Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure they are 3mm.

8536 and 8537 are the correct bulkheads.
8538 is for the oval car and will NOT work with the on-road pod!
Correct numbers for the other R5.1 parts are
4687 Motor mount standoff
4688 Graphite shock mount

We do not have the parts available yet. They should be out soon.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Does anyone know whether it is possible to get rear hubs which are narrower than the standard ones? Im looking to get the rear wheels narrower and have already taken out all the shims.

Thanks,
Martin

HappyHippo

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Sean

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

4608 is narrower than the original kit hub. You can also file or grind off some of the clamp hub to make it narrower.
Which wheel brand are you using?
How narrow are you trying to get?

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

DoH! just ordered some stuff and couldve got the 4608 wheel hub. Was actually wondering if the part number was listed wrong in the manual like the diff rings.

Thanks for the reply yeah i was thinking about grinding it down but it seemed a little dodgy to me. At least the left side i should be able to grind down safely.

As for the tyres i have some speedminds and they seem to be a little wide on the standard axle
My friend runs a BMI and he reckons its fine on his car but on the r5 it definitely stick out side of the body but only fractionally maybe about 1 mm.

EricF

Sean Cochran-
With the Speed 12 body when would you find it helpful or necesary to use the gurney flap?
Thanks,
E

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Are all the parts needed, besides the ones above, be available as a conversion kit?

InspGadgt

Are the king pins then a metric diameter as well or the standard 1/8"?

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

I will add a third to the Gold shock spring with a blue side spring. Very nice balance of on/off power steering and side bite. More consistent and easier to drive.

I like a lighter shock setup for some reason. 20wt side with 35 shock. Picked up a tenth when going from 25wt to 20wt. Also 20k instead of 30k on king pins. I was running black front and pink rears. .5mm pod droop. 3.0mm ride height f/r. Still have the .018s in and no plan to pull them either. Was Very happy with the car. It only fell off .2 a run. I just have to find 2 more tenths and its all good !!

One thing, every lipo car I have run has worn the front tires more than the rear. This car is the first car to wear the rear tires more.

DK

HaraR40

iTrader: (33)

finally got my batteries so now my 12R5 is complete. i am running it as it came from the kit but i do have all the rear ride height adjusters.

Are people running drag brake or normal brake with the 1/12ths. i heard drag brake but i never used it so i'm not sure if i should start and get used to it or just stick with normal brakes.

I have started with a rollout of 53mm for my 10.5. hope this is not too high. i am still waiting on some pinions to get here if i need to lower this.

what are people using to measure the diameter of there rear tires accurately?

i love how this thing drives..... so much cooler than 1/10th tourer i had

rain for the next week here though. and no indoor track yet

HaraR40

iTrader: (33)

also,
i bought a kimbrough spur gear with 12 balls fitted. i left 12 in where the kit only has 6 in the spur. does it matter that i have 12 or should i pull 6 out?

thanks

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

I use calipers to measure the tires. You can get them pretty cheap.
Yes, run as many balls in the spur as you can get away with. The more you have the more power your diff can take. It add's a touch of weight but a no slip diff that works like butter is what you have to have.

DK

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I've noticed the same on the tire wear. Ideally I would like to get it more equal as I would spend less time managing tire sizes on the truer. I may have to give the lighter side dampening another try.

Some people like drag brake and other's don't. With a 10.5 I would probably would use some drag brake, but it would also depend on the track layout. Some only use drag brake but others only use push brake and then some others like to use both.

I don't get the privilege of racing with a 10.5 so I don't know the range of gearing people are using for those motors. You will find that gearing is dependent on track size and layout, esc, motor type and your personal driving style. I've seen motors of the same type and brand require up to 5mm in rollout differences to be equally fast on the track with the same driver and esc. You should use gearing recommendations on RCTech as just that, recommendations, and use practice and race data to find your optimium roll-out by gearing for best laptimes. I do not gear by heat, only laptimes. Check your heat to make sure you arn't going to blow a motor but always gear for laptimes.

Most people use calipers to measure tire size. You can get a cheap digital set at Harbor Freight that works well for fairly cheap.

HaraR40

iTrader: (33)

yeah i have a set of vernier calipers... might get a cheap 6inch set to fit in my rc toolbox.

What is the safe max temp i can go with my motor? so obviously going as hot as you safely can doesnt mean its the fastest then.

I'll play around with brakes and see whats the best. i might leave it on drag brake for a while and see if i can adjust to it.

what is the max ride height i should go? the track is asphalt and has one largeish bump in it that cant be avoided. i want to go as high as i can without loosing handling performance so that i dont scratch the hell out of my chassis. i was thinking 5.5mm front and rear? is this too much?

thanks for your help
Alex

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

I don't normally run one on carpet. I would use it anytime there is low grip, usually on slick asphalt tracks.

I don't think they are planning to make a conversion. I think they will just offer the parts seperate.

The king pins are still 1/8th.