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Old 01-17-2010, 03:03 PM
  #496  
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have one for sale cant afford more electronics brand new put it together never ran it
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:18 PM
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hollywoodtc5 how much are you asking for it. PM me some info Thanks
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:26 AM
  #498  
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
Contact AE customer service they will send you a replacment.
Hi Sean

I found out my kit has the same problem; I contacted AE but they think it's a screw issue. Do they only do domestic warranty or something?

Cheers
Daniel
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:32 PM
  #499  
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Does anyone if the offset of the jacos are the same as crc's? Time for a new set and wanted to try the jacos.. Thanks..
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:41 PM
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Yes they Are
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by walterhenderson
Yes they Are
Thank you Walt..
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Old 03-11-2010, 04:47 AM
  #502  
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Default How to fit saddle 2S lipo pack in 10R5

Hi!

I got some free time. I want to put my 2S lipo back and 17.5T engine to
my 10R5. In my country we try drive on 4cell or 1S lipo 13.5T but I got
bad luck and I destroy my 13.5T engine in DTM car so I want to back 2S
racing

I have some option for 2S lipo stick pack from UK but I don't like it,
for me it is not I want ...

Now I got new packet 2S lipo saddle from GM (4200/30C #98994) and
how to put it on car without made big mess.

For 1st time I put shock carbon tower to another direction, add some tube
for more length of shock.

There is pic:
Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_9395.jpg

Now you can see that blue part is moved about 3mm up.
Shock tube is too long (I will do it shorter).

At this pic you can see that lipo fit nice and we have some place for ESC
in the center
Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_9397.jpg

Now I must made short tube, probably cut new shock tower and test it
on track
m.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_9396.jpg   Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_9394.jpg   Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_9393.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:47 AM
  #503  
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so idd you actually have to relocate the shock mount to fit the battery in behind it?
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Hi!

I got some free time. I want to put my 2S lipo back and 17.5T engine to
my 10R5. In my country we try drive on 4cell or 1S lipo 13.5T but I got
bad luck and I destroy my 13.5T engine in DTM car so I want to back 2S
racing

I have some option for 2S lipo stick pack from UK but I don't like it,
for me it is not I want ...

Now I got new packet 2S lipo saddle from GM (4200/30C #98994) and
how to put it on car without made big mess.

For 1st time I put shock carbon tower to another direction, add some tube
for more length of shock.

There is pic:
Attachment 566146

Now you can see that blue part is moved about 3mm up.
Shock tube is too long (I will do it shorter).

At this pic you can see that lipo fit nice and we have some place for ESC
in the center
Attachment 566148

Now I must made short tube, probably cut new shock tower and test it
on track
m.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:53 AM
  #504  
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Originally Posted by kawirider
so idd you actually have to relocate the shock mount to fit the battery in behind it?
Nope!

Blue part is in oryginal position

GM sadle pack is EFRA legal only problem is with shock tower
Tomorrow I will do new one from some broken carbon parts

From my friends car, BMI10, I know that I need angle about 6deg,
today for test my angle was 10deg.



m.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:44 PM
  #505  
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Hi!

Updated pics from my phone:


:-) now I need to cut off some carbon (part taken from 12L4 )

Center weight front/rear is on white tool, it is about 110mm from
rear axle Should be fine, because with 1S lipo SMC I can
have it in this line

So car is almost ready for 2S/1S only change engine for track rule


Regards!
m.
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:10 PM
  #506  
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Has anyone seen any benefits running a larger shock body like the other gt chassis? Would it help the issue with rear standoffs bending possibly, just because it is larger in its self?
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:14 AM
  #507  
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Originally Posted by Tha Skinny
Has anyone seen any benefits running a larger shock body like the other gt chassis? Would it help the issue with rear standoffs bending possibly, just because it is larger in its self?

I can feel difference for oils, 250,300, 350 and for springs.
So for me it is better then oryginal ae.

Btw I saw oryginal broken in accident (that was in E12 12R5.1) and I switch to
bigger TC one. Now I have two side shocks and is easy to fast change (thin oil, thick oil).



I remember that with 1st shock from kyosho RRR, I put some o-rings between shock body and plastics spring holder

Wish you good luck!
m.
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:31 PM
  #508  
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Has anyone had problems with the front wheels getting stuck on the blue suspension mounts?

When I turn, the front inside wheel sticks out of the body and if this wheel catches the wall (I like to hug the corners), the wall actually shoves the tire back or turns the wheel enough to get it stuck on the inside of the rear blue aluminum suspension mount. The wheel has to physically be turned out to get it unstuck.

Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:59 PM
  #509  
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It sounds like your tires are rather large to have this happen. You could try moving the wheel farther out on the axle using shims. I read about someone using a longer screw on the upper arm mounts along with some shims to act as wheel stops, but I am not sure about how well that works. Sounds a little fishy if you ask me.
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:09 PM
  #510  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
It sounds like your tires are rather large to have this happen. You could try moving the wheel farther out on the axle using shims. I read about someone using a longer screw on the upper arm mounts along with some shims to act as wheel stops, but I am not sure about how well that works. Sounds a little fishy if you ask me.
Same tires everyone else is using (standard 1/10 front wheels) but, nobody else at our track is using this kind of front end to see if something different is happening with my car.

"Upper arm mounts"? Do you mean lower arm mounts? The upper arm mounts are on the other side of the bulkhead.

I am maybe considering a button-head screw on the wheel side with some shims to keep is from going past that point and getting locked in. It may help.

What do you mean by "fishy"?
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