Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Anyone got any tips for a warm running rs? Im running 17.5 blinky on a smaller, somewhat technical carpet track. My motor comes off the track after 7 mins at 160f but my esc is hitting 125-130f. The esc is pretty far from the motor, too. It's not close against it.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
How many LED's on the esc after the run? 125-130f doesn't sound very hot at all.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (144)
we are running a 17.5 boosted TC class here and I dont see any team 17.5 boosted onroad setup sheets for 223 or any of the old ones that used to be up on the site. Anyone know where I can find one? or care to share a 223 17.5 set up
Last edited by Dusttt; 08-08-2012 at 10:47 PM.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (34)
I'm using the 223 software in blinky mode, and the throttle response is very smooth. I would like to get the punchy feel of the 212 software back. What do I adjust?
Last edited by CL; 08-09-2012 at 09:30 AM.
They work fine in 223, just install the settings.
We're working on a new updated ESC setup page.
I have an issue hopefully some one may know what the deal is here .
So i purchased a speed passion mmm 17.5 motor to replace an old trinity d3 figured id try something new. So i threw it in in replace of my D3 and kept my Tekin RS pro settings the same as my D3 but i left the MMM bell timing mid and took it out for a short spin out front of the house .couple 40 ft ft stretches maybe and did a few turns to feel how the new car set up i put on felt turning then i gave it alitte throttle and hit the brakes and soon as i went from brake to throttle the car made a noise like the belts were slipping but i know from racing for 4 years theres no way i over looked that ,brought the car in the house and messed with it for hours changed sensor wire and stuff like that when i give it just alitte bit of throttle the motor would wistle and seemed like at that point i have some cogging goin on cause when i gave it some more throttle it would just get to a point where it let loose and just luanched so i replaced my receiver and messed witht eh speedo some more took timing out more as well nothing worked . So then i threw my D3 back in a it was fine no cogging no noothing just like i was pre install of the mmm i opend the MMM up and took the sensor board out and had a look and there was 2 small solder points that almost had what i would call a small amount of white on the board around the it self dunno if it was burnt and just need another board or what did i over boost it or i dont know cause i jnow the way a d3 feels when you spinn it compared to an mmm is much much diffrent the mmm is much more bound to the magnet and alot harder to spin. any input on this from someone who has experience with sothing like this let me know what you guys think should i just order a sensor board of send in the whole motor and jsut wait i cant imagine i did anything to cause i wasnt hard on it at all
So i purchased a speed passion mmm 17.5 motor to replace an old trinity d3 figured id try something new. So i threw it in in replace of my D3 and kept my Tekin RS pro settings the same as my D3 but i left the MMM bell timing mid and took it out for a short spin out front of the house .couple 40 ft ft stretches maybe and did a few turns to feel how the new car set up i put on felt turning then i gave it alitte throttle and hit the brakes and soon as i went from brake to throttle the car made a noise like the belts were slipping but i know from racing for 4 years theres no way i over looked that ,brought the car in the house and messed with it for hours changed sensor wire and stuff like that when i give it just alitte bit of throttle the motor would wistle and seemed like at that point i have some cogging goin on cause when i gave it some more throttle it would just get to a point where it let loose and just luanched so i replaced my receiver and messed witht eh speedo some more took timing out more as well nothing worked . So then i threw my D3 back in a it was fine no cogging no noothing just like i was pre install of the mmm i opend the MMM up and took the sensor board out and had a look and there was 2 small solder points that almost had what i would call a small amount of white on the board around the it self dunno if it was burnt and just need another board or what did i over boost it or i dont know cause i jnow the way a d3 feels when you spinn it compared to an mmm is much much diffrent the mmm is much more bound to the magnet and alot harder to spin. any input on this from someone who has experience with sothing like this let me know what you guys think should i just order a sensor board of send in the whole motor and jsut wait i cant imagine i did anything to cause i wasnt hard on it at all
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
My goodness, I realize this is just a forum but itd be so much easier for everyone if you ORGANIZE your thoughts rather than just throw them into a post.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Amen brother.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (280)
If you'd bring this question up on a "Speed Passion" thread, you'd probably get an answer.
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Mine was coming off this past weekend with about 4 lights after practice running over 6 min. I talked to Chris and he said not a big deal especially since it has been so hot at mikes. On sat after each run it was coming off at 3 lights. As far as I know it's hard to gauge the temp on the tekin because the fets are on the bottom. So I don't think the are as hot as some temp guns show.
Reedy Sonic 17.5 boosted set up
Hi,
Would be interested in set up anyone has for Reedy Sonic 17.5 (boosted).
Just got this motor, tried same settings I used for Trinity 3D but seems a little 'soft'. The 3D was a weapon with these settings on very short and technical track.
Here are my settings:
Boost 50 start 5,000 end 12,000
Turbo 10 0 delay, ramp 2
Motor timing 2 notches advanced from factory setting (middle)
Rollout 31mm on rubber Much More 32 (pre-glued)
Thanks
Alan
Would be interested in set up anyone has for Reedy Sonic 17.5 (boosted).
Just got this motor, tried same settings I used for Trinity 3D but seems a little 'soft'. The 3D was a weapon with these settings on very short and technical track.
Here are my settings:
Boost 50 start 5,000 end 12,000
Turbo 10 0 delay, ramp 2
Motor timing 2 notches advanced from factory setting (middle)
Rollout 31mm on rubber Much More 32 (pre-glued)
Thanks
Alan
Tech Initiate
rs pro/ tekin 5,5 help
Hi!
need some helt with this setup for a friend. just got the Rs pro and redline 5,5 combo. and it`s like a rocket for maybe 3 laps then it will loose power, when we check the car after driving for maybe 4 min led 7 lights, and stays for about 10-20 sec, them it will make a glitch (motor and servo moves little) show normal themp indicator (4-5 lights)
have someone had this problem before?
battery is 5000mA 40c
motor temp about 60-70c
battery is cold
fdr 8.0
Boost: 35
Turbo:10
delay: 0.2
rpm 10.000-30.000
not shure about motor timing but around 15-20 maybe.
need some helt with this setup for a friend. just got the Rs pro and redline 5,5 combo. and it`s like a rocket for maybe 3 laps then it will loose power, when we check the car after driving for maybe 4 min led 7 lights, and stays for about 10-20 sec, them it will make a glitch (motor and servo moves little) show normal themp indicator (4-5 lights)
have someone had this problem before?
battery is 5000mA 40c
motor temp about 60-70c
battery is cold
fdr 8.0
Boost: 35
Turbo:10
delay: 0.2
rpm 10.000-30.000
not shure about motor timing but around 15-20 maybe.
Active breaking question.
I'm running 17.5 boosted TC with a hair pin at the end of the straight. I just didn't have enough breaks so is it a simple as just turning the Active break on or do I need to set it at a certain level or %?
I'm running 17.5 boosted TC with a hair pin at the end of the straight. I just didn't have enough breaks so is it a simple as just turning the Active break on or do I need to set it at a certain level or %?
Tech Adept
Just turn it on. Its just an off/on switch. If its too much just dial it down on your radio