HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
06-28-2004, 06:32 PM
#3316
Tech Adept
what brand?... mugen?
06-28-2004, 09:47 PM
#3317
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You are talking about the MUGEN RED clutch shoes....? Or the one from the ebay...? (I think they are from Delta)
You are talking about the MUGEN RED clutch shoes....? Or the one from the ebay...? (I think they are from Delta)
06-29-2004, 08:23 AM
#3319
Originally posted by OB42TC3
I have found several things with the clutch.
1. You most likely need to put shims between the inside bearing and the sg nut to keep the bell from rubbing the shoe.
2.Clearance to the chassis cutout for the flywheel, on some of my engines I had to remove the big washer behind the collet other wise the outside of the bell will hit the chassis= slip
This can also happen if the motor is aligned too far to the gear side. I think this has been my problem all along, but in the process I learned the fine points of setting up a Centax.
3. The red clutch shoe as with most cars is better than the slip prone black stuff
If assembled right the clutch is supposed to be great; it's nearly identical to the Mugen's.
I have found several things with the clutch.
1. You most likely need to put shims between the inside bearing and the sg nut to keep the bell from rubbing the shoe.
2.Clearance to the chassis cutout for the flywheel, on some of my engines I had to remove the big washer behind the collet other wise the outside of the bell will hit the chassis= slip
This can also happen if the motor is aligned too far to the gear side. I think this has been my problem all along, but in the process I learned the fine points of setting up a Centax.
3. The red clutch shoe as with most cars is better than the slip prone black stuff
If assembled right the clutch is supposed to be great; it's nearly identical to the Mugen's.
(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.
(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....
Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)
I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....
06-29-2004, 10:00 AM
#3320
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I was starting to build the clutch last night....and I have to agree, the stock setting of the clutch (per manuel) is not even close to the GOOD setting of the centax..........
(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.
(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....
Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)
I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....
I was starting to build the clutch last night....and I have to agree, the stock setting of the clutch (per manuel) is not even close to the GOOD setting of the centax..........
(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.
(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....
Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)
I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....
thanks Jason
06-29-2004, 10:47 AM
#3321
Originally posted by jscamry
which red shoes are you speaking of? are they the mugen ones?
thanks Jason
which red shoes are you speaking of? are they the mugen ones?
thanks Jason
06-29-2004, 01:11 PM
#3323
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
OB42TC3 already said it....it is the one from DELTA, you can see that on ebay, they are like $12 each. (keyword: Clutch shoe)...but I am sure the MUGEN one are as good...anything but the stock HPI black one....(if you have the chance to get a better shoe)...
OB42TC3 already said it....it is the one from DELTA, you can see that on ebay, they are like $12 each. (keyword: Clutch shoe)...but I am sure the MUGEN one are as good...anything but the stock HPI black one....(if you have the chance to get a better shoe)...
-jason
06-29-2004, 10:49 PM
#3324
Whats the Cheapest Place to buy R40 parts im maily looking for the one way.
06-30-2004, 06:28 AM
#3325
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
OB42TC3 already said it....it is the one from DELTA, you can see that on ebay, they are like $12 each. (keyword: Clutch shoe)...but I am sure the MUGEN one are as good...anything but the stock HPI black one....(if you have the chance to get a better shoe)...
OB42TC3 already said it....it is the one from DELTA, you can see that on ebay, they are like $12 each. (keyword: Clutch shoe)...but I am sure the MUGEN one are as good...anything but the stock HPI black one....(if you have the chance to get a better shoe)...
I found the grey Murgen shoes (Part# H0765) and the Red Murgen Shoes (Part# H0769) at my LHS. The grey ones are AU$14.90 and the red ones are AU$49.99!!!!!
Damned if I can find either on line for the right price so I got a grey set to try out.
Last edited by BF; 06-30-2004 at 06:38 AM.
06-30-2004, 10:48 AM
#3326
Tech Master
Originally posted by BF
So are these Red DELTA shoes different from the Murgen Red Shoes?
I found the grey Murgen shoes (Part# H0765) and the Red Murgen Shoes (Part# H0769) at my LHS. The grey ones are AU$14.90 and the red ones are AU$49.99!!!!!
Damned if I can find either on line for the right price so I got a grey set to try out.
So are these Red DELTA shoes different from the Murgen Red Shoes?
I found the grey Murgen shoes (Part# H0765) and the Red Murgen Shoes (Part# H0769) at my LHS. The grey ones are AU$14.90 and the red ones are AU$49.99!!!!!
Damned if I can find either on line for the right price so I got a grey set to try out.
06-30-2004, 03:01 PM
#3327
Originally posted by nsxshogun
Whats the Cheapest Place to buy R40 parts im maily looking for the one way.
Whats the Cheapest Place to buy R40 parts im maily looking for the one way.
06-30-2004, 04:50 PM
#3328
Originally posted by BF
So are these Red DELTA shoes different from the Murgen Red Shoes?
I found the grey Murgen shoes (Part# H0765) and the Red Murgen Shoes (Part# H0769) at my LHS. The grey ones are AU$14.90 and the red ones are AU$49.99!!!!!
Damned if I can find either on line for the right price so I got a grey set to try out.
So are these Red DELTA shoes different from the Murgen Red Shoes?
I found the grey Murgen shoes (Part# H0765) and the Red Murgen Shoes (Part# H0769) at my LHS. The grey ones are AU$14.90 and the red ones are AU$49.99!!!!!
Damned if I can find either on line for the right price so I got a grey set to try out.
The Grey ones work nicely, but have less punch than the Red shoes, but to get it to slide on the pins properly you will need to ream the holes a bit. I posted a picture of this a few months ago.
If you are running your car at Brendale you should definately get the red ones, the cost me around AUD$15 from Delta. Most other local tracks will be fine with the grey shoes.
06-30-2004, 04:58 PM
#3329
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I was starting to build the clutch last night....and I have to agree, the stock setting of the clutch (per manuel) is not even close to the GOOD setting of the centax..........
(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.
(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....
Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)
I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....
I was starting to build the clutch last night....and I have to agree, the stock setting of the clutch (per manuel) is not even close to the GOOD setting of the centax..........
(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.
(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....
Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)
I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....
Delta Red shoes
Kyosho Bronze colour spring - FW16
A heap of Mugen shims (or any other shims will work)
1. Assemble the clutch without the unner bearing. Pull the clutch housing away from the shoe. Measure the gap between the housing and the shoe. This the the clutch gap. You want it between 0.4-0.6mm in my setup.
2. Put the inner bearing back in place. Add shims between this bearing and the clutch nut until there is almost no float. 0.1mm or less.
3. Set the adjuster nut to 1.4mm.
This setup gives awesome clutch response, and also is far easier on the clutch bearings. I have posted previously that I had bearing failures, I have had no failures since I have been using this setup.
06-30-2004, 05:35 PM
#3330
Tech Elite
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. Assemble the clutch without the unner bearing. Pull the clutch housing away from the shoe. Measure the gap between the housing and the shoe. This the the clutch gap. You want it between 0.4-0.6mm in my setup.