HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#3858
Originally posted by Thad Garner
0mm bump stop basically means that we didn’t use the set screw to limit the up travel of the suspension, only the down travel (droop/rebound stop) see attached picture.
0mm bump stop basically means that we didn’t use the set screw to limit the up travel of the suspension, only the down travel (droop/rebound stop) see attached picture.
Thanks for the clarification. Do all HPI team drivers write their setup sheets that way? i.e. measure droop from the hub carrier, as opposed to the ballstud mount as indicated in the setup sheet.
#3859
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Belts and Pulleys
Originally posted by AMGRacer
You serious? The 3 belt change should take 20 minutes tops!
You serious? The 3 belt change should take 20 minutes tops!
Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.
#3860
Tech Regular
Re: Thad:
Originally posted by jscamry
what is the part number for the hpi - Aluminum suspension spacers.
Thanks Jason
what is the part number for the hpi - Aluminum suspension spacers.
Thanks Jason
Z814 - .75mm
Z815 – 1.0mm
Z816 – 1.5mm
Z817 – 2.0mm
Z818 – 2.5mm
Z819 – 3.0mm
#3861
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Belts and Pulleys
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Then you are very fast builder..........there is no way I can remove all the stuff including engine and pipe, then the bulkhead, then take the belt off, put the belt on, put the bulkhead back on, put the engine and pipe on, and do the setting in 20 minutes....if I can finish that in 3 hours, that is fast for me...
Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.
Then you are very fast builder..........there is no way I can remove all the stuff including engine and pipe, then the bulkhead, then take the belt off, put the belt on, put the bulkhead back on, put the engine and pipe on, and do the setting in 20 minutes....if I can finish that in 3 hours, that is fast for me...
Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.
The rear bulkhead has 9 screws you need to remove, pop off the shocks and the bulkhead top lifts away. You get get the layshaft out with a bit of wiggling, or just loosen the 4 motor screws. Rear belt is out. Should not take you too long, and the motor can stay in place............
#3862
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Belts and Pulleys
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.
Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.
#3863
Hey Thad I noticed that Hara did not use a large fuel filter this time. Has the fuel tank size been increased sufficiently now?
Also why does Hara move the receiver to the servo side of the car? If it is for balance then the same could be achieved with some lead weight as the RX units is pretty light.........
Oh yeah, do you have any insights into the new belts? I remember the old Racer 2 had optional urethane belts which I used and actually found them more prone to damage............
Also why does Hara move the receiver to the servo side of the car? If it is for balance then the same could be achieved with some lead weight as the RX units is pretty light.........
Oh yeah, do you have any insights into the new belts? I remember the old Racer 2 had optional urethane belts which I used and actually found them more prone to damage............
#3864
Tech Regular
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Hey Thad I noticed that Hara did not use a large fuel filter this time. Has the fuel tank size been increased sufficiently now?
Also why does Hara move the receiver to the servo side of the car? If it is for balance then the same could be achieved with some lead weight as the RX units is pretty light.........
Oh yeah, do you have any insights into the new belts? I remember the old Racer 2 had optional urethane belts which I used and actually found them more prone to damage............
Hey Thad I noticed that Hara did not use a large fuel filter this time. Has the fuel tank size been increased sufficiently now?
Also why does Hara move the receiver to the servo side of the car? If it is for balance then the same could be achieved with some lead weight as the RX units is pretty light.........
Oh yeah, do you have any insights into the new belts? I remember the old Racer 2 had optional urethane belts which I used and actually found them more prone to damage............
-I think he runs his RX on that side merely for convenience. He shortens all his wires so they plug directly in without bundling. Also he doesn’t run a switch so it makes plugging in a snap.
-I haven’t received the new belts yet.
#3865
Tech Regular
Originally posted by boom
Thad,
Thanks for the clarification. Do all HPI team drivers write their setup sheets that way? i.e. measure droop from the hub carrier, as opposed to the ballstud mount as indicated in the setup sheet.
Thad,
Thanks for the clarification. Do all HPI team drivers write their setup sheets that way? i.e. measure droop from the hub carrier, as opposed to the ballstud mount as indicated in the setup sheet.
#3866
Originally posted by Thad Garner
-Yes, the tank is a almost 75cc. Last year it was less then 73. I just kept going back and forth between tech adding more fuel line until it was exact. But remember, the tank expands probably .5cc during running so a quick spray down with some motor spray before post race tech always helps…just to be safe.
-I think he runs his RX on that side merely for convenience. He shortens all his wires so they plug directly in without bundling. Also he doesn’t run a switch so it makes plugging in a snap.
-I haven’t received the new belts yet.
-Yes, the tank is a almost 75cc. Last year it was less then 73. I just kept going back and forth between tech adding more fuel line until it was exact. But remember, the tank expands probably .5cc during running so a quick spray down with some motor spray before post race tech always helps…just to be safe.
-I think he runs his RX on that side merely for convenience. He shortens all his wires so they plug directly in without bundling. Also he doesn’t run a switch so it makes plugging in a snap.
-I haven’t received the new belts yet.
I also noticed that Hara was running the stock 2004 top deck, not this one:
Any particular reason to have 2 seperate "lightweight" top decks? It seems that the "new" one has a bit more material in it.
Also Hara was running the Orion "Fresh Kicks"? Any particular reason, or he was running a sponsors tire?
#3867
Sorry Thad,
Another question, do you know whether Hara balances his tires? This is something I have thought about but I am unsure whether it is worth it..................
Another question, do you know whether Hara balances his tires? This is something I have thought about but I am unsure whether it is worth it..................
#3868
Tech Regular
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Cool
I also noticed that Hara was running the stock 2004 top deck, not this one:
Any particular reason to have 2 seperate "lightweight" top decks? It seems that the "new" one has a bit more material in it.
Also Hara was running the Orion "Fresh Kicks"? Any particular reason, or he was running a sponsors tire?
Cool
I also noticed that Hara was running the stock 2004 top deck, not this one:
Any particular reason to have 2 seperate "lightweight" top decks? It seems that the "new" one has a bit more material in it.
Also Hara was running the Orion "Fresh Kicks"? Any particular reason, or he was running a sponsors tire?
-We tried many different tires and the Orion tires just worked best. HPI, Orion and CRC tires all use the same foam supplier, so it comes down to wheel flex. The Orion wheel has the most amount of wheel flex.
- I have tried balancing in the past and haven’t seen/felt any difference. It isn’t necessary.
#3869
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Belts and Pulleys
Originally posted by AMGRacer
The front bulkhead comes out with 6 screws, pop a linkage from the steering off lift out the bellcranks and you can remove the first belt. Put the middle belt on while you have the layshaft out.
The rear bulkhead has 9 screws you need to remove, pop off the shocks and the bulkhead top lifts away. You get get the layshaft out with a bit of wiggling, or just loosen the 4 motor screws. Rear belt is out. Should not take you too long, and the motor can stay in place............
The front bulkhead comes out with 6 screws, pop a linkage from the steering off lift out the bellcranks and you can remove the first belt. Put the middle belt on while you have the layshaft out.
The rear bulkhead has 9 screws you need to remove, pop off the shocks and the bulkhead top lifts away. You get get the layshaft out with a bit of wiggling, or just loosen the 4 motor screws. Rear belt is out. Should not take you too long, and the motor can stay in place............
Not to mention, I have TV, DVD, internet, BABY, wife and a lot of stuff around me while I am rubbing my R40...that take extra times, LOL.