smitty

Have a quick question for you LD3 owners. I have 2 RTR's for my younger kids. What are you putting in the front and rear diffs? I have Mugen 100K, 50 and 30.
I was going to put 100k in the front anf 50 in the rear, but thought I would see what you are all using.
Thanks,
Smitty

au_Nightmare

Well, I was talking about the centax that comes with the LD3

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Ooopsss...

IDrinkNitro

Ok so here is my problem. I believe this pic shows the issue. I have this clutch nut screwed all the way in and as you can see it is not quite securing the flywheel

IDrinkNitro

Sorry guys, not sure what I am doing wrong as far as posting the pics goes

sup

ey smitty! right now, some of us are testing what oil to put. im trying 100K in front and 30K in rear, will be trying it out later hopefully. i think spenzalii will be trying out 150K in front and 100K in rear. it will be nice if you try 100K in front and 50K in the rear so that we will have a general idea of what to use (for people using diffs front and rear). will post my feedbacks later. by the way, this will be my first time using diff oil so i will be comparing this to my previous set-up with the stock grease.

IDrinkNitro

here are pics of the clutch parts as requested.





The ofna manual says nothing of using a collet with a threaded shaft but from what I can see there is no way this will work without using the gold collet that came with the sirio motor. Your thoughts??

dtm

OK. one thing you should check. The threaded portion of your crankshaft...is this part of the crank or is it a threaded rod going into the crank.

You can normally tell by the way the threads go into the crank....if the threads stop before the flush portion it is part of the crank.....if the threads go all the way into the flush portion it is actually a threaded rod going into the crank.

Nova engines use threaded rod for their short cranks and you just have to undo the threaded rod and put an adaptor (from Mugen) to convert from short crank to SG crank.

However, either way, it looks like you will have to cut the threaded portion of the crank because your flywheel nut is for a short crank anyway. It may be easier to remove the threaded rod first before cutting...if that is what it is...... Good luck!!

Yes..you do have to use the brass collar.....

IDrinkNitro

Thank you very much for your inputs. I will see if it is possible to convert the shaft, if not then I will break out the dremel, pipe cutter, or hacksaw

dtm

Even if you convert the shaft to SG...you will still need to change the engine nut...but this may be an eaiser option!!

sup

one more thing, use the collet that hong nor/ofna supplied. my flywheel was slipping after about a gallon of fuel used (this maybe due to the nut not tightened enough though.), just my 2 cents.

Manticore

it looks like the threaded part of the shaft can be removed just like the novarossi shaft. but the picture is not very clear, so I might be wrong.

Randy G

i decided to go with the pro and picco package

not to sound like an idiot but in all the gas cars i ran in the past i never used a fail safe

just what is it that the fail safe does???

havy

Keeps your car from going crazy when someone else w/ the same frequency turns on their radio. I highly recommend it, and over here for racing it's mandatory

best investment I've made.

havy

Randy G

thank you for the info on the fail safe does it shut your car down or what