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Old 10-07-2009, 08:01 AM
  #1651  
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Originally Posted by cmenard
After a 15 year hiatus from 1/12th scale, I've got a couple runs under my belt now with the 12r5. Here's what I've found so far. I started out with Sean's last LiPo setup and began making changes from there. The center shock (gold spring)and the side shock I have 40wt Losi in them and the car seems much more driveable now. Gold side springs seemed too much but the blues with some tension on them are pretty solid with this combination. Anyone else running this much dampening in their cars?

I've had some trouble with the yellow rear tires as well. They have great bite but after trying a set of greys the car felt more neutral and stable. The yellows want to roll the rubber off the rims after a few runs too. Is there something that I might be doing wrong or over looking? These are JACO's tires.

Thanks,
Curtis

Glad to see that your back racing RC again, Curtis
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:28 AM
  #1652  
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Originally Posted by Mr Granone
Sean,

Do you leave room for the ackerman adjusters or do you just move it all the way forward?
No it has to all the forward to get enough room to drill new holes. It almost touches the arm blkhead on the right. IF you were to flip it over to the other side of the car you might have more flexibilty in mounting positions.
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:39 PM
  #1653  
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Originally Posted by cmenard
After a 15 year hiatus from 1/12th scale, I've got a couple runs under my belt now with the 12r5. Here's what I've found so far. I started out with Sean's last LiPo setup and began making changes from there. The center shock (gold spring)and the side shock I have 40wt Losi in them and the car seems much more driveable now. Gold side springs seemed too much but the blues with some tension on them are pretty solid with this combination. Anyone else running this much dampening in their cars?

I've had some trouble with the yellow rear tires as well. They have great bite but after trying a set of greys the car felt more neutral and stable. The yellows want to roll the rubber off the rims after a few runs too. Is there something that I might be doing wrong or over looking? These are JACO's tires.

Thanks,
Curtis

What up Curtis Menard? Good to see ya back bro.

Ian
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:31 AM
  #1654  
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quick question guys.

Does anyone use a hitec servo in their 12R5. My mate has the hitec servo programmer thing and uses hitec in his tourers. can any of the smaller 12th scale hitec servo's be programmed with this device.

If so, what model? otherwise what model (non programmable) is good for hitec?

thanks
Alex
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:49 AM
  #1655  
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Originally Posted by HaraR40
quick question guys.

Does anyone use a hitec servo in their 12R5. My mate has the hitec servo programmer thing and uses hitec in his tourers. can any of the smaller 12th scale hitec servo's be programmed with this device.

If so, what model? otherwise what model (non programmable) is good for hitec?

thanks
Alex
I've been using a 225mg for a few years with great performance.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:32 AM
  #1656  
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
What up Curtis Menard? Good to see ya back bro.

Ian
Dude how've you been? Figured it was time to get out of the dirt since we have a nice and stable carpet track in town..
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:42 AM
  #1657  
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Originally Posted by speed-e
I've been using a 225mg for a few years with great performance.
cheers bloke.. i am the mate..

i beleive that servo is not digital.. is that correct?

really i only want digital as i have a programmer, but i spose a standard servo will work just as well.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:09 AM
  #1658  
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Default HITEC digital servo

K.. after some research

Hitec HS-5245MG seems like the digital way to go for these girls.

Should only take 2 weeks to get here..

LOL
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:21 PM
  #1659  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson
I put the new POD on my 12r5 this past weekend for the first time at the ROAR Nationals. I must say the car was dialed with it. All the room for the motor was awesome. It seems like the new top plate moves the center shock mount forward a bit. Sean would have to say for sure though.
I installed a new rear pod on my car last week too. I took the time to identify all the geometry/specification differences between the older wide pod, and the new 12r5.1 pod. The only geometry difference is the height of the top plate. The mount for the center shock is identical fore/aft and left/right as is the mount for the side shock fore/aft and left/right. The only difference is that the pods are 2 mm shorter than the older pod plates which lowers the top plate 2 mm. If you have the 2mm spacer installed under the center shock ball stud on the upper pod plate the only difference left is that the outer side shock mount is 2 mm lower than it used to be. This won't affect handling in any way that I can see; it does however make it easier to mount certain bodies without the upper pod plate rubbing on the body. HTH
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:07 AM
  #1660  
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Default Front Arm Length

Question for Sean:

I see from yours and Matsukura's IIC setups that you are lengthening the front ends by shimming either or both the lower and upper arms. In your case, the lower only by 2mm which with the necessary turnbuckle adjustment is going to widen your whole front (top arms and wheelbase--absent axle shims and wheel offsets) by 2mm. Matsukura did top and bottom for a total wheelbase increase of 1mm and top arm increase of 3mm.

The hot upgrade with the new Gen XL seems to be the long arms, so obviously something is in the air. From the IIC and club racing have you identified some general rules that might be applied to the adjustments? You started with shimming the top arms in, but now you've shifted to the bottom arms, effectively widening the whole front. Naoto a mix of each. I certainly don't mind doing my own testing, but I am interested in what you've discovered. Might you indulge your francophile side (Sure it works in practice, but does it work in theory?) for the general benefit?

BTW, I really think the new front end is turning out to be awesome. So much easy tuning in what is really a fairly simple design.

Last edited by PutAwayWet; 10-09-2009 at 10:34 AM. Reason: D'oh! Had Naoto's setup reversed.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:38 AM
  #1661  
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Originally Posted by Stangas
K.. after some research

Hitec HS-5245MG seems like the digital way to go for these girls.

Should only take 2 weeks to get here..

LOL
I can't remember if I was using that particular Hitec servo, but the digital mini servo I had didn't fit right.If your using the servo mounts the body of the servo isn't wide enough to fit properly. Check the dimensions !! If your attaching the servo directly to the chassis, never mind.

I found the digital servo from Futaba works best. Not what your looking for, but it better than nothing. Maybe somebody else has a better suggestion?
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:41 AM
  #1662  
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Default Thru Shaft

Can anybody tell me if I can use a different shaft in place of the graphite shaft in the rear?

Last edited by buzzlitebeer; 10-12-2009 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:11 AM
  #1663  
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>>>

Last edited by cmenard; 10-12-2009 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:22 AM
  #1664  
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never mind my mistake.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:05 PM
  #1665  
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+1
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