DJ_Shakespear

No need to cut and solder anything, I just rerouted what I could between the tank/battery and the throttle servo. Here are the pics.

Yeah, looks pretty good.

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Still lookin good



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Now you see the "mess."

Its all tucked away, so it won't get in the way of anything or fall out.

Ohh and if you are thinking "hmm, where is the exhaust pressure tubing going??"
The answer is I've put the exhaust gas cooler under the top-deck. And no, the belt won't hit the tubes either!

speed6

Isn't the exhaust pressure silicone pipe a bit way to long?

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

I just got buggy and my rrr has been sitting on the side since lol. once i finish exams, i should have plenty of time.

this is my wiring set up.. everything is below the chassis, even the receiver is under there.

DJ_Shakespear

I don't believe there is a limit to how much you can use, as long as it isn't STUPID long!!

SebO

iTrader: (1)

will the exhaust gas cooler really help?

DJ_Shakespear

In the beginning, I didn't think so. But after a few times running it, I decided to see what temps I was having. Before I ran the engine, the cooler was cold, as normal. After a run, the cooler was very warm, so that tell me alot of warm/hot air is going into the tank. As long as you can mount the cooler in a pretty much direct flow of cool air, then yes, it works to cool that exhaust air. Not sure how much of a difference it makes to runtime though, still need to check that out.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

some friends that run for novarossi told me no but they ran it because they had to sell them.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

I'm rebuilding a RRR WCE I bought used and noticed some things,any input from experienced driver welcome.
-Rear springs aren't the golden ones,they are silver.Now I know why it doesn't had droop,silvers are longer!Will run 7mm ride height.
-Rear belt it's not the SP,looks like the normal one.Side belt it's thin and rubber like has kevlar strings visible,the front one looks good,is tight even on loose setting in the bulkhead,also rubs on servo-saver,no visible model writing can't say it's the original.
-Rear upper link has play in the ball-ends and I want to run the rear upper arm,looks like it needs a sleeve to go inside the upper arm right?
-A front and a rear upright that is cracked,along with bent front CVD shafts and worn pulleys.
Just need arms and uprights,pulley set,small parts set,outdrives and belts.I've straighten the shafts so i think it's all good.The current kyosho outdrives wear like the old ones?There is an alternative available?What more should i get?

TIA

DJ_Shakespear

I'm rebuilding a RRR WCE I bought used and noticed some things,any input from experienced driver welcome.
-Rear springs aren't the golden ones,they are silver.Now I know why it doesn't had droop,silvers are longer!Will run 7mm ride height.
-Rear belt it's not the SP,looks like the normal one.Side belt it's thin and rubber like has kevlar strings visible,the front one looks good,is tight even on loose setting in the bulkhead,also rubs on servo-saver,no visible model writing can't say it's the original.
-Rear upper link has play in the ball-ends and I want to run the rear upper arm,looks like it needs a sleeve to go inside the upper arm right?
-A front and a rear upright that is cracked,along with bent front CVD shafts and worn pulleys.
Just need arms and uprights,pulley set,small parts set,outdrives and belts.I've straighten the shafts so i think it's all good.The current kyosho outdrives wear like the old ones?There is an alternative available?What more should i get?

I know even on my car, when I put new wheels on the rear (being 64-65mm) The minimum ride height I can run is about 7mm.
I also have NO IDEA how to tell the difference between the normal belts and the SP belts, I only know to get the SP belts.
If the rear links have play, im not sure if the parts are the same, but you would need to get6.8mm flange balls (Part # W0154) $2 and I think you get 8-10 of them.
For the uprights, just get new ones (front is VZ205, rear is VZ224)
If you can't straighten the front CVDs, then it's about $40 for a new set of 2.
As far as outdrives go, I know that I've read somewhere that there are compatible ones that have less wear than the Kyosho ones, but I can't remember what they are! I know K-Factory has hardened/lightened outdrives, but I don't know the wear-factor of them.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Thanks DJ,will not run other belt than SP,last sunday disassembled,cleaned with simple green(i think it is) and a old toothbrush and reassembled,took me 6hours in total.Car looks new,chassis has no tweak,cosmetic wear on the 2speed-shaft and middle shaft(might add that they weight a ton compared to my G4JR),a front arm cracked around the pillow ball,e-clips in the middle shaft are way thicker than originals causing stress,all pulleys worn badly, wrong screws and one piece engine mount has a striped screw hole i'll see if it's salvageable.
Oh and removed the play on the brake hub,just hammered the disc a little and voila,tight fit.

EDIT:Looking at evo2 exploded view i need VZ201,VZ202,VZ203,VZ206,VZ210B,VZ213,VZ219,1385,W0 154.Phew...Not needed but worth getting should be VZW056,VZ209B,VZ210B,VZW066-21,VZ113-61 and VZ114-56C.

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Its so easy to waste ample time cleaning/re-building a chassis.

I spent 4-5 hours cleaning mine after my last race meet, and only removed the motor/top-deck and cleaned the car in those three parts, then re-assembled. I also replaced some worn parts whilst doing that though.

Still, I can't work out where the time went

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Speaking of myself,i work in an organized manner,tools on my right side,pieces on the left and car/screws in front.When disassemble a part put it away so it cannot distract you.One more thing i think it's making me spend less time are the wood screws as they have less threads to thread than machine thread screws.I train alot dismantling my cars also,2hours a day doing maintenance/setup...Hope it helps a bunch.

MikaR

I just doing a rebuild & cleaning myself.

I put the screws to small plastic bags separately and labeled them that hopefully makes it easier to put the chassis back together after cleaning the parts and changing the bearings.

I could propably buy a completely new chassis (R4 maybe) but somehow I enjoy working on my used & dirty cars. It's part of the hobby for me.

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30Tooth

Speaking of myself,i work in an organized manner,tools on my right side,pieces on the left and car/screws in front.When disassemble a part put it away so it cannot distract you.One more thing i think it's making me spend less time are the wood screws as they have less threads to thread than machine thread screws.I train alot dismantling my cars also,2hours a day doing maintenance/setup...Hope it helps a bunch.

Yes, I am also organised. All my tools are on the left or right organised in a tool pouch, car sits on a pit towel so I don't get any runaway bits or pieces, all parts removed go into a tray, etc. I'd say I'm somewhat anal about how clean my car is, I use cleaning gum to remove all dirt, some metho/alcohol to remove stubborn baked on stuff, etc.

It takes too much time, and I can't figure out why it goes so quickly! - Maybe its because I enjoy maintenance lol.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

I also enjoy maintenance,too much i think
MikaR,the R4 upper deck doesn't reach that far so accessing front diff/spool/OW is 4screws and there could be more tweaks i didn't see.When it comes out my G4JR will go for a R4.