Looking for a few OS .18TM parts
#1
Looking for a few OS .18TM parts
Im in the search of a few parts and some info.
i cant find crap, i've been on google for 30 minutes now "Computer anger"
what im looking for is the bearing size for both crank case bearings.
and i am also looking for the backplate to convert the engine over to bump start.
can anyone help me out?
Thanks
-Z
i cant find crap, i've been on google for 30 minutes now "Computer anger"
what im looking for is the bearing size for both crank case bearings.
and i am also looking for the backplate to convert the engine over to bump start.
can anyone help me out?
Thanks
-Z
#2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHKW1&P=OW
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCC94&P=OW
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJPZ5&P=OW
You may want to enquire about that backing plate as it is for a TZ and if you grind the nub off your crank it may work but you need to make sure piston clearance it alright.
Pretty sure its pull start only, tho you could cheat and take the backing plate out, press or drill the brass bushing out, get it alloy welded and remachine the face where the con rod sits against.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=OSMG2112&P=OW
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCC94&P=OW
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJPZ5&P=OW
You may want to enquire about that backing plate as it is for a TZ and if you grind the nub off your crank it may work but you need to make sure piston clearance it alright.
Pretty sure its pull start only, tho you could cheat and take the backing plate out, press or drill the brass bushing out, get it alloy welded and remachine the face where the con rod sits against.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=OSMG2112&P=OW
Last edited by GenReaper; 03-03-2008 at 10:14 PM.
#3
i dont quite understand the 2nd part about heat pressing or something.
i understand that im going to have to do some grinding
i've got a heavily used crank im going to experiment with on grinding when i get the backplate so i dont mess up my good cranks.
im not sure if that front bearing is the right size, i may be wrong.
according to others the bearings for the trx 2.5 fit the os .18tm to
im not wanting to replace bearings with stock bearing, i'll be upgrading bearings of course.
but the rear bearing for the trx is 7 x 17 x 5
i understand that im going to have to do some grinding
i've got a heavily used crank im going to experiment with on grinding when i get the backplate so i dont mess up my good cranks.
im not sure if that front bearing is the right size, i may be wrong.
according to others the bearings for the trx 2.5 fit the os .18tm to
im not wanting to replace bearings with stock bearing, i'll be upgrading bearings of course.
but the rear bearing for the trx is 7 x 17 x 5
#5
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Front Bearing SPECS:
Outer Diameter: 19mm
Inner Diameter: 7mm
Thickness: 6mm
Rear Bearing SPECS:
Inner Diameter: 12mm
Outer Diameter: 21mm
Thickness: 5mm
Wait till some one else posts about the backing plate, i am unsure if the TZ plate is compatible so best ask some one else, i would think it would be the same if you grind the nub off the back of your crank that the rotor start shaft hooks into.
Yes i am tanking about the plugging the standard backing plate, tho you would need to make up the extra distance with alloy weld as the rotor start shaft has a thickness of about 3 mm that hooks into the crank. You would need to put a straight edge on the back of your engine blockand measure the depth from the edge of the conrod to the backing plate face and make sure that the modified plate has the same depth with no more than 1mm to spare. So the conrod doesnt fall off the crank pin. It will require some one to mill the backing plate after it is welded up and could be more cost effective to buy a TZ backing plate if it is compatible.
Ill go take a photo of one i modified myself and show you, gimme bit and ill post it up.
Outer Diameter: 19mm
Inner Diameter: 7mm
Thickness: 6mm
Rear Bearing SPECS:
Inner Diameter: 12mm
Outer Diameter: 21mm
Thickness: 5mm
Wait till some one else posts about the backing plate, i am unsure if the TZ plate is compatible so best ask some one else, i would think it would be the same if you grind the nub off the back of your crank that the rotor start shaft hooks into.
Yes i am tanking about the plugging the standard backing plate, tho you would need to make up the extra distance with alloy weld as the rotor start shaft has a thickness of about 3 mm that hooks into the crank. You would need to put a straight edge on the back of your engine blockand measure the depth from the edge of the conrod to the backing plate face and make sure that the modified plate has the same depth with no more than 1mm to spare. So the conrod doesnt fall off the crank pin. It will require some one to mill the backing plate after it is welded up and could be more cost effective to buy a TZ backing plate if it is compatible.
Ill go take a photo of one i modified myself and show you, gimme bit and ill post it up.
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
My camera is dodgey but here you go
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20001.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20002.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20003.jpg
I drilled the brass bushing out and fitted an alloy plug that i cut and ground to shape, it is pressed into the hole you drill out.
If the bush comes out you only need a plug the size of the hole or get it welded and milled down to suit.
Then on the back side i also drilled it out and pressed a core plug "Welsch plug" used in engine car blocks. I pressed that into the back side to make sure it didnt leak any air.
I know it might look rough but it lasted the life of the engine i was using till it wore out.
I had to make sure the piston would not hit the plug i made when it was it bottom dead centre and bobs your uncle.
If you are not very good at making stuff i suggest you get some one else to do it or wait to see if anyone has a better idea.
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20001.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20002.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Back%20003.jpg
I drilled the brass bushing out and fitted an alloy plug that i cut and ground to shape, it is pressed into the hole you drill out.
If the bush comes out you only need a plug the size of the hole or get it welded and milled down to suit.
Then on the back side i also drilled it out and pressed a core plug "Welsch plug" used in engine car blocks. I pressed that into the back side to make sure it didnt leak any air.
I know it might look rough but it lasted the life of the engine i was using till it wore out.
I had to make sure the piston would not hit the plug i made when it was it bottom dead centre and bobs your uncle.
If you are not very good at making stuff i suggest you get some one else to do it or wait to see if anyone has a better idea.