k_h_d

In regards to the number of holes in the piston. For the super mini oil shocks I just built them with the 1 hole piston and using the oil that came with the shocks. Will the one hole piston be okay?

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

SerpentCT4S,

If you used the TRF M chassis shocks PNo 54000, then they are shorter than the regular TRF shocks. A selection of springs would also assist with fine tuning later.

The aluminum hexes are not really necessary, however you can get them in 5mm and 6mm widths which can change the width of the car.

If you read the article about setting up a mini on the web site, it will give you all the info you need.

Regards,

Calvin.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

k_h_d,

They will still work. The super mini CVA's have a different tolerance in build to the TRF shocks.

You can always experiment with the pistons and work out which are better for your racing surface and driving style. The oil that comes with the Super mini cva's is approx 40 wt.

I presently run the TRF M chassis shocks setup as posted before, however dependant on track conditions, springs and oils may need to be changed to suit.

I would suggest take the car out and run it and see if it handles well and then concentrate on being smooth. Remember to run a low ride height, otherwise you will traction roll.

regards,

Calvin.

raycerZ

iTrader: (2)

You would think that after almost 20 years of racing RC cars from 1/28 to 1/8-scale, I wouldn't get too excited about another RC car, but the M03 just rekindled my passion all over again. Tamiya has come a long way since their first generation front-drivers (the FF was crap, that's all I can say!). I bought a M03M, shortened the wheelbase, and mounted an old school Mini body. No mods other than bearings and short pieces of silicone tubes for more consistent damping in the friction shocks (pretty much per the tips in rc-mini.net but I did space the diff gears to make it think like it's a limited slip). And she runs like a charm!

I'm thinking of putting the 23-turn racecar on the shelf or selling it, and just race the Mini and have fun.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Your journey to the dark side is almost complete.... Hee hee..

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

What do you guys think of the M03r, part #84023?

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

SerpentCT4S,

If you want the rolls royce mini then the MO3R is the one to get. Comes with all the extras.

Still need to get; universals,body,motor. It is also a good idea to replace the shocks as the ones in the kit are brittle. It can be built as a MO3,MO3M or MO3L.

If you have the funds or like the extra bling, then get it. Review is on http://rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php.

Regards,

Calvin.

k_h_d

For someone like me who was just getting into this it was a ton cheaper to start with the M03L. I got it for $95 shipped and then put bearings and super mini shocks. At somepoint I will put universals in it. But it gave me a motor and ESC so was really cheap. The M03R does not come with a motor / esc right? Or even a body?

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

k_h_d,

You are correct. They are not included in the MO3R. However they do come with the alloy front knuckles,alloy rear hubs 1.5 degree, alloy motorheatsink and alloy servo posts.

The alloy servo posts are stronger than the plastic and do not flex as much. I only run universals, I have never used the dogbones. The universals stop the chattering occuring on the front at close to full lock during acceleration.

BTW,

Happy New Year to all.

Regards,

Calvin.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

I'm interested to find out how you guys use weights to change the handling of your M03s. For example, if the car was slightly oversteering, where should weight be added? on top of Rear bumper?

cherokee

iTrader: (1)

If you do get an "R" or any of those alloy parts be sure to put a dab of loctite on the threads of the screws that go in there, the will work themselves loose after a little while.

xrayroooahhhh

iTrader: (12)

KHD.....your local racers will give you the best advice on set-ups....etc....if your going to race.....finish off with the wheel bearings......find some aluminum front knuckles (the plastic ones bend fairly easily....you can re-bend them once...usually...then they are done!!!)....the tires/inserts (IMO) are the single most important part of a mini set-up.....I'd like to say there is a proven combination.....but....each track probably has a few combo's that work!!! Just as a thought.....again...for my driving style....I like to set the car up quite stiff.....but I always start with finding the tire/insert combo that works....then keep making the car stiffer....until it is railed!!!! Now on the track....the best advice I have ever recieved is too watch and see if the front or rear of the car is not doing what it should....that will give you an idea of where you need a fix!!!!

Just the way I do it....now lot's of guys on here with more experience than me....have fun,
Roy

gto0209

Has anyone heard how close to being released the hpi m car is? I could use another m03 because mine is worn out but, the hpi would be another alternative.

MD

iTrader: (136)

gto0209 - I was told by HPI cutomer service that possibly February 2009.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

rcmodel.com.hk are listing 2 of the new Team Atlas Mini shells as in stock (although we all know that doesn't mean that they ARE in stock of course..)



The Alfa Romeo Competizione 8C and the Nissan Cube. No way known will the Alfa fit an M03 but the Nissan probably will.
Can't say that I'll be in a big rush to pick up either of them though.....