Tekin RS ESC sensored
04-08-2010, 08:03 AM
Tech Regular
My statement about the wires assembly is totally missed by some.
I am surprised that the 13.5t rules ROAR/EFRA/NOMAC are set-up with 2 differend thickness of wires
04-08-2010, 08:25 AM
No, your comment on the wires is not missed and I totally agree, but I'm not in the position to change the rules. I hope some people in the ERFA/NOMAC take some actions for the rules next year
04-08-2010, 02:49 PM
Can someone respond to my? This is why I mainly run 10 scale and 8 scale onroad nitro. Every year they are changeing the classes and rules to cater to the cry babbies
last time I checked this is still racing if you can't keep up or afford a certain class move down to a slower one or just quit all together
electric racers remind me of the whiny low talent female Indy racer see hasn't won anything yet but see gets more attention then the guys who finished on the podium
last time I checked this is still racing if you can't keep up or afford a certain class move down to a slower one or just quit all together electric racers remind me of the whiny low talent female Indy racer see hasn't won anything yet but see gets more attention then the guys who finished on the podium
04-08-2010, 04:00 PM
Tech Regular
On this tyres the time set by you and others are impressive.
About the motor wires, if nobody tackled the problem, nobody will take any action.
It is not a stupid rule for the time the rule is made, but with the advanced Speedo's from present day's it is not working in a proper way.
I've never come up with this issue untill I cooked my motor SP13.5 v.3.0
on a temp just above 32 degr.C and a brandnew one after four laps.
Last edited by eded1; 04-08-2010 at 04:19 PM.
04-08-2010, 05:34 PM
Reposting this for Hebiki
To save myself from sending so many PM's, yes I have successfully been running an LRP x12 17.5 in TC on asphalt and carpet rubber tires. Of course, like most you will only use part of it or you'll try to adapt it to your 5.6FDR and come back and say it doesn't work for you...LOL (j/k Dusttt)
LRP x12 17.5
FDR- 6.8 to 7.2 for asphalt, I stayed with 7.2 on carpet
motor- x-10 insert
tekin profile-4
drag brk-10
neutral width-14
boost-45
turbo-9
ramp 2 or 3- with slow turns / heavy low RPM loads 3 will fade
delay- .2 or .3- faster ur entering straight, earlier u can bring it in
start RPM- 5000
end RPM- 13000 - 15000 (alter this to help control heat. lower= faster boost increase / little more heat)
ALWAYS check ur temp at the 2 or 3 minute mark with x12 motors on first run or after any change. They aren't all the same and some get hotter much quicker. Some may like 1 or 2 teeth less, some may like up to 3 or 4 teeth more- u have to find that out on your own, but shoot for around 198F (or less) with no fan after 6 min. I practice/tune with turbo on 8 and ramp 2. Temps are 155-160 outdoors w/no fan. When I'm in that range I know I can turn the turbo up a bump and or increase ramp, run the fan and I'm golden.
Last quick tip- if you're having trouble with the turbo coming in while in the infield and giving you a "shot" that messes u up for the next turn, do like Obama and rob Peter to pay Paul by adding 3 or 4 to your boost and taking away 2 or 3 from your turbo. You can also move the delay up or down one tenth. I would much rather give up 1 car length on the back straight than give up 3 or 4 because I overshoot a certain infield turn every time.
To save myself from sending so many PM's, yes I have successfully been running an LRP x12 17.5 in TC on asphalt and carpet rubber tires. Of course, like most you will only use part of it or you'll try to adapt it to your 5.6FDR and come back and say it doesn't work for you...LOL (j/k Dusttt)
LRP x12 17.5
FDR- 6.8 to 7.2 for asphalt, I stayed with 7.2 on carpet
motor- x-10 insert
tekin profile-4
drag brk-10
neutral width-14
boost-45
turbo-9
ramp 2 or 3- with slow turns / heavy low RPM loads 3 will fade
delay- .2 or .3- faster ur entering straight, earlier u can bring it in
start RPM- 5000
end RPM- 13000 - 15000 (alter this to help control heat. lower= faster boost increase / little more heat)
ALWAYS check ur temp at the 2 or 3 minute mark with x12 motors on first run or after any change. They aren't all the same and some get hotter much quicker. Some may like 1 or 2 teeth less, some may like up to 3 or 4 teeth more- u have to find that out on your own, but shoot for around 198F (or less) with no fan after 6 min. I practice/tune with turbo on 8 and ramp 2. Temps are 155-160 outdoors w/no fan. When I'm in that range I know I can turn the turbo up a bump and or increase ramp, run the fan and I'm golden.
Last quick tip- if you're having trouble with the turbo coming in while in the infield and giving you a "shot" that messes u up for the next turn, do like Obama and rob Peter to pay Paul by adding 3 or 4 to your boost and taking away 2 or 3 from your turbo. You can also move the delay up or down one tenth. I would much rather give up 1 car length on the back straight than give up 3 or 4 because I overshoot a certain infield turn every time.
04-08-2010, 08:54 PM
Reposting this for Hebiki
To save myself from sending so many PM's, yes I have successfully been running an LRP x12 17.5 in TC on asphalt and carpet rubber tires. Of course, like most you will only use part of it or you'll try to adapt it to your 5.6FDR and come back and say it doesn't work for you...LOL (j/k Dusttt)
LRP x12 17.5
FDR- 6.8 to 7.2 for asphalt, I stayed with 7.2 on carpet
motor- x-10 insert
tekin profile-4
drag brk-10
neutral width-14
boost-45
turbo-9
ramp 2 or 3- with slow turns / heavy low RPM loads 3 will fade
delay- .2 or .3- faster ur entering straight, earlier u can bring it in
start RPM- 5000
end RPM- 13000 - 15000 (alter this to help control heat. lower= faster boost increase / little more heat)
ALWAYS check ur temp at the 2 or 3 minute mark with x12 motors on first run or after any change. They aren't all the same and some get hotter much quicker. Some may like 1 or 2 teeth less, some may like up to 3 or 4 teeth more- u have to find that out on your own, but shoot for around 198F (or less) with no fan after 6 min. I practice/tune with turbo on 8 and ramp 2. Temps are 155-160 outdoors w/no fan. When I'm in that range I know I can turn the turbo up a bump and or increase ramp, run the fan and I'm golden.
Last quick tip- if you're having trouble with the turbo coming in while in the infield and giving you a "shot" that messes u up for the next turn, do like Obama and rob Peter to pay Paul by adding 3 or 4 to your boost and taking away 2 or 3 from your turbo. You can also move the delay up or down one tenth. I would much rather give up 1 car length on the back straight than give up 3 or 4 because I overshoot a certain infield turn every time.
To save myself from sending so many PM's, yes I have successfully been running an LRP x12 17.5 in TC on asphalt and carpet rubber tires. Of course, like most you will only use part of it or you'll try to adapt it to your 5.6FDR and come back and say it doesn't work for you...LOL (j/k Dusttt)
LRP x12 17.5
FDR- 6.8 to 7.2 for asphalt, I stayed with 7.2 on carpet
motor- x-10 insert
tekin profile-4
drag brk-10
neutral width-14
boost-45
turbo-9
ramp 2 or 3- with slow turns / heavy low RPM loads 3 will fade
delay- .2 or .3- faster ur entering straight, earlier u can bring it in
start RPM- 5000
end RPM- 13000 - 15000 (alter this to help control heat. lower= faster boost increase / little more heat)
ALWAYS check ur temp at the 2 or 3 minute mark with x12 motors on first run or after any change. They aren't all the same and some get hotter much quicker. Some may like 1 or 2 teeth less, some may like up to 3 or 4 teeth more- u have to find that out on your own, but shoot for around 198F (or less) with no fan after 6 min. I practice/tune with turbo on 8 and ramp 2. Temps are 155-160 outdoors w/no fan. When I'm in that range I know I can turn the turbo up a bump and or increase ramp, run the fan and I'm golden.
Last quick tip- if you're having trouble with the turbo coming in while in the infield and giving you a "shot" that messes u up for the next turn, do like Obama and rob Peter to pay Paul by adding 3 or 4 to your boost and taking away 2 or 3 from your turbo. You can also move the delay up or down one tenth. I would much rather give up 1 car length on the back straight than give up 3 or 4 because I overshoot a certain infield turn every time.
thank you sir! 
04-09-2010, 02:18 AM
yeah way to make friends in electric racing, lol, oh and by the way, that "whiny low talent" racer has won an indycar race and placed third at an indy 500 race, which is more than probably yourself or any other racer in this thread has achieved
04-09-2010, 03:46 AM
Let’s go back on topic
04-09-2010, 03:53 AM
04-09-2010, 04:35 AM
Hi guys
I need some help with installing the new software vegas 2.0
it installs fine and all but when i dubbel click on the sortcut it goes in but then the new software 203 is not there to be selected only 173 and 180. please help
and that is on a notebook with win7.
I need some help with installing the new software vegas 2.0
it installs fine and all but when i dubbel click on the sortcut it goes in but then the new software 203 is not there to be selected only 173 and 180. please help
and that is on a notebook with win7.
04-09-2010, 04:43 AM
04-09-2010, 05:13 AM
This hobby is just another fun thing for Me to blow some of my play money on!!!! You comments are funny
my comments were not for all electric racers just some of them they no who they are. To much complaining about the speeds of today's esc shut-up and race
my comments were not for all electric racers just some of them they no who they are. To much complaining about the speeds of today's esc shut-up and race
Last edited by HoboShop; 04-09-2010 at 06:04 AM.
04-09-2010, 06:24 AM
Can someone respond to my? This is why I mainly run 10 scale and 8 scale onroad nitro. Every year they are changeing the classes and rules to cater to the cry babbies last time I checked this is still racing if you can't keep up or afford a certain class move down to a slower one or just quit all together electric racers remind me of the whiny low talent female Indy racer see hasn't won anything yet but see gets more attention then the guys who finished on the podium
last time I checked this is still racing if you can't keep up or afford a certain class move down to a slower one or just quit all together electric racers remind me of the whiny low talent female Indy racer see hasn't won anything yet but see gets more attention then the guys who finished on the podiumI do both Nitro and Electric. I don't know if this is an answer or not to your question but from experience there are as you state, cry babies in EVERY sport. Nitro has its share of it own. Take for example if you will YOU that's right YOU. This is a total different class other than what you are currently running YET you find the time to complain. EVERYONE so far has ignored your lame comments YET you choose to be a cry baby and pursue the issue.
As long as there is life there will be cry babies get over it!
If Electric wants to run 50 classes sure why not!
F1, NASCAR etc. all change rules EVERY season why shouldn't we...
The reason why Nitro is dwindling is (imo) the lack of change (Eating chicken everyday syndrome). We attract no NEW blood with that attitude.
No ALL proposed rules and classes will be implemented but that's why we have discussion board like these, to post CONSTRUCTIVE criticisms oh in your terms crying.
In Short
KEEP IT REAL
KEEP IT FUN
KEEP IT CONSTRUCTIVE or
KEEP IT MOVING!!
04-09-2010, 06:35 AM
could someone plz help my im going to race this weeknd and they use silver can motors im having trouble getting the car wired up and working . whats the problem
04-09-2010, 06:57 AM
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf