going4#1

Well said cdelong. Check it out

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight

The highlight of the article:

Bumps and surface imperfections in the road cause tire compression--which induces a force on the unsprung weight. In time, the unsprung weight then responds to this force with movement of its own. The amount of movement is inversely proportional to the weight - a lighter wheel which readily moves in response to road bumps will have more grip when tracking over an imperfect road. For this reason, lighter wheels are often sought for high-performance applications. In contrast, a heavier wheel which moves less will not absorb as much vibration; the irregularities of the road surface will transfer to the cabin through the geometry of the suspension and hence ride quality is deteriorated.

The inverse proportional relationship is where you really win on lighter unsprung weight. With sprung weight relationships are proportional.

Still, you can't ignore weight in any form. The more you carry (sprung or unsprung) the more your momentum increases as your speed increases. That means longer to brake/accelerate and more force required to turn. So, does the BLS's increased torque compensate for the added momentum at identical speeds? Maybe it does. Combined with a longer lifespan and lower current draw, this servo's weight disadvantage may be canceled out.

Now I got to figure out how to fit the Evolva's lightweight axles on my 960 . . . .

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

knowing what I do about unsprung and sprung weight, I will say this....

I don't chase weight around. My car is what it is.... every national I have been to, it tips the scale about 25g overweight. Maybe it's those damn servos?? I never purposely buy lightweight stuff- maybe a front shaft, or one way when I need it (but thats doubling the weight reduction with minimal cost- rotating mass and its cheap!!). I will not spend $90 for pillow balls, but I would spend $5 extra for a titanium front shaft or lightweight one way- maybe even a body. See where I'm going with this??

Anyways... for an intermediate driver (myself and most here), practice will do you more than shaving 25g off your car. I used to overdrive the car when I was a newb.... now, I rarely squeeze the trigger all the way and I stay clean. Imagine- my lap times have improved and I don't have any titanium on my car, nor the lightest servos.

I have run digitals since day one... no issues. Maybe it's dumb luck? Set the endpoints correctly and minimal useage of brakes will help you out. The damage done do digitals is when they are STILL or STALLED COMPLETELY. Be sure to set your throttle servo perfectly on the endpoints. I go back 5 clicks on full throttle- ie.- if full throttle is 65% on my endpoint, I will set it to 60%. You will never notice the 5 clicks and your servo will never stall at WOT pulling against your engine block. Brake is the same thing- except I always use ABS with a high frequency.... lot of cycling movement and little delay- maybe 0.2- 0.5 seconds at the most.

In summary, with digitals, keep the servos moving and do not let them stall

NOVICE4EVER

Guys thanks for all the tips you contribute. Just to inform you what servo i decided to get "ko 2413 and futaba 9550"
I put my ko 2413 on my steering and my 9550 to my throttle.
for the reason i let "japan" do the steering and "taiwan" do the breaking
(their manufacturer )

Any comments or suggestions regarding the setup of the two servos will be highly appreciated. (did i dedicated the two servos right? )

badKarma

i decided on the BLS451 for steering and the S9452 for throttle...that should do the trick with no fuss...

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

but some have..

going4#1

Scott, I'm thinking of the same regulator, the Novak 3A. But some say a 5A is the better choice. It's more expensive but why would it be 'better'?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

It isn't any better if you don't draw more than 3amps. Think of it in terms of a regular fuse. If you have a 3 amp fuse and your servos don't draw more than 3 amps, then it is just fine. If something happens and you draw 5 amps, then you may toast the 3 amp regulator whereas the 5 amp will not burn. The 5 amp regulator will handle more current. I would think nitro offroad that would be more important, but it doesn't hurt to get the higher capacity regulator.

rcabj

iTrader: (1)

just got a used KO 2343 digital servo, i put it on to the steering on my 1/10 touring....i have never use a digtal servo before, had a few tanks tryin it out, i can feel the sharpness and fast precise responses on my steering..so does the centering was superb. hope i can be better next race..

Rawz

Hey guys. I notice that the 9551 are a no go yet! Anyone could report on why ?
Will it be pushed yet again, or late march is right ?
I am thinking about the KO low profile by now, but thats 40 USD more!

E.Rocha

hey boludo! this is correct = spelling "bee" look who don't know spelling you write spelling "be"

meon99

iTrader: (77)

hi guys, lately, i have this problem.....

I have a JR z8450 digital cordless servo and running along with a 3pk spektrum, i always have a buzz sounds coming out from the 8450. IS THAT SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE SERVO? This is my 1st digital servo I am running, i am always on analog servos, Do I need something different set up on my 3pk in order to run digital servos? Thanks in advance.

Saint728

iTrader: (10)

There is nothing wrong with your servo, that is what digital servos sound like. They make that noise because they are trying to find center. If there is any resistance they will make a buzzing noise. This is normal for throttle/brake servos because there usually is a spring on the pushrod and that causes resistance or pushing on the servo.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patick

meon99

iTrader: (77)

I am using it on the steering, and it feels like it is always running once it was turned on, but it is not actually moving, .....

Saint728

iTrader: (10)

It doesn't really matter where you use it they still make noise. If you have a brand new servo and it is making noise just wiggle your front wheels with your hand or with the transmitter. Once it finds center it will stop buzzing. It really doesn't matter if it makes noise, you can't hear it when your driving.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

meon99

iTrader: (77)

I just feel weird when i hear the sounds while i am setting up the car...... i still feel like running those analog servos,...... in the old days....