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Old 12-15-2009, 07:12 PM
  #8671  
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Originally Posted by scr_achy
Yes, this is very true! I had been running some Orion 3300 30c batterys and felt my car could of have been faster in all aspects of the track. I spent countless hours trying different gearing and hotwire setups. Purchased a new Flighpower 5000 40C pack and it was almost night and day.
Told yah. Haha

Now if you get a thunderpower you will really notice the difference By far the fastest packs out there so far!
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:24 PM
  #8672  
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
Yeah, Novak says that N is 30 degrees, but supposedly their 30degrees is only 15degrees in a Duo. Not that somebody's angle-o-meter is busted but the guy who wrote the unofficial Tekin RS user manual explained this discrepancy. I said 15 so that anyone with a non-Novak motor could replicate my settings properly without melting their toy car into the track surface. IIRC means "if I remember correctly".


Yes. I've been all over the spectrum of gearing and timing with this Novak motor, and it's sensitive to the single tooth at these settings. That tells me the relationship between timing and gearing is appropriate. If a tooth or two didn't feel much different, that would be a sign the high timing was numbing things down.
its seems like your running an awful lot of timing, 15 on the motor and max timing boost? sounds like your generating excess heat for no reason.
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:47 PM
  #8673  
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
Tekin RS w/Novak Ballistic 17.5
5.26FDR w/Jaco Blues
Motor timing @ N (which IIRC is 15degrees compared with other manufacturers)
Timing boost = max
Turbo boost = max
0.3second delay
Vegas 200
100x40 outer track dimensions, tight chicane leading into full length back straight followed by sweeper.

The infield is busy, keeping the car turning and transitioning. I set the gear ratio to keep the motor on boil throughout the infield. That 0.3sec delay doesn't hit until halfway down the back straight.
greg what car is this setup in? I have a t2 009 xray. i just got it and was looking for a good setup for my tekin.

Also if anyone has v200.. much appreciated if you can email it to me. Thanks email is [email protected]
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:52 AM
  #8674  
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hey just wired my tq booster to my tekin, do i have to cut any wires from the tekin on/off switch?to finish install?
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Old 12-16-2009, 04:56 AM
  #8675  
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Originally Posted by RC4ODC
greg what car is this setup in? I have a t2 009 xray. i just got it and was looking for a good setup for my tekin.

Also if anyone has v200.. much appreciated if you can email it to me. Thanks email is [email protected]
http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X1295...Hotwire200.zip
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:25 AM
  #8676  
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Originally Posted by Team-RTR
its seems like your running an awful lot of timing, 15 on the motor and max timing boost? sounds like your generating excess heat for no reason.
+1 on that.

Sometimes, you can only use so much hp. The rest is just transfered into miscommutation, and/or wasted energy, which in effect is excess heat.

It's a far fetched example, but a car on dual drive is more efficient sometimes because it's way of working is not snapping at the throttle or brakes, it smooths you out as a racer, and in turn smooths the car out on power and braking.

It will probably leave you with more battery at the end of a race too.

Which, in turn can help you carry more corner speed... It can be very effective sometimes on a smaller track with a slower motor to tame you away from the "snap" of sensored mode.

It is very easy to get into the habit of racing "stock" using the esc as an on off switch.
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:46 AM
  #8677  
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Originally Posted by Team-RTR
its seems like your running an awful lot of timing, 15 on the motor and max timing boost? sounds like your generating excess heat for no reason.
+2 running a very simalar setup as todd samew track different car

but todds got a 009
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:43 AM
  #8678  
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
hey just wired my tq booster to my tekin, do i have to cut any wires from the tekin on/off switch?to finish install?

no you don't! just solder the red wire to the positive post, and turn on radio,then booster,then esc

i just wired mine in the other night works great
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:52 AM
  #8679  
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Emiel

Well heres the track

so what are yor thought for gearing/ setup for 10.5


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOEjL...eature=related

Thanks wayne
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:01 AM
  #8680  
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Originally Posted by Team-RTR
its seems like your running an awful lot of timing, 15 on the motor and max timing boost? sounds like your generating excess heat for no reason.
I should have posted my motor temps as well, only 145degrees after 6 minute races with 1 minute of warm-up laps.

Originally Posted by RC4ODC
greg what car is this setup in? I have a t2 009 xray. i just got it and was looking for a good setup for my tekin.
This is in a Losi Type-R.

Originally Posted by tc3team
+1 on that.
Sometimes, you can only use so much hp. The rest is just transfered into miscommutation, and/or wasted energy, which in effect is excess heat.
It's a far fetched example, but a car on dual drive is more efficient sometimes because it's way of working is not snapping at the throttle or brakes, it smooths you out as a racer, and in turn smooths the car out on power and braking. It will probably leave you with more battery at the end of a race too. Which, in turn can help you carry more corner speed... It can be very effective sometimes on a smaller track with a slower motor to tame you away from the "snap" of sensored mode. It is very easy to get into the habit of racing "stock" using the esc as an on off switch.
Yes, I totally agree. My cars get setup quite sensitive to throttle response, and I usually run profile 3 and end up throttle driving all but the tightest the infield corners.
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:29 AM
  #8681  
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Originally Posted by Senna Racing
Emiel

Well heres the track

so what are yor thought for gearing/ setup for 10.5


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOEjL...eature=related

Thanks wayne
Hey Wayne,

Motor Timing on 4
Boost 15
Turbo Max
Turbo delay 0,4 to 0,6
Gearing 6,7FDR to start with.
Gearing you must play with.
As you come top speed to short, ad some boost.
This setup gives you a bit more power in the infield.

Let me now what the car does, than I can help you better. For what I see on the film the straight isn't that long so you want more power in the infield.

Greetings, Emiel
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:43 AM
  #8682  
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thanks Emile hope to give it a go sunday altough we have a mini and nitro enduro

but hope to get dome happy laps

will let you know
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:48 AM
  #8683  
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Randy, will there be an upgrade that puts the turbo on the throttle curve after the delay has triggered, instead of it being an on/off switch ??

Jacko
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:57 AM
  #8684  
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Originally Posted by Victor Vector
Randy, will there be an upgrade that puts the turbo on the throttle curve after the delay has triggered, instead of it being an on/off switch ??

Jacko
The turbo ramps up after the delay...if that's what you mean by "curve". The timing doesn't come on full force after the delay. If you bench test it you can see/hear the motor spool up gradually.
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:00 AM
  #8685  
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie
The turbo ramps up after the delay...if that's what you mean by "curve". The timing doesn't come on full force after the delay. If you bench test it you can see/hear the motor spool up gradually.
Yep, It's pretty awesome too!
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