288LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-16-2009, 09:37 PM
#9841
Just performed a M05 conversion on my spare stock M03.. very easy to do, maybe $40 of parts and you have a whole new car..
The only 2 tricky parts that you can't take from your M03 are the step screws that hold the steering rack together, and the threaded steering rod. I ended up chopping the heads off of two long 3mm screws and CA gluing them into a Carbon Fiber rod with a 3mm hole. It's solid and very light.
It's incredibly responsive, I'm finding, even just on my street! I have a ball diff in mine, and it's crazy how much rear traction I have now that the servo's back there.
I wonder if people will "fine tune" their rear weight by swapping out different weight servos..
I'm now waiting for a CF/aluminum steering rack that actually uses bearings in the links, and a sway bar kit, since the old one won't work.
The only 2 tricky parts that you can't take from your M03 are the step screws that hold the steering rack together, and the threaded steering rod. I ended up chopping the heads off of two long 3mm screws and CA gluing them into a Carbon Fiber rod with a 3mm hole. It's solid and very light.
It's incredibly responsive, I'm finding, even just on my street! I have a ball diff in mine, and it's crazy how much rear traction I have now that the servo's back there.
I wonder if people will "fine tune" their rear weight by swapping out different weight servos..
I'm now waiting for a CF/aluminum steering rack that actually uses bearings in the links, and a sway bar kit, since the old one won't work.
08-17-2009, 06:53 AM
#9842
sway bars?
also do you think it is worth getting sway bars 4 my mo3?
08-17-2009, 08:11 AM
#9843
Could you post how you converted the M03 to a M05? Did you just buy all the trees? I went on tower and they have an A through F trees. I have an old M03r and was going to retire it and try a M05. If I can convert it and save some money, it would be great. Thanks for any help.
08-17-2009, 08:56 AM
#9844
Could you post how you converted the M03 to a M05? Did you just buy all the trees? I went on tower and they have an A through F trees. I have an old M03r and was going to retire it and try a M05. If I can convert it and save some money, it would be great. Thanks for any help.
But you will need 1 of each of the A parts, B parts, C parts D parts and F parts, a very odd assortment of screws, a 3 x 89 rod for the steering, some droop screws for the sreering Tie Rods, some short 5mm adjusters, and there is a odd screw it is a 3 x 10 step screw.
08-17-2009, 10:06 AM
#9846
Thanks! I now need to find someplace that has the parts in stock.
08-17-2009, 10:36 AM
#9847
Could you post how you converted the M03 to a M05? Did you just buy all the trees? I went on tower and they have an A through F trees. I have an old M03r and was going to retire it and try a M05. If I can convert it and save some money, it would be great. Thanks for any help.
Yup, M05 trees A, B, C, D, and F.. they skipped E for some reason. My shop had one complete set left, so I lucked out. Seemed like I wasn't the only one with that idea..
There's actually very little you need to take from your old mini, I was very surprised. You'll need drivetrain parts.. gears, bearings, outdrives, dogbones, axles. Beyond that, 4 5x8mm bearings for steering, the camber link step screws (or the M-03R ball links, that's fine too - You'll need to decide which manual to use, the Pro if you have the ball links, the stock one otherwise.) You'll also need the suspension pins. Beyond that, the rest of the old car isn't used much. Edit - Forgot to include the ball connectors! Might be hard to attach shocks or steering shafts without them..
You get brand new arms and camber links, uprights and C-hubs from the trees, which is nice. You may need a new servo saver that's short enough, mine wasn't. Shocks are needed as well, though you're welcome to assemble the friction shocks the trees provide..
You just need to decide which uprights to go with. The new ones are 5x11 bearings, but still in the M-03M style. I had the old-school 5x11 uprights, so I just went with the plastic set supplied in the F tree. Their arms are set much higher, eliminating the need for spacers under the ball links. Don't skip the F tree even if you intend to use your own uprights, you need those little bearing holders it includes. I have a feeling they might release a new diff down the road, using different bearings in those larger holes..
I have a plethora of screws in my boxes, so I was fortunate enough to get through with the wacky lengths. The cap screws in the picture I posted earlier were 15mm SS (used at least 15), the rest were mainly 10mm SS button heads (too many to count). I was lucky enough to have spare short ball cups and grub screws for the steering links. I had to dig into my spare TA05 screws to find that one long countersunk screw that goes into the motor mount.
You have to ditch the turnbuckles for 12mm grub screws and short links, but 12mm just doesn't seem long enough. 3mm of space in between leaves only 2mm inside each adjuster, not very strong. I think I'll chop the old turnbuckles short so there's more screw in each adjuster, and the bolt bit in the middle should be just wide enough to accomodate that 3mm of space it needs between links. (I found the 2mm stated in the manual produced a bit too much toe out.)
The step screws for the steering linkage is a funny one, never seen it before.. part 50579.. It's commonly found in TG10/TGX cars, my hobby shop actually had a pack so I was fine. Not sure why they just make the hole bigger and use a regular step screw like we have for the uprights..
Just one build note, the steering posts have a bit of play vertically, allowing for some unwanted rotation of the steering arms making them sloppy. I added a few shims (.4 to .5) to the underside of each arm, just as much as it needs to be screwed down tight. The bottom shims (Tamiya ones, at least) and the bevel at the top mount clamp down on thee bearings' inner race, so there's no binding from overtightening. There's almost no play after that.
The older gear/ball diff outdrives are fine, you don't need the new ones it shows. Also don't worry about the 2.6 and 2mm screws it shows, BC4 and BC5. They're just for the servo and switch mount.
My previous post, http://www.rctech.net/forum/6213250-post9840.html shows the CF steering rod alternative, or there's the 3racing one, or just buy a 3mm threaded rod somewhere.. It might be a while before Tamiya releases the actual rod, but I don't care since my TCS season is done.
Instead of ball links for the steering rod I used those metal tubes you usually put into the shock ends. They come in a stock Mini kit. It just lets me screw it all down tight, and keep the slop to a minimum by not having to pop out the link from the cup.
Last edited by Jam-ehz; 08-17-2009 at 11:35 AM.
08-17-2009, 11:03 AM
#9848
Thankfully the manuals are posted at Tamiyausa for both the Pro hereand Stock versions here, so that makes things MUCH easier
Yup, M05 trees A, B, C, D, and F.. they skipped E for some reason. My shop had one complete set left, so I lucked out. Seemed like I wasn't the only one with that idea..
There's actually very little you need to take from your old mini, I was very surprised. You'll need drivetrain parts.. gears, bearings, outdrives, dogbones, axles. Beyond that, 4 5x8mm bearings for steering, the camber link step screws (or the M-03R ball links, that's fine too - You'll need to decide which manual to use, the Pro if you have the ball links, the stock one otherwise.) You'll also need the suspension pins. Beyond that, the rest of the old car isn't used much.
You get brand new arms and camber links, uprights and C-hubs. You may need a new servo saver that's short enough, mine wasn't. Shocks are needed as well, though you're welcome to assemble the friction shocks the trees provide..
You just need to decide which uprights to go with. The new ones are 5x11 bearings, but still in the M-03M style. I had the old-school 5x11 uprights, so I just went with the plastic set supplied in the F tree. Their arms are set much higher, eliminating the need for spacers under the ball links. Don't skip the F tree even if you intend to use your own uprights, you need those little bearing holders it includes. I have a feeling they might release a new diff down the road, using different bearings in those larger holes..
I have a plethora of screws in my boxes, so I was fortunate enough to get through with the wacky lengths. The cap screws in the picture I posted earlier were 15mm SS (used at least 15), the rest were mainly 10mm SS button heads (too many to count). I was lucky enough to have spare short ball cups and grub screws for the steering links. I had to dig into my spare TA05 screws to find that one long countersunk screw that goes into the motor mount.
You have to ditch the turnbuckles for 12mm grub screws and short links, but 12mm just doesn't seem long enough. 3mm of space in between leaves only 2mm inside each adjuster, not very strong. I think I'll chop the old turnbuckles short so there's more screw in each adjuster, and the bolt bit in the middle should be just wide enough to accomodate that 3mm of space it needs between links. (I found the 2mm stated in the manual produced a bit too much toe out.)
The step screws for the steering linkage is a funny one, never seen it before.. part 50579.. It's commonly found in TG10/TGX cars, my hobby shop actually had a pack so I was fine. Not sure why they just make the hole bigger and use a regular step screw like we have for the uprights..
Just one build note, the steering posts have a bit of play vertically, allowing for some unwanted rotation of the steering arms making them sloppy. I added a few shims (.4 to .5) to the underside of each arm, just as much as it needs to be screwed down tight. The bottom shims (Tamiya ones, at least) and the bevel at the top mount clamp down on thee bearings' inner race, so there's no binding from overtightening. There's almost no play after that.
The older gear/ball diff outdrives are fine, you don't need the new ones it shows. Also don't worry about the 2.6 and 2mm screws it shows, BC4 and BC5. They're just for the servo and switch mount.
My previous post, http://www.rctech.net/forum/6213250-post9840.html shows the CF steering rod alternative, or there's the 3racing one, or just buy a 3mm threaded rod somewhere.. It might be a while before Tamiya releases the actual rod, but I don't care since my TCS season is done.
Instead of ball links for the steering rod I used those metal tubes you usually put into the shock ends. They come in a stock Mini kit. It just lets me screw it all down tight, and keep the slop to a minimum by not having to pop out the link from the cup.
Yup, M05 trees A, B, C, D, and F.. they skipped E for some reason. My shop had one complete set left, so I lucked out. Seemed like I wasn't the only one with that idea..
There's actually very little you need to take from your old mini, I was very surprised. You'll need drivetrain parts.. gears, bearings, outdrives, dogbones, axles. Beyond that, 4 5x8mm bearings for steering, the camber link step screws (or the M-03R ball links, that's fine too - You'll need to decide which manual to use, the Pro if you have the ball links, the stock one otherwise.) You'll also need the suspension pins. Beyond that, the rest of the old car isn't used much.
You get brand new arms and camber links, uprights and C-hubs. You may need a new servo saver that's short enough, mine wasn't. Shocks are needed as well, though you're welcome to assemble the friction shocks the trees provide..
You just need to decide which uprights to go with. The new ones are 5x11 bearings, but still in the M-03M style. I had the old-school 5x11 uprights, so I just went with the plastic set supplied in the F tree. Their arms are set much higher, eliminating the need for spacers under the ball links. Don't skip the F tree even if you intend to use your own uprights, you need those little bearing holders it includes. I have a feeling they might release a new diff down the road, using different bearings in those larger holes..
I have a plethora of screws in my boxes, so I was fortunate enough to get through with the wacky lengths. The cap screws in the picture I posted earlier were 15mm SS (used at least 15), the rest were mainly 10mm SS button heads (too many to count). I was lucky enough to have spare short ball cups and grub screws for the steering links. I had to dig into my spare TA05 screws to find that one long countersunk screw that goes into the motor mount.
You have to ditch the turnbuckles for 12mm grub screws and short links, but 12mm just doesn't seem long enough. 3mm of space in between leaves only 2mm inside each adjuster, not very strong. I think I'll chop the old turnbuckles short so there's more screw in each adjuster, and the bolt bit in the middle should be just wide enough to accomodate that 3mm of space it needs between links. (I found the 2mm stated in the manual produced a bit too much toe out.)
The step screws for the steering linkage is a funny one, never seen it before.. part 50579.. It's commonly found in TG10/TGX cars, my hobby shop actually had a pack so I was fine. Not sure why they just make the hole bigger and use a regular step screw like we have for the uprights..
Just one build note, the steering posts have a bit of play vertically, allowing for some unwanted rotation of the steering arms making them sloppy. I added a few shims (.4 to .5) to the underside of each arm, just as much as it needs to be screwed down tight. The bottom shims (Tamiya ones, at least) and the bevel at the top mount clamp down on thee bearings' inner race, so there's no binding from overtightening. There's almost no play after that.
The older gear/ball diff outdrives are fine, you don't need the new ones it shows. Also don't worry about the 2.6 and 2mm screws it shows, BC4 and BC5. They're just for the servo and switch mount.
My previous post, http://www.rctech.net/forum/6213250-post9840.html shows the CF steering rod alternative, or there's the 3racing one, or just buy a 3mm threaded rod somewhere.. It might be a while before Tamiya releases the actual rod, but I don't care since my TCS season is done.
Instead of ball links for the steering rod I used those metal tubes you usually put into the shock ends. They come in a stock Mini kit. It just lets me screw it all down tight, and keep the slop to a minimum by not having to pop out the link from the cup.
08-17-2009, 11:26 AM
#9849
Sweet! I'll need one eventually for TCS racing.. It's only a piece of metal with threading, so it's good that they don't gouge us for $5 or something.. 
So has anyone track-tested this puppy with any tangible outcome/setup info? I won't have time for a while to hit a carpet track..
Our TCS nationals only had a few people rocking the 05, and many (including myself) stuck with the trusty M-03, some of them despite having bought an 05 recently.. The only really successful 05 racer was Jerry Man with a Fiat body, and he ended up 2nd.. the rest of the top 5 (I was 4th) were 03's.
I'm sure that will change by next season when more info gets out. I'm likely keeping my M03 with the front one-way as is for outdoors, gonna see about making the 05 my carpet monster alongside my M04.. the lower CoG should help quite a bit..
I'll need one eventually for TCS racing.. It's only a piece of metal with threading, so it's good that they don't gouge us for $5 or something.. So has anyone track-tested this puppy with any tangible outcome/setup info? I won't have time for a while to hit a carpet track..
Our TCS nationals only had a few people rocking the 05, and many (including myself) stuck with the trusty M-03, some of them despite having bought an 05 recently.. The only really successful 05 racer was Jerry Man with a Fiat body, and he ended up 2nd.. the rest of the top 5 (I was 4th) were 03's.
I'm sure that will change by next season when more info gets out. I'm likely keeping my M03 with the front one-way as is for outdoors, gonna see about making the 05 my carpet monster alongside my M04.. the lower CoG should help quite a bit..
TA only sells to US residents.. doh.. gonna have to hit up my local shop to put an order in..
08-17-2009, 02:49 PM
#9851
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08-17-2009, 03:20 PM
#9852
Until i've proven to myself I can do better with this frankensteined 05 than my M-03 on asphalt or my M-04 on carpet, the jury's still out..
But for about $40 worth of parts, why not try and find out?
08-17-2009, 04:00 PM
#9853
James get back to work! lol 
I bought and built my 05 for one reason, needed another mini to conquer. i have my 04 and 03 dialed now. I really dont expect any surprises. The only thing ill be toying with is weight and where it works best. Hope to have it out for its maiden voyage on Wednesday night.
Also i mounted the GTX ESC on the top, the steering staft doesnt touch, makes for very nice very short motor wires. Performance gains? None at all, but ill tell everyone thats where my speed comes from lol
I bought and built my 05 for one reason, needed another mini to conquer. i have my 04 and 03 dialed now. I really dont expect any surprises. The only thing ill be toying with is weight and where it works best. Hope to have it out for its maiden voyage on Wednesday night.
Also i mounted the GTX ESC on the top, the steering staft doesnt touch, makes for very nice very short motor wires. Performance gains? None at all, but ill tell everyone thats where my speed comes from lol
08-17-2009, 09:10 PM
#9854
I've been racing my M05 on carpet and I've only noticed one problem. Under braking the rear end of the car will swing out. It's the only problem I have with the car. I'm using the stock setup. Is anybody else experiencing this problem? and any remedies? I've got my own ideas of how to cure this problem, but I want additional input to see if I'm on the right track.
Thanks
Thanks
08-17-2009, 10:21 PM
#9855
Stickier back tires. That's the short answer.
I've run the M-05 with and without weight on the battery and haven't really noticed much of a difference in handling. The car seems perfectly happy with no weight at all added, and maybe very slightly more hooked with a whole bunch.
Overall, I like the car, but not as much as my M-04.
Jim
I've run the M-05 with and without weight on the battery and haven't really noticed much of a difference in handling. The car seems perfectly happy with no weight at all added, and maybe very slightly more hooked with a whole bunch.
Overall, I like the car, but not as much as my M-04.
Jim