Kyosho FW-05R
#4381
WHat is the weight of you guys'FW-05R. Is it possible to dip below 1600grams? (without body shell)
#4382
Originally posted by BundyMan
WHat is the weight of you guys'FW-05R. Is it possible to dip below 1600grams? (without body shell)
WHat is the weight of you guys'FW-05R. Is it possible to dip below 1600grams? (without body shell)
#4383
Re: springs
Originally posted by rc.hackmaster
i guess nobody wants to help with any kind of a spring chart? ok fine i will have to look for my self or something. thanks guys.
i guess nobody wants to help with any kind of a spring chart? ok fine i will have to look for my self or something. thanks guys.
#4384
Originally posted by InitialD
You already know the answer to this one...
You already know the answer to this one...
#4385
Tech Regular
cant read japanese. i think i will put in a call to the kyosho team manager. mr leblanc. lives a couple miles from here, and a friend is buds with him. thanks for the chart. doug
#4386
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Well I got the wrench work done on my FW-05RR today!
Its now all set for racing, just need the body. The cars been ballanced to have a 50/50 weight split and cross weight (a good starting point to learn the new car).
http://clegg.procooling.com/rc/RR/IMG_0005.jpg
http://clegg.procooling.com/rc/RR/IMG_0007.jpg
Its setup pretty much to the stock setup and I am going to tune from there. I am also putting the stock springs back all around and tuning from there. I will also be putting in the locked front diff at some point. But its at a solid level for starting the season off at this point. I need to see what the new track we are running this summer will look like before I do anything drastic
also you can see I have no power switch, didnt want to deal with the wire, and the fact that the switch had a chance of hitting the ground in hard cornering wasnt something I liked. I just put a small 1mm socket head screw into the power plug so its easy to pull out of the reciever.
Its now all set for racing, just need the body. The cars been ballanced to have a 50/50 weight split and cross weight (a good starting point to learn the new car).
http://clegg.procooling.com/rc/RR/IMG_0005.jpg
http://clegg.procooling.com/rc/RR/IMG_0007.jpg
Its setup pretty much to the stock setup and I am going to tune from there. I am also putting the stock springs back all around and tuning from there. I will also be putting in the locked front diff at some point. But its at a solid level for starting the season off at this point. I need to see what the new track we are running this summer will look like before I do anything drastic
also you can see I have no power switch, didnt want to deal with the wire, and the fact that the switch had a chance of hitting the ground in hard cornering wasnt something I liked. I just put a small 1mm socket head screw into the power plug so its easy to pull out of the reciever.
#4387
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Originally posted by InitialD
You already know the answer to this one...
You already know the answer to this one...
#4388
Have been doing some major testing today (at last the weather is on my side).
I have been concentrating on getting more front end bite without the over aggresive turn in nature I found using a stiffer front roll bar, what I have found is that the RR front end behaves in the opposite way to what the R front end did, and have ended up running 60wt front oil with the shock uppers mouted on the outside holes, this now give more power on steering through the sweepers whilst still keeping the relaxed nature of the car, the result being a car that is half a second a lap faster while actually feeling slower to drive.
Hope this helps those still hunting that front end bite
I have been concentrating on getting more front end bite without the over aggresive turn in nature I found using a stiffer front roll bar, what I have found is that the RR front end behaves in the opposite way to what the R front end did, and have ended up running 60wt front oil with the shock uppers mouted on the outside holes, this now give more power on steering through the sweepers whilst still keeping the relaxed nature of the car, the result being a car that is half a second a lap faster while actually feeling slower to drive.
Hope this helps those still hunting that front end bite
#4389
Tech Apprentice
FWO5R
here is my FWO5R running with O.S max 12TR japen engine...
#4390
Tech Apprentice
fwo5r
other side of my fwo5r pic...
#4391
hey xiaohe,
Since we`re from the same place, where do u find cheap stuff? hopups and all? i just bought my FW05T at S$499 only to find orchard plaze selling FW05R at 350
Since we`re from the same place, where do u find cheap stuff? hopups and all? i just bought my FW05T at S$499 only to find orchard plaze selling FW05R at 350
#4392
Is there any difference between these two rear arms other than the other being made of carbon composite? VZ004C and VZ004CH?
http://rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=...sort=2a&page=5
http://rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=...sort=2a&page=5
#4393
Originally posted by dct147
hey xiaohe,
Since we`re from the same place, where do u find cheap stuff? hopups and all? i just bought my FW05T at S$499 only to find orchard plaze selling FW05R at 350
hey xiaohe,
Since we`re from the same place, where do u find cheap stuff? hopups and all? i just bought my FW05T at S$499 only to find orchard plaze selling FW05R at 350
Rgds
#4394
Originally posted by BundyMan
Is there any difference between these two rear arms other than the other being made of carbon composite? VZ004C and VZ004CH?
http://rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=...sort=2a&page=5
Is there any difference between these two rear arms other than the other being made of carbon composite? VZ004C and VZ004CH?
http://rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=...sort=2a&page=5