Hot Rod RAC3R8

ya,
Car: the losi is a good car
Motor: either get a go 5 port or an O.S. VZB (v-spec)
Pipe: get a jp3,4,1,or 2 depending on what track you run on weather it's big, small, or medium

vthondaboi

Well I stopped by JCG today and went ahead and ordered an X-Ray.

Mike there is a Werks driver so I decided to get a B3 to get started off with and he said he'll be glad to help me with it. Are they ok engines? A little pricey compared to a GO but I figure local support makes up for that.

free2day77

iTrader: (2)

replace the rear bearing as they go out very quickly and will snap the crank... seen it many times

Steebo

iTrader: (17)

Ok... I have an rc8 and was wondering about the extended motor mount? is this a must have? does it just support the flex where the clutch bell is?

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

Hmmmm... ok. Be sure to keep a careful watch on the rear bearing. 3 of my "teammates" have run the B3. One broke 2 cranks... the other broke a piston skirt. All because of the bearing issue. Good engines, tons of power, but if the bearing goes it destroys stuff quick. However, they are pretty good about support, and Mike is helpful. Note that this hasn't been the problem with the B7 Pro. The bearing is different... and I believe you can put the bearing for the B7 in the B3. Not positive about that though.

BTW since you are new to the hobby... that's Mike Battaile... 2005 national champion in monster trucks. The local rumor is, put 4 wheels on a trashcan and Mike will find a way to win with it. He's a genetic freak, he can drive ANYTHING fast. (No, that isn't intended to bash Mike OR his current factory cars/trucks.) He is currently the US Team Manager for Caster Racing. I'm surprised he didn't encourage you to get a Caster. (Which seems to be a decent car, although new to the market and still undergoing some development.)

As for the X-ray... like I said, GREAT car, better parts quality than anyone. Now you'll have a hard time ever allowing yourself to change to another car.

I'll introduce you to Tommy Tang. He used to be an Xray sponsored driver, he can help with setup.

Don't second guess yourself on your choices... sounds like you have a good package coming together.

Brad

vthondaboi

yea I second guess myself a lot when initially making purchases, especially when this one adds up well past a grand

but would you buy a kit knowing that a newer generation is coming out and your kit won't be upgradeable to it?

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

Ok, a few more suggestions:

Servo: The hot ticket around here is the Hitec 5955TG (that's a digital, titanium geared high speed servo with over 200 oz of torque.) They'll work for steering AND throttle... about $120

Batteries: You need to decide if you are going with regular batteries (cheaper, and don't need a "special" charger) or LiPo. (more expensive, take a special charger and a regulator to keep from putting too much power to your RX) I'd use the 12V battery in the starter box... it lasts longer between charges.

Charger: If you get regular batteries, I suggest getting the Duratrax Pirhana charger. Cheap (about $50) and programmable. I can use mine to do my TX batteries, RX battery, starter box battery, glow ignitor, and still have "spaces" to program in extra things like my friend's radio batteries (his are different capacity than mine)

Glow igniter: There is a nice one with a meter on it from Racer's Edge. JCG probably has those, but if not, you can order them online. However you don't HAVE to do that. Get one that "locks on" with a lever that you pull instead of the kind you twist to lock on.

Get a fuel filter. Cheap protection for your motor.

Get spare glow plugs, at least a couple.

Get a temp gauge.

When you get ready to break in your motor, you will want a heat gun. Heat the crankcase up to about 200 degrees before you even try to start it. If you need help with break-in let me know, we can assist, and I have a good heat gun.

Clutch: Xray and Mugen parts are compatible... and it is a great setup.

Pipe: Sorry, I don't know. I run a JP2. Not sure for that motor what will work best.

Wheels and tires: Werks wheels. Stronger and more durable than the OFNA ones, and cheaper than ProLine. Tires: Driver's choice, different things work better in different track conditions. Pro-Line Bowties are a good all around tire, as are Panther Komodo Dragons and Werks Lugz.

Shock and diff fluids: Better ask someone that runs an Xray what a good "friendly" setup is for that car.