Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite
In my experience the Manta Ray Diff, and the TA03 diff both strip the splines out. The last one I had to replace stripped the splines off the diff and the cups. I was hoping the new M-05 diff woud address this issue, and remedy this problem.
Is tamiya's engineers going to redesign the M05 diff again, or are there remedies to make the current M05 diff work with more aggressive racing??
I like the looks of the new design, and I'm disappointed to hear that it isn't working that great.
Thanks
Is tamiya's engineers going to redesign the M05 diff again, or are there remedies to make the current M05 diff work with more aggressive racing??
I like the looks of the new design, and I'm disappointed to hear that it isn't working that great.
Thanks
Sometimes, the single black o-ring allows too much slop. You can cut fuel tubing and use that. Put the tubing inside a piece of brass tubing and you can cut some very precise lengths of tubing. Just let it extend past the end of the brass tubing and use a razor blade to cut off. Disadvantage here is that you do need to check and replace every so often.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
...
ya it only the outdrive splines that are stripped not the actual diff itself.... I tightened the diff right up when I built it and then checked the other night when I took it apart and it was still nice and tight... oh and i had put extra spacer in the outdrives as i read on here that it seemed to help....and I am running the cvds as well
kinda bummed out that I spent as much on it as I did and it only essentially worked maybe half a season
oh well
kinda bummed out that I spent as much on it as I did and it only essentially worked maybe half a season
oh well
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
For medium/large tracks where inside front tire lift is minimal/zero, the M05 ball diff (assembled normally, not cranked tight) works for me. It's very light.
Jilles Groskamp posted an interesting setup, gear diff with nitro cleaning gum. Diff sealed with glue (I guess to prevent gum leakage.)
Jilles Groskamp posted an interesting setup, gear diff with nitro cleaning gum. Diff sealed with glue (I guess to prevent gum leakage.)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
In 8 years of racing, I've only stripped one. The problem lies in letting the outdrives run too loose in the diff. If there is too much slop there, you will strip the splines. Disclaimer here is that I've never run the dog bones so don't know if they can be a factor.
Sometimes, the single black o-ring allows too much slop. You can cut fuel tubing and use that. Put the tubing inside a piece of brass tubing and you can cut some very precise lengths of tubing. Just let it extend past the end of the brass tubing and use a razor blade to cut off. Disadvantage here is that you do need to check and replace every so often.
Sometimes, the single black o-ring allows too much slop. You can cut fuel tubing and use that. Put the tubing inside a piece of brass tubing and you can cut some very precise lengths of tubing. Just let it extend past the end of the brass tubing and use a razor blade to cut off. Disadvantage here is that you do need to check and replace every so often.
The surface I was running on was carpet, with the diff tightened down all the way. Used univesals (Tamiya CVD's), and I've never used the dog bones.
Tech Elite
The initial Manta ray diff stripped the splines off the diff, and the cups. I switched to the hardened diff cups, and a TA03 ball diff, and stripped the splines off of the inside of the diff, and partially off the cups. on the second TA03 ball diff I packed the inside of the splines with AW grease (Kit supplied heavy grease) and it lasted a little longer. I never thought of the tubing trick, I'll have to try that.
The surface I was running on was carpet, with the diff tightened down all the way. Used univesals (Tamiya CVD's), and I've never used the dog bones.
The surface I was running on was carpet, with the diff tightened down all the way. Used univesals (Tamiya CVD's), and I've never used the dog bones.
The first ones I did, used a set of X-ray blades cause they were in the parts box. The "c" is a little long, so they were not a perfect fit, but they worked. Eureka, we had take off. The next set will use the Tamiya ones, part #53890, if you want to try this. BE SURE TO WEAR SOME EYE PROTECTION cause there will be a lot of metal filings in the air.
This is not an original idea of mine cause it's a copy off of Craig Richter's Mini. However, I can recognize a good idea when I see it. He's been running his for about a year with no wear and no stripped splines. It's also been cleared for TCS racing by the TCS race director. At first he said no, then changed his mind and cleared it. But as Veteran TCS racers know, that could all change tomorrow. Even then it's no big deal to switch back and forth.
try these - http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53597 - they say for the M03, but they work on both chassis
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Secret Underground Laboratory
Posts: 2,353
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
They fit fine in my M05 with the M05 ball diff.
Tech Elite
Sorry not sure what "pulpy" part is.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
I built it with AE or HPI diff grease...then tighted the diff all the way down (per Casey's suggestion) and then blue locktight on the screw to keep it from loosening up
Tech Elite
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
I've been running my M05 with the ball diff for a few months and it has held up great. Still smooth and never loosens. I don't have it super tight though either.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Secret Underground Laboratory
Posts: 2,353
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
To be honest with you, Bob, I've only run the darn thing twice & that was in practice. Built up an M05 with every available Tamiya hop-up but then got sidetracked by my buddy RayK with running the M04 instead. That didn't work out so well for me- old dog, new tricks- so I think I will be going back to my M03 for Memphis and possibly working on figuring out the M05 during the summer. But so far...feels good.