Aurra Sing

I haven't tried it myself yet, but I think by switching uprights (left:c2, right:c1) will raise the front roll center. Meaning you will have more aggressive turn-in/off-power steering, less turn-out/on-power.

Merciless

Front notice the block and all the weights around the steering posts

Merciless

rear again the brass block and weights either side of chassis

Merciless

You can now see the weights between the servo and speedo if you look closely.....there are aot of added weights on my car

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Merciless, Nice pics, Did you add spacers under the camber links at the bulkhead mounting locations? How does it help the car?

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone post pics of 3x3 batteries in the car? I'm interested in what types of connectors were used and wiring. I would like to be able to use the 3 x 3 batteries in this car and also use them in a TC3 by putting the packs end to end.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I switched the hubs around and love it. Gives me the steering I need for our tight technical turns. When I first started back into RC I ran a "forgiving" setup where I would used the whole lock to lock steering on my radio/car. Now I want all the steering I can get while learning to just make small movements on my wheel/radio to take all my turns and lock to lock on the radio only if I get into a "predicament." Seems to make for a fast car for me like this. Anyhow, I tried the switch and liked it. If you want to run switched hubs, you can always setup the car around this to get the steering you need. Play with Rear Toe, camber, and stuff like that.

imataquito

i tried both and the switched one seemed to slow down the car ...
i dont have batts with me now so i cant try
will try again someday .... hm .... so all it does is gives a harder push coming out of turns and gives more stearing off power ...
could be useful ...

imataquito

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=250644

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=250648

check the links out .... pics of my car where the stearing linkage is modified so the reciever sits directly under it with 2 doubble sided tape - without mods the 2 tapes wont fit with reciever

.... also u can see the conectors dave .....


kilruf ..... eehhhh
i will love a more sensitive stearing ...

rccarracer

Here is an old pic of my car......
Still wire the car the same but now have a Novak TC2 and KO Propo receiver is under the steering bellcranks....

rccarracer

Can't really tell in the pic, but I'm using the corally type connectors.
Also, on my batts, the middle jumper wire is the same length as a battery bar, meaning less resistance and if I want to run my MR-4 TC Special I don't need to re-solder or change the way I place the cells in my special, so the jumper doesn't get in the way of the belt etc.....
This is how I'd do it if you also want to run your TC3....

Casey

iTrader: (5)

Any of you guys try spacing the front arms to the back creating a shorter wheel base,
If so what was the result for you

Casey

Merciless

Deves


Cool Page http://www.rctek.com/handling/

Right as for the spacers to a point and i stress that.......raiseing them on the bulk head should increase grip......i think

Merciless

Deves


Cool Page http://www.rctek.com/handling/

Right as for the spacers to a point and i stress that.......raiseing them on the bulk head should increase grip......i think

teamatlas

iTrader: (2)

what is a good body for the tcs race and tires ?? im planning to run it but need a body or can i run any body????also what rims can i use.. thanks
TEAMATLAS