Kyosho FW-05R
#4654
Originally Posted by uaerc
hI gUYS
i am upgrading my Fwo5rr with 37T Bevel gear sets. front and rear.
Can someone tell me what is the best pinion and Spur combination with this setup. currently i am on stock gears. I got all the gears possible with me should i go for the max.. to be the fastest car. or low to mid pinion on 1st gear and high T pinion on the second.
Also I would be replacing the TR with the OS 12 TZ T5 engine.
10k diff oils in front and 3k diff oil in the rear.
Currently the Car skids away at turns. I used a lot of toe in 2.5 i think. high camber etc. No roll bars front and rear. 500 shock oils front and rear. Silver soft springs front and rear.ride height is around 7-6 mm
any other things i should keep in mind. My track is low traction. any other tricks to make my car as stable as in the world championships. Those guys drive as the car is stuck to the ground...... do they use magnets in their tires ??
i am upgrading my Fwo5rr with 37T Bevel gear sets. front and rear.
Can someone tell me what is the best pinion and Spur combination with this setup. currently i am on stock gears. I got all the gears possible with me should i go for the max.. to be the fastest car. or low to mid pinion on 1st gear and high T pinion on the second.
Also I would be replacing the TR with the OS 12 TZ T5 engine.
10k diff oils in front and 3k diff oil in the rear.
Currently the Car skids away at turns. I used a lot of toe in 2.5 i think. high camber etc. No roll bars front and rear. 500 shock oils front and rear. Silver soft springs front and rear.ride height is around 7-6 mm
any other things i should keep in mind. My track is low traction. any other tricks to make my car as stable as in the world championships. Those guys drive as the car is stuck to the ground...... do they use magnets in their tires ??
You can go to a much thicker diff oil in the front if the car is a handfull to drive. Also, use the L rear suspension mounts to lower the roll center in the rear. I'll be the first to admit the FW-05R struggles with low traction.
#4655
Tech Master
Originally Posted by impalabob64
i run 21/50 27/45, 37t ringgear ,frt & rear, 37shore frt&rear 58mm frt,59mmrear,frt 0droop,3mmdroop rear.i also run the 3r frt knuckles.
#4656
Tech Master
RRR
Nimo and Jeff(Lin),
You guys raced with FW05's and now have converted to RRR. Last weekend, we had the Mugen Seiki Asian Cup in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 2 RRR qualified top 7 with 1 Serpent (all 3 local drivers), the other 4 were Mugen and the very top drivers (Tanaka). I finished 13 position (FW05R).
My point is, I noticed the RRR were dialled in the corners and it was just magical to watch them go into a turn (I was 1 of the marshall during the top driver's heat). But at the same note the Mugen cars were also equally as good going into the corners (at the hands of the japanese drivers, not the local drivers )
I know you guys have been asked many times, but I would appreciate your comments on: 1) is setting up the car easier than FW05R 2) I have always been driving shaft cars (NTC3 then now FW05R), changing to a belt car is like yuks! how did you find the change over?
Handling wise I know the RRR can go into a corner with much faster speed than the Fw05R and it does not push out as much but rather turn into the corner.
Thanks in advance.
You guys raced with FW05's and now have converted to RRR. Last weekend, we had the Mugen Seiki Asian Cup in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 2 RRR qualified top 7 with 1 Serpent (all 3 local drivers), the other 4 were Mugen and the very top drivers (Tanaka). I finished 13 position (FW05R).
My point is, I noticed the RRR were dialled in the corners and it was just magical to watch them go into a turn (I was 1 of the marshall during the top driver's heat). But at the same note the Mugen cars were also equally as good going into the corners (at the hands of the japanese drivers, not the local drivers )
I know you guys have been asked many times, but I would appreciate your comments on: 1) is setting up the car easier than FW05R 2) I have always been driving shaft cars (NTC3 then now FW05R), changing to a belt car is like yuks! how did you find the change over?
Handling wise I know the RRR can go into a corner with much faster speed than the Fw05R and it does not push out as much but rather turn into the corner.
Thanks in advance.
#4657
Hi there,
I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.
I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).
Hope this helps.
I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.
I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).
Hope this helps.
#4658
Tech Master
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Hi there,
I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.
I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).
Hope this helps.
I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.
I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).
Hope this helps.
One more question. Kyosho manual do not state shimming behind the centax inner bearing. Do you put shim behind the bearing (inner) so that the centax is free to spin and not sticking to the clutch?
#4659
Originally Posted by cow buster
Thanks Jefferylin. Same reply I read on most of the threads. But coming froma FW05R owner makes the difference. It is the speed of getting in and out of the corners that counts.
One more question. Kyosho manual do not state shimming behind the centax inner bearing. Do you put shim behind the bearing (inner) so that the centax is free to spin and not sticking to the clutch?
One more question. Kyosho manual do not state shimming behind the centax inner bearing. Do you put shim behind the bearing (inner) so that the centax is free to spin and not sticking to the clutch?
#4660
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
3r knuckles
hey, cow buster the 3r knuckle gives alot of steering.Try dialing out some of your steering,or check your droop settings in the frt,an rear try 0 frt,3rear .Hear in Fla. We use vht,or grape soda,so traction is not a problem at all.You want to here something funny at the Winternat i used Josh,s set that he ran on the fwo5rr,the car was glued to the track on 37shore tires.The serpent,mugens,an Grinders 3r where running 40,42 an some 45 shore so not to traction roll.I ran 37 shore all day.
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#4661
Has anyone tried running the front with overdrive? ie; front bevel 40T and rear 39T??
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4662
Tech Regular
help need parts
hey guys! i need a rear diff case the input shaft seized a bearing and it melted the case. help plz. the diff housing and gears are fine i just need a rear case. part # vso25 rear bulk set. tried the online shops and nobodys got one except rc union and that takes 2 weeks to get. i need one now! if anybodys got one let me know by email. and i check as soon as i get home from work and i am on most of the evening. thanks guys! despretly seeking parts. doug
#4663
rc.hackmaster dump the car and get a real one. Just kidding guys we know each other.
#4664
Originally Posted by cow buster
2) I have always been driving shaft cars (NTC3 then now FW05R), changing to a belt car is like yuks! how did you find the change over?
#4665
Tech Master
Originally Posted by impalabob64
The serpent,mugens,an Grinders 3r where running 40,42 an some 45 shore so not to traction roll.I ran 37 shore all day.
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