niznai

Not sure if you're running on or off road. Remember high end servos can have very high stall currents. I use JR servos as well but have never had any problems. I think your problem is a cumulated drain which surpasses the available power. Remember some radios drain more than others too (for example some Spektrum receivers pull higher currents than expected).
Check if the esc wires are capable of delivering in excess of 6A to the radio so the servo is properly powered and assess if you should change them. I changed mine to a wire size equal to that of the servo I use (which is clearly heavier gauge than the little wires the Tekin comes with).

A powerful capacitor might just get you over the drain spikes but I don't regard it as a permanent solution if this is your problem.

sonic31

iTrader: (6)

hello, any settings suggestions for 17.5 redline BL, but i can only use the 200 software not the 203... im running in a class that doesnt allow the newer software.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

10 motor 20 timing boost max turbo 4.5 5.0 fdr. since we can go more with timing on 203 if you need a little more add timing boost

marooko

iTrader: (35)

So why no heat sink on this ESC? Is it just that insane that it doesn't need one?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Yup.

SlowerOne

Solder posts are the only heatsink needed - don't cut them down or insulate them (with heatshrink). It's not insane, it's just good design.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Today i joined the dark side

B4james

iTrader: (13)

The only thing dark is the case,


After we weave the magic with the hotwire on Sunday you'll be grinning as you're winning

chris_dono

I'd be careful running the X12 without changing the insert first. I span it up and it was overtimed with the 0 insert on 30 boost (40 on the motor by default apparently) so with the above setup, you've got 75 degrees at the top of the boost range, then another 10 at full throttle (85 in total)

Try it by all means, but temp it after a minute or two. Personally I think it's too much timing.

tc3team

No problem

Keep an eye on the motor temperature though, as that is always going to be your best indicator as to how hard the motor is working...

If you do need a pinion gear change, you might need 1 tooth lower to get more rip out the extra corner(s) put into place for the smaller straights, but it could give you more heat build up.

Also one last thing, i'm sure you are onto it already, but change the gearing OR the boost setting to help your progress, don't do them together...

Victory Side

iTrader: (10)

Thanks!

Victory Side

iTrader: (10)

So what are you saying. To take some timing out of the motor with one of the inserts?

12scale

iTrader: (2)

Looks like i have 2

B4james

iTrader: (13)

looks like my laptop is going to be working overtime for the next few meetings

tc3team

and watch out for that USB cable getting hot with all your setup changes...