Tekin RS ESC sensored
12-31-2008, 02:52 PM
#1876
Tech Master
Hello Guys,
I just received my new Tekin RS Pro and Hotwire. I would like the newest 189software. My email is [email protected] I live in Lafayette Indiana. I am not sure who my local Tekin contact would be.
I am going to be using this in my VTA car, does anyone have any good base setups? Novak 21.5 in a TC5.
I just received my new Tekin RS Pro and Hotwire. I would like the newest 189software. My email is [email protected] I live in Lafayette Indiana. I am not sure who my local Tekin contact would be.
I am going to be using this in my VTA car, does anyone have any good base setups? Novak 21.5 in a TC5.
12-31-2008, 02:54 PM
#1877
Tech Master
in 10 min. its's 24:00 our out here. So all ready a happy a newyear to you all
12-31-2008, 06:31 PM
#1878
Just to clarify, reduce a tooth for 5 deg of boost, is for 48p?
The boost timing isn't too hard to regear for. If you're looking for a good starting point for a 13.5 start with max motor timing and 5 to 10 on boost.
Take your starting gearing with no boost and go down each time you add say 5 degrees of boost.
Motor temps are motor temps. If the motor is too hot, you're overgeared. The motor should feel good all the way through the run. If you're falling off towards the end of the run you're probably overgeared.
Too much timing can cause roughness in the infield.
I dropped two teeth in by 2wd buggy running 13.5's just by adding 10 degrees of boost.
Take your starting gearing with no boost and go down each time you add say 5 degrees of boost.
Motor temps are motor temps. If the motor is too hot, you're overgeared. The motor should feel good all the way through the run. If you're falling off towards the end of the run you're probably overgeared.
Too much timing can cause roughness in the infield.
I dropped two teeth in by 2wd buggy running 13.5's just by adding 10 degrees of boost.
12-31-2008, 07:07 PM
#1879
My Novak 13.5 reached 312° today. The stickers melted off, it was REAL fast though.
Lesson learned, never mess with boost/gearing when your setup isn't working. Because when you get it working and start running "real" laps that 150° you thought the motor was coming off at turns into 300+ and melts stickers.
Was fast though. 4.11 FDR 12° Motor, 12(+15) Boost.
To my surprise, the ESC was barely warm to the touch.
Lesson learned, never mess with boost/gearing when your setup isn't working. Because when you get it working and start running "real" laps that 150° you thought the motor was coming off at turns into 300+ and melts stickers.
Was fast though. 4.11 FDR 12° Motor, 12(+15) Boost.
To my surprise, the ESC was barely warm to the touch.
Last edited by ChristopherKee; 12-31-2008 at 07:36 PM.
01-01-2009, 06:11 AM
#1881
Tech Regular
REDLINE 10.5BL ROLLOUT AND BOOST SETTINGS
Just obtained a redline and RS set too new software.
Motor timing as factory setting,boost 20 and rollout 50mm .Throttle setting on 4.
8 min 1/12th carpet racing large track .Any opinions on settings or any suggestions.
Motor timing as factory setting,boost 20 and rollout 50mm .Throttle setting on 4.
8 min 1/12th carpet racing large track .Any opinions on settings or any suggestions.
01-01-2009, 06:31 AM
#1882
Tech Regular
WIRING
Hope this helps
01-01-2009, 07:03 AM
#1885
Tech Elite
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01-01-2009, 07:12 AM
#1886
Adam?
This is probably not the issue you're having, but just in case, turn on your transmitter and car, and roll the spur gear by hand. You should see the last three LED's pulsing in sequence somewhat dimly as you roll the spur. If they're not pulsing, your ESC isn't getting any signal from the sensors. It might account for the behavior you're seeing on the track. If they are pulsing when you roll the spur by hanjd, squeeze the trigger lightly, those three LEDs should be pulsing even as the motor picks up some speed. If you see those LED's go out as the motor picks up speed, you're in hybrid mode instead of sensor mode. That could also account for what you're seeing on the track.
Probably not the problem, but worth a look to rule it out.
One other thing to check... don't get insulted, I wouldn't even mention it if I hadn't done it myself a few times... Once you've got all the settings where you want them in the hotwire interface, don't forget to send them to the ESC. I've made that mistake three or four times... Wasted a qualifier that way once... I took a few teeth off the pinion, went into hotwire, cranked the boost up, then unplugged without actually transmitting the new settings first. Went out on the track three teeth undergeared. By the end of the warmup laps I'd figured it out, but too late to run back and reset it...
Again, probably not your problem, but worth ruling it out.
This is probably not the issue you're having, but just in case, turn on your transmitter and car, and roll the spur gear by hand. You should see the last three LED's pulsing in sequence somewhat dimly as you roll the spur. If they're not pulsing, your ESC isn't getting any signal from the sensors. It might account for the behavior you're seeing on the track. If they are pulsing when you roll the spur by hanjd, squeeze the trigger lightly, those three LEDs should be pulsing even as the motor picks up some speed. If you see those LED's go out as the motor picks up speed, you're in hybrid mode instead of sensor mode. That could also account for what you're seeing on the track.
Probably not the problem, but worth a look to rule it out.
One other thing to check... don't get insulted, I wouldn't even mention it if I hadn't done it myself a few times... Once you've got all the settings where you want them in the hotwire interface, don't forget to send them to the ESC. I've made that mistake three or four times... Wasted a qualifier that way once... I took a few teeth off the pinion, went into hotwire, cranked the boost up, then unplugged without actually transmitting the new settings first. Went out on the track three teeth undergeared. By the end of the warmup laps I'd figured it out, but too late to run back and reset it...
Again, probably not your problem, but worth ruling it out.
01-01-2009, 09:10 AM
#1887
with the 189 software, does the timing boost start to work at high rpm or is it throughout the entire range?
01-01-2009, 09:14 AM
#1888
01-01-2009, 09:19 AM
#1889
so if im running a redline 17.5 with maxed timing, what if i back it off 10 degrees and put 10 degrees timing boost in the speedo. whats the difference?
01-01-2009, 09:25 AM
#1890
-Wayne