HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#2791
Originally posted by Proteus
Now that I 've had about a month's worth or running this car, there's a couple things that I would like HPI to add or redesign.
5) A lighter flywheel or smaller diameter flywheel with corresponding engine mounts which would allow us to lower the CG of the car. Also a revised endbell to allow the use of a bigger bearing (the flanged one) near the thrust bearing. I go through too many bearings and thrust bearings; almost one a race day. NCC had problems with his clutch the weekend before. As for installation of the clutch....I set my clutch up with zero endplay, so I don't understand why they fail. I also set my clutch to engage early as well. I've got about may half a thread showing which is more than enough punch. I also grease the thrust bearing twice a race day; after practice/before the qualifiers and before the main.
7) More durable belts. I hope they come out with the Kevlar type. I'm going through a rear belt a raceday...to the point where my 19t pulley is literally flattened.
JB
Now that I 've had about a month's worth or running this car, there's a couple things that I would like HPI to add or redesign.
5) A lighter flywheel or smaller diameter flywheel with corresponding engine mounts which would allow us to lower the CG of the car. Also a revised endbell to allow the use of a bigger bearing (the flanged one) near the thrust bearing. I go through too many bearings and thrust bearings; almost one a race day. NCC had problems with his clutch the weekend before. As for installation of the clutch....I set my clutch up with zero endplay, so I don't understand why they fail. I also set my clutch to engage early as well. I've got about may half a thread showing which is more than enough punch. I also grease the thrust bearing twice a race day; after practice/before the qualifiers and before the main.
7) More durable belts. I hope they come out with the Kevlar type. I'm going through a rear belt a raceday...to the point where my 19t pulley is literally flattened.
JB
Again my belts are perfect. What exactly is happening to them? Why is the pulley flattened?
#2792
Originally posted by goldenboy
you werent able to use the suspenion arm anymore, were you??
you werent able to use the suspenion arm anymore, were you??
#2793
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Except for cleaning,my car has been maintenance free....from bearings to belts......and I have over 2 gallons through it...and the car is run hard....
Can't wait to get those ti balls....with the weight savings,my car will be under 1700 grams...
Can't wait to get those ti balls....with the weight savings,my car will be under 1700 grams...
#2794
<<Depends, here are some scenarios.
You enter a sweeper, everything seems ok. Turn -in was smooth, cornering grip seems to par, you start accelerating coming out of the sweeper and your car goes loose and spins out.
Solution:
Since your car has adequate turn-in response and grip off power it would tend to indicate that your camber, caster, and toe settings are correct. The problem is induced when you start to accelerate. This would tell me that it is a weight induced oversteer. This means that the acceleration momentum is placing to much weight on the outer rear tire causing it to break loose. To solve this I would stiffen the rear suspension or add a rear roll bar.>>
AMGRacer: My problem isnt so extreme as for the car to spin out, it just takes a bit of countersteer to correct the car's tail from swinging to and fro..
I'm not sure this will help.. I'm running on an extremely dusty parking lot (firehose and such .. ), i just refilled the rear shocks with 50 wt, I have mugen 60wt upfront.
Also I positioned the rear shocks as vertical as possible.
Is this a bad idea? -Solomon
You enter a sweeper, everything seems ok. Turn -in was smooth, cornering grip seems to par, you start accelerating coming out of the sweeper and your car goes loose and spins out.
Solution:
Since your car has adequate turn-in response and grip off power it would tend to indicate that your camber, caster, and toe settings are correct. The problem is induced when you start to accelerate. This would tell me that it is a weight induced oversteer. This means that the acceleration momentum is placing to much weight on the outer rear tire causing it to break loose. To solve this I would stiffen the rear suspension or add a rear roll bar.>>
AMGRacer: My problem isnt so extreme as for the car to spin out, it just takes a bit of countersteer to correct the car's tail from swinging to and fro..
I'm not sure this will help.. I'm running on an extremely dusty parking lot (firehose and such .. ), i just refilled the rear shocks with 50 wt, I have mugen 60wt upfront.
Also I positioned the rear shocks as vertical as possible.
Is this a bad idea? -Solomon
#2795
Originally posted by fastharry
Except for cleaning,my car has been maintenance free....from bearings to belts......and I have over 2 gallons through it...and the car is run hard....
Can't wait to get those ti balls....with the weight savings,my car will be under 1700 grams...
Except for cleaning,my car has been maintenance free....from bearings to belts......and I have over 2 gallons through it...and the car is run hard....
Can't wait to get those ti balls....with the weight savings,my car will be under 1700 grams...
I am in total agreement with your statement.. after my initial quirks with the car, I have been maintenance free, besides cleaning..
Heck, even my front belt is frayed and its been frayed for the past month of hard running, on a broken up parking lot, ousting the competition!
What body shell you running? My Supra is starting to show its signs of squirrel-ass syndrome
edit: hey you hit 1337 posts..
#2796
Originally posted by tranced
<<Depends, here are some scenarios.
You enter a sweeper, everything seems ok. Turn -in was smooth, cornering grip seems to par, you start accelerating coming out of the sweeper and your car goes loose and spins out.
Solution:
Since your car has adequate turn-in response and grip off power it would tend to indicate that your camber, caster, and toe settings are correct. The problem is induced when you start to accelerate. This would tell me that it is a weight induced oversteer. This means that the acceleration momentum is placing to much weight on the outer rear tire causing it to break loose. To solve this I would stiffen the rear suspension or add a rear roll bar.>>
AMGRacer: My problem isnt so extreme as for the car to spin out, it just takes a bit of countersteer to correct the car's tail from swinging to and fro..
I'm not sure this will help.. I'm running on an extremely dusty parking lot (firehose and such .. ), i just refilled the rear shocks with 50 wt, I have mugen 60wt upfront.
Also I positioned the rear shocks as vertical as possible.
Is this a bad idea? -Solomon
<<Depends, here are some scenarios.
You enter a sweeper, everything seems ok. Turn -in was smooth, cornering grip seems to par, you start accelerating coming out of the sweeper and your car goes loose and spins out.
Solution:
Since your car has adequate turn-in response and grip off power it would tend to indicate that your camber, caster, and toe settings are correct. The problem is induced when you start to accelerate. This would tell me that it is a weight induced oversteer. This means that the acceleration momentum is placing to much weight on the outer rear tire causing it to break loose. To solve this I would stiffen the rear suspension or add a rear roll bar.>>
AMGRacer: My problem isnt so extreme as for the car to spin out, it just takes a bit of countersteer to correct the car's tail from swinging to and fro..
I'm not sure this will help.. I'm running on an extremely dusty parking lot (firehose and such .. ), i just refilled the rear shocks with 50 wt, I have mugen 60wt upfront.
Also I positioned the rear shocks as vertical as possible.
Is this a bad idea? -Solomon
If your rear is too soft it will spin when you accelerate since your rear outside tire gets overloaded. If your rear is too hard it will spin when you accelerate since your outside rear and rear in general does not have enough weight over it.
Also increasing rear camber can increase rear sidebite.
If your track is dusty then you will have trouble getting foams to hook up well. Try some traction compound. Also Japanese rubber has been shown to work better in dusty conditions.
#2797
Great.. the local LHS sells pre-mounted Sorex/Speedline rubbers.. hopefully those will do much beter.. thanks again!
#2798
The rear end will come around if your rear diff is too tight as well.
#2799
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
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Originally posted by tranced
Hey fastharry!! You've met adlawoo correct?
I am in total agreement with your statement.. after my initial quirks with the car, I have been maintenance free, besides cleaning..
Heck, even my front belt is frayed and its been frayed for the past month of hard running, on a broken up parking lot, ousting the competition!
What body shell you running? My Supra is starting to show its signs of squirrel-ass syndrome
edit: hey you hit 1337 posts..
Hey fastharry!! You've met adlawoo correct?
I am in total agreement with your statement.. after my initial quirks with the car, I have been maintenance free, besides cleaning..
Heck, even my front belt is frayed and its been frayed for the past month of hard running, on a broken up parking lot, ousting the competition!
What body shell you running? My Supra is starting to show its signs of squirrel-ass syndrome
edit: hey you hit 1337 posts..
I ran the HPI Aero 2 stratus body for the first time last night..
HPI did a GREAT job with that body..fits the r40 perfect....runs really well......
#2800
proteus im surprised your killing the belts so quickly must be all that hp you got mine are still the original belts
i set the belts on my car very loose to reduce drag and so far except for some minor frays (which i burn off with a lighter) my belts have held up surprisingly well (the side belt stretched after a couple tanks but hasnt again since adjusting)
if you wanna smaller clutch/flywheel/mount set-up get a kawahara micro clutch (if i was made of money i'd get 1)
and if you want some pivot balls that wont bend for less than the cost of titanium mtx3 pivot balls work perfectly
fast harry i would love to see some pictures of your car
i set the belts on my car very loose to reduce drag and so far except for some minor frays (which i burn off with a lighter) my belts have held up surprisingly well (the side belt stretched after a couple tanks but hasnt again since adjusting)
if you wanna smaller clutch/flywheel/mount set-up get a kawahara micro clutch (if i was made of money i'd get 1)
and if you want some pivot balls that wont bend for less than the cost of titanium mtx3 pivot balls work perfectly
fast harry i would love to see some pictures of your car
#2801
Anyone in the US have a 2004 spec R40? If so, where did you get it and for how much?
#2802
Tech Fanatic
I have one. I bought it from RC Champ in Akihabara Japan. If your interested please pm me. I may be able to help you.
JB
JB
#2803
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fast harry i would love to see some pictures of your car
Last edited by fastharry™; 05-13-2004 at 08:11 PM.
#2804
Originally posted by fastharry
#2805
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how do I do that?...you mean you can't see the image?..
Last edited by fastharry™; 05-13-2004 at 08:40 PM.