288LikesTamiya mini cooper
07-30-2009, 09:45 PM
#9676
bowl806,
The HW BL 13T 3000Kv system comes with the speedie, motor and a setting card. This card allows you to change 11 different settings on the speedie. If you get the Version 2 system this allows you to upgrade the speedie using the adapter card,(not included, brought as a aftermarket item) and a pc.
The settings mostly played with on the speedie, are the drag brake, punch and motor timing.
Regards,
Calvin.
The HW BL 13T 3000Kv system comes with the speedie, motor and a setting card. This card allows you to change 11 different settings on the speedie. If you get the Version 2 system this allows you to upgrade the speedie using the adapter card,(not included, brought as a aftermarket item) and a pc.
The settings mostly played with on the speedie, are the drag brake, punch and motor timing.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-31-2009 at 03:14 PM.
07-31-2009, 04:44 AM
#9677
Ok guys here's one for you.
I built my plastic super mini shocks, and every race I have to re-build them because I lost pressure, what am I doing wrong?
I bought those because everybody told me I didn't need the bling bling ones.
When they are re-build I can usually last one race day, the next week I have to check them again, is that normal?
Starteur
I built my plastic super mini shocks, and every race I have to re-build them because I lost pressure, what am I doing wrong?
I bought those because everybody told me I didn't need the bling bling ones.
When they are re-build I can usually last one race day, the next week I have to check them again, is that normal?
Starteur
07-31-2009, 04:54 AM
#9678
Ok guys here's one for you.
I built my plastic super mini shocks, and every race I have to re-build them because I lost pressure, what am I doing wrong?
I bought those because everybody told me I didn't need the bling bling ones.
When they are re-build I can usually last one race day, the next week I have to check them again, is that normal?
Starteur
I built my plastic super mini shocks, and every race I have to re-build them because I lost pressure, what am I doing wrong?
I bought those because everybody told me I didn't need the bling bling ones.
When they are re-build I can usually last one race day, the next week I have to check them again, is that normal?
Starteur
The CVA shocks are pretty flawed at damping (massive gap between piston and body so they need heavy oils), but that also makes them pretty foolproof to build.
The only think I can think of is that you are using the diaphragm in the wrong way, pressuring the shock, and forcing the oil out of the seals.
The diaphragm should be seated in the shock without any dents, and any excess oil pushed out before the cap goes on.
07-31-2009, 05:22 AM
#9679
By losing pressure I mean that, when I try to collapse the shock by hand with no spring, it stays in and doesn't come back out to its position even if it is almost full of oil, there is always a little bit of oil missing when that condition occurs.
I always build my shocks like you said by taking the excess of oil out when I put the diaphram in.
By the way I have a few friends that have the same problem, so we are surely doing something wrong!
starteur
I always build my shocks like you said by taking the excess of oil out when I put the diaphram in.
By the way I have a few friends that have the same problem, so we are surely doing something wrong!
starteur
07-31-2009, 05:41 AM
#9680
After you have filled the shock with oil, do you move the shock shaft up and down to release any air bubbles?
07-31-2009, 05:42 AM
#9681
By losing pressure I mean that, when I try to collapse the shock by hand with no spring, it stays in and doesn't come back out to its position even if it is almost full of oil, there is always a little bit of oil missing when that condition occurs.
I always build my shocks like you said by taking the excess of oil out when I put the diaphram in.
By the way I have a few friends that have the same problem, so we are surely doing something wrong!
starteur
I always build my shocks like you said by taking the excess of oil out when I put the diaphram in.
By the way I have a few friends that have the same problem, so we are surely doing something wrong!
starteur
If you really want a hard damper rebound, put an o-ring or a foam chunk into the bladder gap. Personally I leave the rebound to the spring.
07-31-2009, 08:18 AM
#9682
Tech Master
bowl806,
The HW BL 13T 3000Kv system comes with th espeedie, motor and a setting card. This card allows you to change 11 different settings on the speedie. If you get the Version 2 system this allows you to upgrade the speedie using the adapter card,(not included, brought as a aftermarket item) and a pc.
The settings mostly played with on the speedie, are the drag brake, punch and motor timing.
Regards,
Calvin.
The HW BL 13T 3000Kv system comes with th espeedie, motor and a setting card. This card allows you to change 11 different settings on the speedie. If you get the Version 2 system this allows you to upgrade the speedie using the adapter card,(not included, brought as a aftermarket item) and a pc.
The settings mostly played with on the speedie, are the drag brake, punch and motor timing.
Regards,
Calvin.
Thanks again,
Eric
07-31-2009, 09:11 AM
#9683
Thanks to you all, I will try your recommendations after the week end, when I get back from vacation.
Thanks again guys
Starteur
Thanks again guys
Starteur
07-31-2009, 01:09 PM
#9684
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
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To be honest it doesnt make any difference anyway. Just buy one and never look back.
Our oldest systems are now nearly 18 months old and still going strong - including a 1000 lap enduro (in 45+C heat)
In all the years I've been Mini racing (since the M01) this is the single biggest improvement we've made.
07-31-2009, 02:32 PM
#9685
Tech Master
Eric, it's not a matter of choice which system you get. The Version II is all they make now. It's just whatever one they have in stock.
To be honest it doesnt make any difference anyway. Just buy one and never look back.
Our oldest systems are now nearly 18 months old and still going strong - including a 1000 lap enduro (in 45+C heat)
In all the years I've been Mini racing (since the M01) this is the single biggest improvement we've made.
To be honest it doesnt make any difference anyway. Just buy one and never look back.
Our oldest systems are now nearly 18 months old and still going strong - including a 1000 lap enduro (in 45+C heat)
In all the years I've been Mini racing (since the M01) this is the single biggest improvement we've made.
07-31-2009, 03:13 PM
#9686
Eric,
That is the system. The only difference between the old and new system is that the punch setting has more adjustments and the version 2 is USB upgradeable if you purchase the interface.
Tony is correct in that on the track they offer the same performance. At this time, no software has been released to upgrade the version 2.
Regards,
Calvin.
That is the system. The only difference between the old and new system is that the punch setting has more adjustments and the version 2 is USB upgradeable if you purchase the interface.
Tony is correct in that on the track they offer the same performance. At this time, no software has been released to upgrade the version 2.
Regards,
Calvin.
07-31-2009, 03:19 PM
#9687
Tech Master
Eric,
That is the system. The only difference between the old and new system is that the punch setting has more adjustments and the version 2 is USB upgradeable if you purchase the interface.
Tony is correct in that on the track they offer the same performance. At this time, no software has been released to upgrade the version 2.
Regards,
Calvin.
That is the system. The only difference between the old and new system is that the punch setting has more adjustments and the version 2 is USB upgradeable if you purchase the interface.
Tony is correct in that on the track they offer the same performance. At this time, no software has been released to upgrade the version 2.
Regards,
Calvin.
Thanks again, Eric
07-31-2009, 03:37 PM
#9688
Eric,
RC mart has them, as does some of the Australian web shops. Price in Aust approx $130/140 complete.
Regards,
Calvin.
RC mart has them, as does some of the Australian web shops. Price in Aust approx $130/140 complete.
Regards,
Calvin.
07-31-2009, 03:41 PM
#9689
Tech Master
07-31-2009, 04:48 PM
#9690
Mini Series
I apologize guys but just an FYI our MJGTC Series has a class
for the tamiya Mo3's and Mo5's
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...series-73.html
for the tamiya Mo3's and Mo5's
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...series-73.html