Team Magic E4 Thread
11-07-2009, 10:50 AM
#2656
Are you going to run brushed or brushless? if brushless, no many choices you have for motor mounting space, I can only use LRP and Novak to have more space for adjustment, if you are gonna run brushed, then it doesn't matter what kind. Make sure you check every screw is properly tight and in place, mine got one missing screw when it arroved
11-07-2009, 01:06 PM
#2657
Thanks ! I'll be running BL 17.5 Novak. Car was bought used although it's in perfect shape. I need a manual though so I may not try to run it until after I get one. Great looking car though and If I like this one I'll probably get the RS soon. In the meantime...time to upgrade things like turnbuckles, sway bars and maybe get the alloy kit from Wolf Hobbies. Just want to add stuff that's reasonable and may make it stronger or perform better. Really like this version though. Love the way the battery goes in and my Zippy hard packs fit great with easy access to the plugs.
11-07-2009, 06:51 PM
#2658
I don't know if upgrade is necessary for E4JS. I have both E4RS and E4JS, I built them at the same time and always run both at the track. They have been on the track for more than 10 times and hit the wall pretty bad few times, but I didn't break anything. So it looks to me JS is as strong as RS. I would say the only major difference is one is plastic tub chassis another is carbon fiber, so JS will twist a little more than RS in corners. One thing I will try to improve is the sloppy feeling on both front and rear suspension linkage as well as steering linkage. I also noticed that JS has a little longer wheel base than RS by about 1.5 mm.
11-07-2009, 08:21 PM
#2659
Yes...quality of car is very good but I definitely want to upgrade turnbuckles. The small stock units are not to my liking. Many of my Tamiya cars had the same and they were very difficult to use soooo....I will be looking to get pieces with larger head area. The sway bars are just a tuning aid and the alloy.....a little bling never hurts ! 
11-08-2009, 03:41 AM
#2660
Tech Adept
About the motor clearance, you can also use Team Orion Vortex Race BL motor.
The previous Orion Vortex (Feigao) is a bit longer so trouble may appear but the current and latest version is fine.
Slide
The previous Orion Vortex (Feigao) is a bit longer so trouble may appear but the current and latest version is fine.
Slide
11-10-2009, 02:50 PM
#2664
Tech Apprentice
We have posted this before but as a reminder: If the total number of teeth on your pinion and spur add up to 140 -150 then the motor will be in the middle of its adjustment range. This leave plenty of room for making track and condition adusments
11-11-2009, 08:39 AM
#2665
I have the E4JS. I'm looking for front arms that are stiffer than the ones I got are the ones for the FS made of a stiffer material? I'm trying to eliminate front end slop. Already shimmed the suspension as much as possible and updated to the alum. 3deg carriers.
11-11-2009, 08:44 AM
#2666
Yes, it is a good car, hope you like it Are you going to run brushed or brushless? if brushless, no many choices you have for motor mounting space, I can only use LRP and Novak to have more space for adjustment, if you are gonna run brushed, then it doesn't matter what kind. Make sure you check every screw is properly tight and in place, mine got one missing screw when it arroved
Are you going to run brushed or brushless? if brushless, no many choices you have for motor mounting space, I can only use LRP and Novak to have more space for adjustment, if you are gonna run brushed, then it doesn't matter what kind. Make sure you check every screw is properly tight and in place, mine got one missing screw when it arroved
11-11-2009, 08:52 AM
#2667
Yes...quality of car is very good but I definitely want to upgrade turnbuckles. The small stock units are not to my liking. Many of my Tamiya cars had the same and they were very difficult to use soooo....I will be looking to get pieces with larger head area. The sway bars are just a tuning aid and the alloy.....a little bling never hurts !
Don't bother with the other alum. bulkhead pieces because they're not necessary, the chassis is stiff enough for what it is. Any more than that, then you might as well get the '09 RS.
11-11-2009, 09:54 AM
#2668
Hi,
I need some help. I´m driving the E4RS08(13.5T) on carpet with very low grip-level, so the rear of my car is very loose.
Can you give me some advice to resolve the problem? I have made the rear a little bit softer, but it does not really work.
I need some help. I´m driving the E4RS08(13.5T) on carpet with very low grip-level, so the rear of my car is very loose.
Can you give me some advice to resolve the problem? I have made the rear a little bit softer, but it does not really work.
11-11-2009, 11:01 AM
#2669
More rear toe in (I use -3* sometimes)
Less droop on the rear
More camber on rear (-2*)
This one is odd but I recently had experience...make sure you are not putting too much drag braking on your speedo. I had mine set on 50% and when I let go on throttle, it give me enough brake that gave my car the fish tail...reset it back to 35%~40% problem solved.
11-11-2009, 01:19 PM
#2670
Try the TM springs and then purple front and the pinkish at the rear for indoor.
Lots of tracktion and no roll if you use the front swaybar(no rear swaybar).
I use Tamiya 400 oil in the shocks front and rear with standard pistons in the shocks,epa steering at 65% and sorex 28 front and sorex 24 at the rear.
If you can use it prepair your tire with tracktion fluid on the rear complete and at the front just the inside part of the tire and i also use tire warmers when permitted.
Camber rear at 3 degrees and front at 1.5 degrees.
Rear turnbuckles on the inside position on the hubs and 2 spacer rings on the bulkhead side to get them horizontal.
Shocks rear at them most inside position at the top and front on the outside.
Toe in rear at 2.5 and front neutral
This all will get you more grip on the rear.
I also run a 13.5 GM with lipo and it isn't loose.
cheers Roy
Lots of tracktion and no roll if you use the front swaybar(no rear swaybar).
I use Tamiya 400 oil in the shocks front and rear with standard pistons in the shocks,epa steering at 65% and sorex 28 front and sorex 24 at the rear.
If you can use it prepair your tire with tracktion fluid on the rear complete and at the front just the inside part of the tire and i also use tire warmers when permitted.
Camber rear at 3 degrees and front at 1.5 degrees.
Rear turnbuckles on the inside position on the hubs and 2 spacer rings on the bulkhead side to get them horizontal.
Shocks rear at them most inside position at the top and front on the outside.
Toe in rear at 2.5 and front neutral
This all will get you more grip on the rear.
I also run a 13.5 GM with lipo and it isn't loose.
cheers Roy