rpoage

iTrader: (2)

Ending RPM: 8607

?

JPMSRacing

iTrader: (2)

change the end to 18000, your throwing to much timing to fast into motor.

locked

iTrader: (1)

That seems to be normal for 12th scale. Look at the team driver setups for 12th. They have similar rpm ranges, but generally a lower starting rpm.

rpoage

iTrader: (2)

I have the set ups from a couple other guys a whole lot faster that me:

D. Lia IIC 3979 / 8506
M. Ivy 3329 / 6500

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

I think you have too much timing. End rpm is fine for 13.5 1s. I don't run ballistic motors. But on duo in 13.5 we run no timing on the motor. And if we run any timing on the motor, we run less timing boost.
I think you are seeing the motor cog.

So after a couple hot laps your motor is prob already hot

btw, I never found those setup to work well with the ballistic motor. I always find the ballistic to run hot and feel soft with the duo setup.

rpoage

iTrader: (2)

I get very little temp in the motor. Highest reading after hard 8 min is 116deg. I could toss more gearing at it but it is fast enough for my current driving level.

Things I will try Sunday:

Change out sensor wire
Change timing on motor to 0 (I'm curious to try this anyway)
Change out 1S pack (it's taking a long time to charge so it's suspect)
Change out the Speedo (sad to say but I suspect this will be the cure)

JPMSRacing

iTrader: (2)

when I tried putting to much timing in my car, it did exactly what you decribed, either lots less timing to the motor or spread out the range

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

the setup with small rpm ranges are really setup for a heavy gearing. what you are trying to accomplish is using the torque of the motor in the corners and using the rapid timing boost to give you acceleration out of the corners. if you are not gearing high enough, you are not getting the benfits of the small rpm range.

as i said i do not run ballistic motors. i ran a couple because we wanted to get some profiles that were ok with the ballistics. generally most of the setups we found to work with the ballistic, did not make it super fast and they were all setup like sedan setups. where you run a larger rpm range and ramped timing slower. it seams that the ballistic motors would not take timing as well as the duo based motors. i am not sure you can run 0 on teh ballistic. i have always been told that you can't. so usually we just don't run as much timming boost.

i just looked at your setup a little closer. you are throttle profile 5 and also running min throttle 10? that seams very aggressive for 13.5. those motors have a lot of bottom end. for me throttle profile 5 is pretty agressive on the bottom coming out of the corners and i find it hard to control and to run another 10 on min throttle. wow!!!

HarryLeach

I have to agree, I would try:

Try 0 Turbo
Boost down to the 30-35 range

See where it's at with those changes. If you're lacking speed on the straight, add Turbo back in 2 degrees at a time.

Once you do get started on a run, do your lap times stay pretty stable, or do they drop off steadily?

rpoage

iTrader: (2)

Very stable. This was much easier when I just had to change brush's

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Hey Robert, what's going on?

A few things I noticed. Your rollout is close to what I run in 10.5. You should be able to pull another tooth or two and find a couple tenths.

I have never run a Novak motor but from what I understand, they have a lot of physical timing in them. I hear people actually run negative timing in them in boost classes like the LRP I run (-10 timing) so back the physical timing down.

Drop the boost a bit. Try about 40.

If all else fails, call me from the track and tell me what it's doing. I'll get you straight, haha.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Just looked at your set-up again. 30 deg of physical timing on a Novak motor! There's the problem. 0 or even neg for boosted classes. That will have you flying.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

It's also possible that you're losing the sensors during a run.

I overheard at Snowbirds that the N___K motor has an issue that if the rear bearing/retainer is either over tightened or something it can actually allow the rotor to short the sensor board out.

Of course with ANY other esc this will cause stoppage. But with the RS we'll switch to dual mode (sensorless) and continue to run. This will then feel doggy,slow, and can run hot.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

yep, a couple of guys from my local track were using novaks and went to them at the birds and all the do is put a sticker on the rotor so it doesnt short out

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Really? That's pretty wild