HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#1171
Originally posted by icon
this may be a dumb question, but what is the equivalent of #1 and #2 phillips screwdriver in metric? i want some hudy tools for x mas and dont know what size to buy for my r/c cars .
this may be a dumb question, but what is the equivalent of #1 and #2 phillips screwdriver in metric? i want some hudy tools for x mas and dont know what size to buy for my r/c cars .
Hudy comes with the following metric Phillips drivers;
163540 Phillips Screwdriver 3.5 x 120 mm
164040 Phillips Screwdriver 4.0 x 120 mm
165000 Phillips Screwdriver 5.0 x 120 mm
165040 Phillips Screwdriver 5.0 x 120 mm
165840 Phillips Screwdriver 5.8 x 120 mm
The usual ones that are usually used are the 4 mm and 5 mm Phillips drivers.
Whatever it is, enjoy your Chirstmas present !
#1172
hi initial D, thanx for the info dude thats awesome! happy holidays to you too. we all know my present is gonna be R/C stuff!
already got my engine, pipe, and manifold but need some new radio equipment and tools. gonna get the R40 last .
oh yeah, congrats on achieving 5000+ posts. thats crazy dude !
one more question. anyone know what size hex driver is needed to adjust the pivot balls on R40 (and other tourers with pivot ball design) and also to tighten the hex screws that bolt the engine onto the engine mount? i need to get some ball drivers for those, cuz the standard drivers are a hassle to use for those jobs.
already got my engine, pipe, and manifold but need some new radio equipment and tools. gonna get the R40 last .
oh yeah, congrats on achieving 5000+ posts. thats crazy dude !
one more question. anyone know what size hex driver is needed to adjust the pivot balls on R40 (and other tourers with pivot ball design) and also to tighten the hex screws that bolt the engine onto the engine mount? i need to get some ball drivers for those, cuz the standard drivers are a hassle to use for those jobs.
#1174
thanx a bunch
#1175
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
No problem.
A ball wrench is definitely a must have for the engine mount screws. All the rest should be easy for a regular straight point hex driver to handle.
Fortunately, I have a 2.5mm ball hex wrench from my Yok SD kit. It should work great for the motor screws. And its like new since I never really used it for the Yok SD.
A ball wrench is definitely a must have for the engine mount screws. All the rest should be easy for a regular straight point hex driver to handle.
Fortunately, I have a 2.5mm ball hex wrench from my Yok SD kit. It should work great for the motor screws. And its like new since I never really used it for the Yok SD.
#1176
hehe, i forgot... you change cars before the season even begins !
think i need a ball allen for the 5.0mm ball retainer? cuz usually those i just a standard allen and they seem to be ok.
think i need a ball allen for the 5.0mm ball retainer? cuz usually those i just a standard allen and they seem to be ok.
#1177
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by icon
think i need a ball allen for the 5.0mm ball retainer?
think i need a ball allen for the 5.0mm ball retainer?
#1178
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Weight concerns
I read alot about the weight problems the R40 has. Well I finally mounted up an engine on mine. Its my old .12 TR.(Sirio gets here next week )
My car came in at 3lbs. 14oz -> 62oz -> 1757g
So, ummm.......wheres the weight problem? Thats less than a Team Only ReflexNT.
I still plan on going for the lightweight shafts, graphite shock towers, and maybe the HPI lightweight upper deck(just because I like the way it looks), but I think I'll pass on the $70+ lightweight super chassis. I just don't see it as being neccesary anymore now that I see for myself how much the car actually weighs RTR.
I don't know what RCCA had on the car when they came up with 1910.
My car came in at 3lbs. 14oz -> 62oz -> 1757g
So, ummm.......wheres the weight problem? Thats less than a Team Only ReflexNT.
I still plan on going for the lightweight shafts, graphite shock towers, and maybe the HPI lightweight upper deck(just because I like the way it looks), but I think I'll pass on the $70+ lightweight super chassis. I just don't see it as being neccesary anymore now that I see for myself how much the car actually weighs RTR.
I don't know what RCCA had on the car when they came up with 1910.
#1182
Well I don't know,
some battle scars look good on a car I think.
You guys ever get the "dougnut" on the side of your car? You know, that perfectly round tire mark from someone elses' car.
I love it when I get one. I think it looks sooo cooool
some battle scars look good on a car I think.
You guys ever get the "dougnut" on the side of your car? You know, that perfectly round tire mark from someone elses' car.
I love it when I get one. I think it looks sooo cooool
#1184
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I'm sure this has probably been asked before, but we're can I get Hara's setup from the Nats at? I need a direct link please.
Also, anyone have any problems with the car shifting. Mine doesn't shift at all, I tried and other people have tried everything! I'm gonna put my AE 2 speed springs in it and give it a try.
Also, anyone have any problems with the car shifting. Mine doesn't shift at all, I tried and other people have tried everything! I'm gonna put my AE 2 speed springs in it and give it a try.
#1185
check further up in this thread it was covered in some detail about 15-20 pages up. you may want to rebuild it again just to make sure it's built correctly. also if it's a new engine you may want to make sure it's fully broken in. good luck.