Raman

iTrader: (94)

@ M07 builders

Was just rebuilding my XV-01 doffs and thought of you guys!

Since the diff in the M07 is the same one that the TA06 and XV-01 use. I would recommend using the Kyosho P5 O ring.. works better than black one that is included. Another option would be the X-ray clear O ring which is slightly bigger and meatier, and can be compressed in the cavity..which will require 0,2 mm shim versus the kit included 0,3 mm. The X ray is what most of us use in the 419.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

The M07 kit diff comes with the orange 5mm orings which are better than the black ones they used to give.

I'm not sure how they compare to the Kyosho ones. As for the XRAY 972050 orings, I tried using them when I was building the diff but they seem very tight when I did a dry fit (even considering its a dry fit). I'm not sure if its supposed to feel like that? I already used 0.2mm shims and the orings seated properly, they are much thicker compared to standard 5mm ones.

I switched back to the kit orange ones in the end.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

Almost completing my M07, material and build quality is far superior compared to the previous models. Despite that, I had to make some adjustments:

- Added 0.2mm shims (5mm I.D.) between the steering knuckle and the C hubs to remove up/down play along the axis of the king pin. Making sure the shim is centered properly with the kingpin pipe.

- The fit of the C hubs and rear hubs are quite tight on the suspensions arms to the point that they were binding, this required some sanding for smooth suspension movement.

- Front lower suspension arm mount, instead of using the button screws to retain the arm shafts, I drilled out the marked holes on the mount and put in some set screws. This removes some side play from the shafts and saves a tiny bit of weight as the two button screws are now replaced by set screws.

- Rear suspension mounts, I put in the aluminum option set. The hole for the dowel pin on the chassis is slightly oversized and this causes the aluminum mounts to be slightly rotated when the screw is tightened down (downwards on left and upwards on right due to clockwise tightening of the screw). This slightly changes the angle of the suspension shafts. I cut some small pieces of vinyl from parts packaging and placed them in between the chassis hole and the dowel pin to take up the space so the mounts could be seated closer to being square.

- Front anti roll bars, the lower ball cups of the roll bar kit were a bit too tight on the moulded ball connectors of the front suspension arms, another source of binding. I sanded the mould lines off the ball connectors and also used a body reamer on both sides of the ball cup, and this fixed the issue.

- Rear anti roll bars, the notch on the chassis that holds the roll bar isn't wide enough at the top to allow the set screws to remove slack when they are screwed down (width of screw is more than width of notch, while the bar is seated further down below). So instead of tightening down on the roll bar when screwed in, the set screws will bottom out on the top of the notch and start to lift the upper bulkhead cap if you continue to tighten them down. To fix this, I used a file to widen the top part of the notch so the set screws can actually reach further down to remove the up/down play from the roll bar.
I noticed that the inner part (closer to chassis centreline) of the notch is actually wider by design, which seems like the set screw holes on the upper bulkhead cap are incorrectly placed over the wrong position. Had the holes be placed another ~2mm towards the chassis centerline, there wouldn’t be this defect.

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

I've used Ceramic bearings in my touring cars. They require less maintenance than the steel bearings, and usually last longer. I've found the cheapie Yeah Racing ones to be good. Acer Bearings are another brand I have tried.

The only negative I can think of is cost. They are usually double the cost of a steel bearing.

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

I would like to know what brushless combos are you using in small carpet tracks.
I have tried to see what are the motor rules for TCS, but I could not find anything.
I am thinking about 17.5T blinky before hand on outdoors on open tracks I have used minis with 10.5T blinky and a 9.5T.

best regards
Javier

FunStuff

Go to the Tamiya USA site. All the info you need is there.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Wow 9.5t must be a hand full

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

...is tons of fun.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I started building my M07 last night. Going well so far, but I'm not impressed with the sealing of the gearbox. Lots of visible gaps that debris can get in. And that pinion gear cap... I don't see that lasting very long. Plus the seal is terrible. Looks like I'll be spending a while plugging it up.

altitudelow

iTrader: (3)

Did you use the adhesive foam to fill the gaps? It's in a little aside in the instructions, I skipped it accidentally.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

unless you are rallying, i wouldn't worry about the gaps in the gearbox..

no extra seals in mine. we shall see how long it lasts.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I did, but that barely scratches the surface. There are some pretty large gaps that the manual doesn't cover, and quite a few smaller gaps too. The largest undocumented gap is in the region I've circled in red, and the pinion cap isn't much better.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Racing on asphalt, it only took a few runs to damage my M05 v2 gears with small debris before I plugged all the tiny gaps with Blu-Tack. It'll only be worse with the M07.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

entire day of angry laps complete at Tamiya USA Circuit... no issues yet. (fingers crossed)

on another note, my M07 is considerably quieter than my M05.. which was significantly quieter than my M03.

also, its nice to have a noticeable feel with each little suspension tune i made (took away) during the course of the day.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I hope it's not too quiet. If it doesn't squeal like a pig, it won't be right.

(anyone else hear banjos?)