best ballcups
#46
Tracks don't break cars, drivers do ~ either by pushing the design boundaries of the vehicle, or by overdriving, or by simple abuse, or by letting plastic parts wear to the point of no return and breaking before bothing to do routine maintenance and replacement.
I've yet to visit a track in which I put my car down and it instantaneously combusted, exploded into a million pieces, or was thrown outside the track walls by the track.
#47
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
NOt for nothing, but ball cups are ball cups. Yeah, some may fit a bit better and not have as much friction, but I have never had any problems with the stock Associated, stock Losi black--even the stock Tamiya 501x ones (which everyone seems to change because they are soft).
I have 2 or 3 packages of Jconepts, a bunch of Losi blacks and greys--2 packages of stock Associated and some Lunsford ones. They are still in the package and not on any cars because I only replace cups when the originals break or get very sloppy. I am not going to throw away perfectly good stock cups.
The ones I think are very slightly better than stock are the Jconcepts, RPM, Lunsford and Losi whites.
They shouldn't be so tight to where they break the turnbuckle in a hard hit--they are supposed to pop off to save the turnbuckles and ball studs. If they are popping off too easily however, they are most likely worn. You should really replace them after popping them off 3-4 times for maint. They will get looser.
I have 2 or 3 packages of Jconepts, a bunch of Losi blacks and greys--2 packages of stock Associated and some Lunsford ones. They are still in the package and not on any cars because I only replace cups when the originals break or get very sloppy. I am not going to throw away perfectly good stock cups.
The ones I think are very slightly better than stock are the Jconcepts, RPM, Lunsford and Losi whites.
They shouldn't be so tight to where they break the turnbuckle in a hard hit--they are supposed to pop off to save the turnbuckles and ball studs. If they are popping off too easily however, they are most likely worn. You should really replace them after popping them off 3-4 times for maint. They will get looser.
#48
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I think I've heard that about literally every track I've been to, and that count is now in the hundreds.
Tracks don't break cars, drivers do ~ either by pushing the design boundaries of the vehicle, or by overdriving, or by simple abuse, or by letting plastic parts wear to the point of no return and breaking before bothing to do routine maintenance and replacement.
I've yet to visit a track in which I put my car down and it instantaneously combusted, exploded into a million pieces, or was thrown outside the track walls by the track.
Tracks don't break cars, drivers do ~ either by pushing the design boundaries of the vehicle, or by overdriving, or by simple abuse, or by letting plastic parts wear to the point of no return and breaking before bothing to do routine maintenance and replacement.
I've yet to visit a track in which I put my car down and it instantaneously combusted, exploded into a million pieces, or was thrown outside the track walls by the track.
You already got banned once..... Vineland is a hard track and a part breaker just look at the results on their site.
You will see lots of dnf's not from me so much but you'll see them.
#49
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
I think I've heard that about literally every track I've been to, and that count is now in the hundreds.
Tracks don't break cars, drivers do ~ either by pushing the design boundaries of the vehicle, or by overdriving, or by simple abuse, or by letting plastic parts wear to the point of no return and breaking before bothing to do routine maintenance and replacement.
I've yet to visit a track in which I put my car down and it instantaneously combusted, exploded into a million pieces, or was thrown outside the track walls by the track.
Tracks don't break cars, drivers do ~ either by pushing the design boundaries of the vehicle, or by overdriving, or by simple abuse, or by letting plastic parts wear to the point of no return and breaking before bothing to do routine maintenance and replacement.
I've yet to visit a track in which I put my car down and it instantaneously combusted, exploded into a million pieces, or was thrown outside the track walls by the track.
I will agree with RB5 on this one as the track is very difficult. The huge triple is hungary for parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It wants fed every Saturday during the summer.
#50
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
I guess Kinwald has a problem.
#52
Well you obviously never been to Vineland. In years past the track had small jumps and you never got much air or need any power to make the jumps. Now the track is just like a SuperCross track with huge air, jumps and need plenty of power to make the jumps. Combine that with the low traction and parts breakage is easy if you are the slightest bit offline. The wood walls and wood on the side of the jumps don't help any. I been racing 24 years and while this track use to be fairly easy on parts now it is brutal. If you make 3 heats and the main without breaking you had a great day. Even the best around from regional champs to national champs break parts at this this track easily.
I will agree with RB5 on this one as the track is very difficult. The huge triple is hungary for parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It wants fed every Saturday during the summer.
I will agree with RB5 on this one as the track is very difficult. The huge triple is hungary for parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It wants fed every Saturday during the summer.
#53
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
#55
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
They have Associated parts in stock. No Kyosho parts except for what Bob Walker has for his RB5 and two others have some parts for the ZX-SP 4wd car.
#56
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
Well I was going to skip the 19th because it is ROAR and I don't like them or want to give them a dime (no matter what brushless I run as I feel the same if I ran Novak or LRP but I just don't like ROAR). But since you are looking to come down I will run that race if your coming down.
They have Associated parts in stock. No Kyosho parts except for what Bob Walker has for his RB5 and two others have some parts for the ZX-SP 4wd car.
They have Associated parts in stock. No Kyosho parts except for what Bob Walker has for his RB5 and two others have some parts for the ZX-SP 4wd car.
all kidding aside.....
You should go i feel the same about roar especially after the front tire fiasco at vineland.
I don't think i should have to pay a extra 15 bucks or 30 bucks for the year for a membership to something that really does nothing. It's toy car racing not the FIA.
I suppose i need to stock up on zx-5 front arms, shock towers and hubs then.
#57
I have a somewhat related question. How do you guys remove ball cups from the studs without bending and scraping (pliers) the cup itself? Is there a tool that does it without too much damage to either parts?
#58
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
^^^ I use very sharp pliers and grab the ball cup on the shank and twist it, this will pop it off and shouldnt damage it.
I have used many different rod ends over the years and i must say the 2x best i have used by far as the Losi white cups and the J concepts ones, they are made from a very hard composite almost like graphite or stifezel. I have used RPM ones many times back in the day and whilst they work good are a lot less forgiving if you have to remove them a couple of times, because they are nylon they tend to stretch very easily and develop slop a lot faster.
One thing thats critical with any rod end installation is the pre-tapping of the rod ends with the turnbuckles first and making sure you are using the correct length turnbuckle for the camber link you are using, failure to do both will stress the rod ends and lead to breakages on impacts. I always grip the rod end in a pair of pliers and grease the turnbuckle thread with teflon grease and then work it all the way in and back out about 2-3 times to make sure the threads are well cut. Then i will go ahead and thread both sides on and then measure them and make sure each side is exactly the same thread count threaded in and then pop them onto the ball studs. It is super important to make sure that only about 3/4 of the thread is inside the rod end when the car is set to the correct camber and camber link etc. and they links arent threaded to far in or to far out and only holding by a few threads, having them in the perfect spot will allow some flex and will give them the best strength they can have.
I have used many different rod ends over the years and i must say the 2x best i have used by far as the Losi white cups and the J concepts ones, they are made from a very hard composite almost like graphite or stifezel. I have used RPM ones many times back in the day and whilst they work good are a lot less forgiving if you have to remove them a couple of times, because they are nylon they tend to stretch very easily and develop slop a lot faster.
One thing thats critical with any rod end installation is the pre-tapping of the rod ends with the turnbuckles first and making sure you are using the correct length turnbuckle for the camber link you are using, failure to do both will stress the rod ends and lead to breakages on impacts. I always grip the rod end in a pair of pliers and grease the turnbuckle thread with teflon grease and then work it all the way in and back out about 2-3 times to make sure the threads are well cut. Then i will go ahead and thread both sides on and then measure them and make sure each side is exactly the same thread count threaded in and then pop them onto the ball studs. It is super important to make sure that only about 3/4 of the thread is inside the rod end when the car is set to the correct camber and camber link etc. and they links arent threaded to far in or to far out and only holding by a few threads, having them in the perfect spot will allow some flex and will give them the best strength they can have.
#59
Tech Addict
75% of the people on a race track use RPM ball-cups,
Now I've seen the Schumacher cups before and they are super hard.
Now I've seen the Schumacher cups before and they are super hard.
#60
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
I'll be there wyd, if your planning on punching me in the face make sure you wear your mamba t-shirt so i can atleast see it coming...LOL
all kidding aside.....
You should go i feel the same about roar especially after the front tire fiasco at vineland.
I don't think i should have to pay a extra 15 bucks or 30 bucks for the year for a membership to something that really does nothing. It's toy car racing not the FIA.
I suppose i need to stock up on zx-5 front arms, shock towers and hubs then.
all kidding aside.....
You should go i feel the same about roar especially after the front tire fiasco at vineland.
I don't think i should have to pay a extra 15 bucks or 30 bucks for the year for a membership to something that really does nothing. It's toy car racing not the FIA.
I suppose i need to stock up on zx-5 front arms, shock towers and hubs then.
Not really trying to punch you in the mouth with my Castle stuff. Its all going to be for fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And by the way are track is easier on parts than Vineland.
I'm with on the exta funds. Thats extra tires or even better yet extra food at races.