steven w

nice body you got there man , cool looking chrome wheels as well.
when my own car is done(i'm halfway), i'd still have to look for a cool body , and im thinking of a lola type body.
i have a question to.
what kind of engine would you advice me to get?
ofcourse i want a good/fast engine, i allready saw one, the brand was O.S. , the specs were really good, and this engine wil cost me about 180 Euros, (i live in the Netherlands ).
anyway, if you know a good engine to, let me know.
later dude.
StEvE

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

you cant go wrong with an os tz 3 or 5 port, for that kind of money you will get plenty of go

steven w

thanks dude
i will inform about it.

laTrzzz
StEvE

KYOSHORACER

Hi guys,
I just got a HPI R40 and i am having some trouble setting up the clutch, its a bit different to set-up compared to my RRR so could you guys please tell me how jou guys run the clutch as in spring tension spacing and all that.

Thanks

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

For clutch gap I use 2 bronze shims and 2 silver ones alternating. Ofcourse the final result depends on whether or not you need/have installed a .5mm shim behind the collet on the engine shaft. Adjuster nut setting varies, but I usually start from stock and tune from there. I haven't found the stock R40 clutch to be an issue IMO.

All- The R40 I received is now ready for testing again. I will see if I have time to paint the Lola body that also came with it and run the RX8 as well. Maybe the LW 2speed can be purchased with some parts for a good price. For now though I may just start with some spare parts as that is the wiser decision. The LW can wait since the stock setup is sufficient. Now the main issue is whether I can get the TR to run with the R5 plug on 30%.

KYOSHORACER

Thanks for the reply konnen, i was wandering if you could please tell me in mm not by the colour of the shims thanks.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

No prob. Its the 4 x 6 x 2.5 (copper) (2), and the 4 x 6 x .3mm (silver) .

Man it's such a debate as to what to get for the R40 first before my next paycheck...a bunch of spare parts...or jump on the LW 2speed (hopefully a discount and then some spares. I'd really only need an nother pack with the arm or so. That LW 2speed is still got my name on it since no one wants it. still looking for a really strong motor to slap into this car.

Rapid Roy

This method get me really close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR




When you have the whole clutch together you should have the .6mm of end play.





Uhhmmm... close but not quite right. Endplay is different from clutch gap.
When the entire clutch is together, ready to run, you should have barely any endplay (0.1mm). However, there should be a 0.6mm clutch gap between the clutch shoe and the endbell.

If you perform the assembly/shimming in the following order, the clutch gap should be fine, the end play should be minimal, and there is no way that the clutchbell will be pressing against the clutch shoe.

1. Install the following:
0.5mm washer behind flywheel cone -- tapered cone -- flywheel -- flywheel nut -- flyweights -- clutch shoe rear plate -- clutch shoe -- spring cup (in clutch shoe) -- tension spring -- spring preload collar -- clutchbell w/ outermost ballbearing -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw. You leave OUT the following: innermost ballbearing in clutchbell, and small spacer between ballbearings.

2. Set clutch gap to 0.6mm -- using shims on thrustbearing collar.

3. Remove the following:
Machine screw -- thrustbearing assembly -- clutchbell.

4. Install the following:
Innermost ballbearing (on crankshaft) -- small spacer -- clutchbell (with outermost ballbearing in it) -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw.
Make sure you use good grease in the thrustbearing, every time you work on it. Mugen Super Grease is VERY good... it's very thick, lubes well, and lasts a long time.

5. Check the END PLAY... this is the amount that the clutchbell moves on the crankshaft. There should be barely any movement along the crankshaft (0.1mm) but the clutchbell should have some play. It should not be locked in place on the crankshaft, as this puts pressure on bearings and will cause dragging and premature wear/failure.

6. To adjust the end play, you will use the tiny, thin-wall shims. Remove the clutchbell and all bearings (and spacers) (as an assembly), and put these tiny shims on the crankshaft right atop the flywheel nut. Then re-assemble everything and check again.

7. When everything is back together, hold the motor so the crankshaft is pointing at the ground, and spin the clutchbell... it should spin freely (for more than 5sec)... but this depends also on the heaviness of the grease you use in the thrustbearing. If the clutchbell doesn't spin well but seems to bind, you may not have enough endplay or the bearings may be bad.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Today was a really great day at the track. I honestly managed to get a 100% feeling of the car bone stock. TO my surprise, it really wasn't that much off at all from my r40 with upgrades. Running the car with no front droop definately gives it a lot of steering, but doesn't quite allow me to corner as hard. With the droop I can corner harder even with the slipper tires, but off throttle I have less steering. I have the stock clutch setup in stock form and it works really great. The adjuster nut could use a bit more tightening, but wasn't much of an issue. At this point the decision to add the LW gears, shafts, oneway, etc is a really tough choice. The car is quite fast with the OS .12TR and it wasn't even really leaned out as much. Regardless I may like a slightly faster motor such as an RS12, but for the price I might as well get the OS .12TZ. For the moment the car will be ran stock and the Hudy gauges will be purchases later on as well as parts. I easily ran with my friend's MTX4 with RB X12 around the track, but he did have a little more top end that mine. Time to let the R40 sit while I prepare an order list for the LHS guys. I'll actually invest in stronger pivot balls since these snapped rather easily. I'd rather see them snap through the knuckle than snap completely. Great day, great fun, great box stock R40.

CraigH

Any one know the internal gear ratio?

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

I am not sue where to find this? I do not even think that the manual mentioned anything about it..

PoPRC

Hi,
Ok I got a great deal on an R40 a couple of weeks back ( I posted pics of it a couple of pages back). Now I am getting ready to run it, it's bone stock. But I seem to have a leaky front diff. Now according to the guy who sold it to me, it was ran only three times, and I believe the guy because the car is damn clean. Now what would cause the diff to leak. A bad crash, not put together right, etc, etc? I want to take it apart and fix it before I run it so I don't do further damage. But I dont just want to rip into it without knowing what I should be looking for so I fix it properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Rapid Roy

The most common cause of a leaky diff is overtightening of the 4 small screws that hold the diff together. They just need to be snug. You can dissassemble the diff, and put a small drop of CA into each screw hole. Wait a couple of minutes and reassemble. Before doing this, seal the diff halfs with a thin layer of RTV on both sided of the gasket.

PoPRC

Thanks Roy,
The CA i assume will help the screws remain snug then?

Rapid Roy

yup!