afm

It depends on track size, design, surface conditions and traction.

I use it on position 1, with 2mm spacer in the upright, and 3/3.5° static camber.

AFM

kai888

iTrader: (17)

hey guys, had a big accident last weekend .... the motor mount, where it sticks outside of the chassis is abit bent, do i need to get a new one or can i keep using it? they are not cheap at 28bucks US a piece

i'll try and upload a photo of the damage later.

GREGORY!

iTrader: (1)

this is so sad!
i had a run away last week from a bad connection.
i made my chassis like a broken surfer board!
aouch!

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

you can bend the motor mount, it is easy and happens to me a lot.

kai888

iTrader: (17)

post some photos

kai888

iTrader: (17)

yeah i don't get why that thin part of the motor mount sticks out of the chassis, it almost seems like it was designed for the original evo and when they narrowed the chassis they couldn't be bothered with changing the motor mount

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

evo2 and evo chassis are the same there, the front was narrowed. im not sure why it sticks out either but most of the cars i can think of off the top of my head have the same thing. the kyosho mount is just not very strong. i dont know how it bends at all honestly considering it is closely bolted to the engine and then the chassis..

Chickentrader

iTrader: (13)

There is no other way to have a one piece engine mount;, unless you want a wider chassies (I don't), and I don't think that the connecting bar should be heavier. It is probably realistic to accept some damage to our cars from time to time.

My opinion for what it's worth is that that part of the mount is really not that exposed; it is well inside tires. exhaust and layshaft side pulley. The hit would have to come from underneath to damage it; and whilst it obviously happens, but I'm surprised to hear that you have had it has happened a lot. I have never heard of this problem before.

There are other and more serious design flaws with the RRR in my opinion; for example that the front rims cut into the shock ball ends, if the caster is angled back. That could easily be fixed by using a ball end desing like Mugen or X-Ray.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

shiston

iTrader: (3)

What the difference between the grey kit and red 4d clutch shoes? And which would be suited better for a fast flowing track with good traction?

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

was bored and with a bunch of spare parts i came up with this

dax/dls on a rrr..

just gotta o some adjustments.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

it works ?

looks nice but we need more info

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

yes it works.... and i got it to work, but came across a few issues and took it apart at the end. was too much headache.

i may give it another try in the future, but would need the parts machined out for perfect fit.

1. was too unstable. too sloppy even when i tried to eliminate the slop from all the linkages.

2. if i grab one wheel and rock it back and forth (with enough pressure), i was able to make the opposide move.

I guess this is the reason why the serpent dls runs the linkage from the a-arm to the upper-arm. to prevent ^ from happening and the only way it would work is if lower arm is compressed.

i found a solution to fixing this, which is running a spring which prevents it from happening

3. made the rear end too stiff, too much 'sprung' mass

at the end it just looked like there was too much going on..

kai888

iTrader: (17)

hi guys, is there a shock rebuild kit for the WC version?

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

you really just need the rubber x-rings unless you lost something

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

pretty much just a seal kit, and bladders.