Glitching Problems - Suggestion for New Modified Motor
#1
Glitching Problems - Suggestion for New Modified Motor
Driving further than 10 feet away the steering and throttle start glitching hard. Brand new radio system did nothing. I clipped the capacitor off of the motor, only got worse (I was told they can have the opposite effect at times, go ahead and laugh). Threw in another old motor like the first one, and it actually showed signs of change. The glitching was much less harsh, but still a problem. So clearly the motor is the culprit here, but I can't just go out and buy a random modified motor, and the guys behind the counter at my local hobby store could give a rats ass to actually give me a decent suggestion.
Here is my Speed Control:
http://www.fastrakhobby.com/catalog/...87a13b2134c07c
Is there a possibility I need to "re-set up" this speed control, and that would solve this glitching? I haven't even tried cause I don't have the guide, and I don't know what this 1 button shit is.
If that couldn't possibly be the problem, what's the best bang for your buck, selling like hot cakes modified motor these days? I don't think I can do that brushless stuff, seems like you have to change too much equipment.
I'm running a XXXT with a dirty differential, bald tires and 5 year old 2400 batteries.
Here is my Speed Control:
http://www.fastrakhobby.com/catalog/...87a13b2134c07c
Is there a possibility I need to "re-set up" this speed control, and that would solve this glitching? I haven't even tried cause I don't have the guide, and I don't know what this 1 button shit is.
If that couldn't possibly be the problem, what's the best bang for your buck, selling like hot cakes modified motor these days? I don't think I can do that brushless stuff, seems like you have to change too much equipment.
I'm running a XXXT with a dirty differential, bald tires and 5 year old 2400 batteries.
#2
Here is a link to the manual for your speedo: http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...ons/index.html . Read the manual and try to reset it to your radio since you have to do that with any new radio anyhow. Honestly a whole BL system would be alot better and all you need is a speedo and motor. You can also check those out on Novaks site. Good luck!!
#3
Try to set up the antena to that the end of it is a far from the motor as possible.
#4
Tech Champion
I suspect the problem is with your batteries, and maybe gearing. The batteries may not be maintaining enough voltage to keep the radio operating correctly. Possibly compounded by gearing, if you have switched from a stock motor to a modified with the same gearing the load has increased on the batteries.
A couple of things to try: Lower gearing (smaller pinion). a modified motor turns more rpms, but needs lower gearing. You will still go faster, with a lot more acceleration.
Another idea, and a great way to test everything out: You mentioned a new radio system. Take the receiver battery holder that came with it, put 4 AAs in it. But be sure to first pull the red wire out of the speed control servo wire going to the receiver, push on the little metal tab on the side of the small black plug and it should back out fairly easily. Tape it up good. Then use the receiver battery to power the receiver (and steering servo), that takes the motor load out of the equation.
If the receiver battery works, one possible solution is a external BEC, Novak and Castle Creations (Mamba) makes them, to replace the receiver battery box. Of course you can just use the battery box.
I suspect that newer batteries would help as well.
Good luck!
A couple of things to try: Lower gearing (smaller pinion). a modified motor turns more rpms, but needs lower gearing. You will still go faster, with a lot more acceleration.
Another idea, and a great way to test everything out: You mentioned a new radio system. Take the receiver battery holder that came with it, put 4 AAs in it. But be sure to first pull the red wire out of the speed control servo wire going to the receiver, push on the little metal tab on the side of the small black plug and it should back out fairly easily. Tape it up good. Then use the receiver battery to power the receiver (and steering servo), that takes the motor load out of the equation.
If the receiver battery works, one possible solution is a external BEC, Novak and Castle Creations (Mamba) makes them, to replace the receiver battery box. Of course you can just use the battery box.
I suspect that newer batteries would help as well.
Good luck!
Last edited by Dave H; 04-20-2008 at 02:52 PM.
#5
Tech Addict
iTrader: (53)
A long time ago, when I couldn't afford good stuff, I bought some used battery packs at a race I was at. Whenever I used those packs, I would get horrible interference and my truck would glitch all over the place. I never could figure it out. Finally, I chucked those packs and got some new ones, and had no more issues. If you have access to another battery pack, I would test it and see if you still have the issues.
Also, if the motor is old, I would probably put three new capacitors on it - 1 from positive to ground, one from negative to ground, and one from positive to negative.
Good luck!
Also, if the motor is old, I would probably put three new capacitors on it - 1 from positive to ground, one from negative to ground, and one from positive to negative.
Good luck!
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
We've had those '10 ft away' glitches before, and it always came down to one of these 5 things:
1) Weak batteries - car or radio. At the hobby shop I frequent, customers bring in lots of problem cars that can be 'fixed' by plugging in a fresh pack.
2) AM radio with antanna loose or not fully extended (FM rarely do this)
3) Batteries touching conductive material like graphite tray or carbon fiber battery strap cause electrical noise
4) Dirty, dirty motors, usually a hung brush. Disassemble, cut comm, get new brushes, clean and spray everything before reassembly
5) Tx and Rx crystals reversed (should be correct in your new radio tho)
I've also rerouted wires, bought those magnetic loops, replaced speedos and receivers. Didn't matter, it was always one of the above that was the true cause.
1) Weak batteries - car or radio. At the hobby shop I frequent, customers bring in lots of problem cars that can be 'fixed' by plugging in a fresh pack.
2) AM radio with antanna loose or not fully extended (FM rarely do this)
3) Batteries touching conductive material like graphite tray or carbon fiber battery strap cause electrical noise
4) Dirty, dirty motors, usually a hung brush. Disassemble, cut comm, get new brushes, clean and spray everything before reassembly
5) Tx and Rx crystals reversed (should be correct in your new radio tho)
I've also rerouted wires, bought those magnetic loops, replaced speedos and receivers. Didn't matter, it was always one of the above that was the true cause.