Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

This was Josh Cyrul's car at the 2004 Nationals. It clearly an RR.

NiMo

1) Only just been released from the factory, may be a month before Hong Kong gets them in.

2) Speedmind Ti is soft, I've had to bin most of them after they stripped, Tamiya is much stronger but only does cross head.

3) I'm still running the original clutch shoe, and have done over 100 hours of running with this car.
Grey = Soft Take Up
Black = Standard Kit
Red = Sharp Take Up

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

THank you thats exactly the info I wanted!!

Also has anyone ordered from www.rc-union.com? they seem to have the RR conversion in stock (the only place I have found with it in stock)

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

you beat me to it!!

NiMo

Yes I have ordered parts from them, but not my conversion kit.
(got mine from Japan on Dec 6th)

Alain Patry

iTrader: (22)

Hi ,on the Josh Cyrul car's picture you can see a canister install on the pressure line it's a standard fuel filter that you put there or it's a special part to be use. If it's a special part that will be use for that purpose do you know what is the part number and the manufacturer, thank you.

Also i buy my fw-05rr conversion kit from rc-union and all was o.k.

Alain

3434

Thats a Kyosho fuel filter, part #1876

BundyMan

Noticed 2 things different, firstly is the CF upper deck. The shape is different especially near the location where the receiver is mounted and secondly, was that the kawahara CF front shock tower?

Rgds

TRAJ

Anyone?

InitialD

TRAJ, check up with jeffreylin. He has both the RRR and the FW05RR.

jeffreylin

I have the FW05R, FW05RR and V1RRR and the RRR is better in my opinion. Perhaps due to its lighter weight, the RRR just carrys more corner speed. The FW05 can be faster if you have lots of traction but otherwise RRR works better for me. I think the FW drivetrain is so free that it pushes unless you apply brake. As such, the kit comes with 10,000 rear diff oil to help turn in but at the cost of on power steering. I also like the RRR's easy access to the pinions and spurs. It seems easier to maintain than the FW.

Don't get me wrong, the FW is still great and I am keeping both and racing both.

TRAJ

Thanks D i have pm'd him

TRAJ

HI thanks

what size track do you run on? small-medium? i am having trouble with my RRR. when i give it throttle it gets very taily and annoys me i have tried soft and hard springs less camber more camber but still same thing

any idea whats wrong with it? (sorry to be off topic)

jeffreylin

First of all, I just want to answer another question you had about the FW. I run it at Revelation in LA (medium size) and Silverstone in Taipei (large size) and NEVER had problem with gearing. I use the 39T ring gear for Revelation and 37T for Silverston and 50/22 45/27 1st 2nd. I think the key is the pipe and manifold. I use the 5.2mm black kyosho pipe and manifold. I also tried the 6.0mm silver kyosho pipe and find the black one works better for both low and top end.

It's hard for me to decipher why you are having problem with your RRR with limited info given, but my set up is close to stock and it works very well. I would first check if your rear diff is working right. It sounds like it's too stiff or locking up. If the rear diff case is damaged it could lock up the gears inside. Check if it's working properly. Also what tire size are you running on the RRR? The FW should use same size tire front and rear but you should run 2mm larger rear tire on the RRR. I also find that RRR works better with smaller tires (57mm front 59mm rear) where as the FW works better with slightly bigger tires (61mm front and rear).

InitialD

Jeffrey may be right on the rear diff... What are you running? What's your complete setup? Perhaps the track you run on is pretty loose and the rear diff is still too hard. Try a softer diff silicone oil in the rear.

Have you tried more toe-in the rear?