak in" for about 30 seconds. After doing so, i wipe the excess off (leaving accelerant on will leave a white, crusty finish when the CA dries). I then hold the carbon fiber plate (shock tower, chassis, etc) vertical so i can apply a small drop of thin CA and then i let it "drip" around the edge of the chassis as i countenually rotate it. It only takes about 2 or three drops, and if applied right, the CA accelerator will prevent the drip from flowing on to the rest of the chassis. You can also easily do this on the negitive (or cut out) portions of the chassis such as battery slots. This method might not be as easy as the q-tip though, but it worked for me.

RCSteve93

iTrader: (11)

The accelerator idea is a good one. I just use the Q-Tip method and any CA that drips over I take one of the long sharp blades that automotive guys use to remove paint and I just run it over the chassis, and any part where CA went over the edge gets cut off. Since the blade and chassis are both mostly flat you wont make scratches as you run it over it.

tc3team

Get some of these: http://www.sparklesbeauty.co.uk/images/cotbuds.jpg

Then apply the CA to the end, let the cotton dry out, then apply more to the tip and slowly work your way around the edges, rolling the tip if need be.

And as mentioned, yes the thicker CA can be easier to work with

hth

cyclone

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0

This is how i do it,
hth's
andy