SERPENT 120
#677
this kit have what different ?
#678
those look like the offset steering nuckles from the picture. everything else looks the same as kit
#679
Tech Regular
Hello guys:
That kit has NO difference from the parts at the S120, is jus a kit for those that want to make their own version of their 1/12 from other brands.
That kit has NO difference from the parts at the S120, is jus a kit for those that want to make their own version of their 1/12 from other brands.
#680
#681
According to the press release on Serpent's Web site, "The set includes inch-type alu inserts, as many other brands still use that." Other than that, the rest of the parts are the same. Are the inch-type inserts 8-32 thread?
#682
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
I've started building my 120 and I have a question. The assembly of the front end shows the shoulder of the pivot ball facing up in one picture and down in another. What is the proper orientation of the pivot ball?
Carbon Joe - What degree caster blocks did Paul put on your car? 3 degrees or 6 degrees?
Carbon Joe - What degree caster blocks did Paul put on your car? 3 degrees or 6 degrees?
#683
Tech Regular
#684
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
I don't have the means to copy a photo of it, so I'll try to explain it. On page 7 of the serpent manual it shows an illistration of how the front pivot balls are installed into the lower arms with the shoulder of the pivot ball facing up. But on pages 8, 9, and 10 it shows the balls with the shoulder facing down. the question is, which way is the correct way? Shoulder up or down?
#685
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Edgar,
I think what they are saying is that on page #7, the picture shows the lip on the pivot ball facing upwards. On page #10, when you are looking through the arms, it looks like the lip or shoulder is facing downwards.
On most other frontends (non Serpent), the pivot ball lip would go upwards when placed in the lower arm.
Steve
I think what they are saying is that on page #7, the picture shows the lip on the pivot ball facing upwards. On page #10, when you are looking through the arms, it looks like the lip or shoulder is facing downwards.
On most other frontends (non Serpent), the pivot ball lip would go upwards when placed in the lower arm.
Steve
#686
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
kobiwan,
Thinking about it for a second, I am sure the lip goes upward. From the pictures if you put the lip downward in the arm then the steering block would drag on the arm. If you put the lip upward then it would have a much smoother surface to ride on. This is the reason why on other front ends too.
Steve
Thinking about it for a second, I am sure the lip goes upward. From the pictures if you put the lip downward in the arm then the steering block would drag on the arm. If you put the lip upward then it would have a much smoother surface to ride on. This is the reason why on other front ends too.
Steve
#687
Tech Regular
OK, I just saw what you mean. I have it upward, like Corally said. Mobers is on the way back to his house, but when I had a chance I will ask him.
#688
Ok guys...just woke up from trying to get some sleep back after the Snowbirds. I wanted to thank Serpent and Serpent America for all their support and for providing me with a GREAT 12th scale car.
I ended up 11th but would have been in the main solidly if it weren't for some power issues that got a figured out a little too late.
I'll have the setup on the site soon...
Butter
P.S. the pivot ball on the front arms needs to be bevel up.
I ended up 11th but would have been in the main solidly if it weren't for some power issues that got a figured out a little too late.
I'll have the setup on the site soon...
Butter
P.S. the pivot ball on the front arms needs to be bevel up.
#689
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Hello,
I got my kit and started the front end. I am a very slow builder, but here are some feedback items so far. Also please do not get me wrong I am very happy with what I am getting in the kit. I just see room to improve some small details that would make the kit better. You can take them for what they are worth and file them in the trash if need be.
1) Cutting the chassis for the cells to sit as low as possible is standard on most kits. However these days we see better plastic molding then ever. My suggestion would be to cut the slots wider and include inserts that will allow the cells to sit as low as possible. This is not original in any sense but it is practical.
2) The kingpins and pivot balls have been talked about in depth. The only frontend I have liked in 12th for sometime now is the CRC Pro-strut. The reason being the kingpins and Darlin pivot balls. Reasons for liking them over what is in the s120. First fit and finish are spot on. Second the adjustment is done via a .050" hex on the bottom of the kingpin. This means that you don't have anything to alter the travel and suspesion performance. The notches in the S120 kingpins are a bit crude. There are issues with flashing from the cuts that have to be taken care of. Also you still feel the notches effect travel once you get it all sorted. Now I know this has been an issue so I am hoping that these comments could help in the revision of the mentioned items.
Please don't feel that I am bashing this very fine car. Markus, you did very well on the car. I feel the manufacturing of your vision is in ways lacking. With all that said I look forward to finishing the build. I will offer feedback on the rest of the build as I finish sections. Hope you don't mind.
I got my kit and started the front end. I am a very slow builder, but here are some feedback items so far. Also please do not get me wrong I am very happy with what I am getting in the kit. I just see room to improve some small details that would make the kit better. You can take them for what they are worth and file them in the trash if need be.
1) Cutting the chassis for the cells to sit as low as possible is standard on most kits. However these days we see better plastic molding then ever. My suggestion would be to cut the slots wider and include inserts that will allow the cells to sit as low as possible. This is not original in any sense but it is practical.
2) The kingpins and pivot balls have been talked about in depth. The only frontend I have liked in 12th for sometime now is the CRC Pro-strut. The reason being the kingpins and Darlin pivot balls. Reasons for liking them over what is in the s120. First fit and finish are spot on. Second the adjustment is done via a .050" hex on the bottom of the kingpin. This means that you don't have anything to alter the travel and suspesion performance. The notches in the S120 kingpins are a bit crude. There are issues with flashing from the cuts that have to be taken care of. Also you still feel the notches effect travel once you get it all sorted. Now I know this has been an issue so I am hoping that these comments could help in the revision of the mentioned items.
Please don't feel that I am bashing this very fine car. Markus, you did very well on the car. I feel the manufacturing of your vision is in ways lacking. With all that said I look forward to finishing the build. I will offer feedback on the rest of the build as I finish sections. Hope you don't mind.
#690
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
2) The kingpins and pivot balls have been talked about in depth. The only frontend I have liked in 12th for sometime now is the CRC Pro-strut. The reason being the kingpins and Darlin pivot balls. Reasons for liking them over what is in the s120. First fit and finish are spot on. Second the adjustment is done via a .050" hex on the bottom of the kingpin. This means that you don't have anything to alter the travel and suspesion performance. The notches in the S120 kingpins are a bit crude. There are issues with flashing from the cuts that have to be taken care of. Also you still feel the notches effect travel once you get it all sorted. Now I know this has been an issue so I am hoping that these comments could help in the revision of the mentioned items.
1) They are now the proper diameter and fit the factory pivot balls.
2) The wrench slots have been removed and are now installed/adjusted using a 1.5mm hex wrench.