inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

The use of the M06 ball shaft on the front was outlawed in TGP, but it seems they listened to their customers. They are legal now.


But why would you want this? The minis (from the m03 days) front arm damper link position is offset compared to conventional ones. This creates a non linear damper compression in respect to the arm movement. You gain more leverage against the damper as the arm travels up. In other words, the suspension gets softer as the car rolls.


This characteristic adds to the tendency for traction rolling. To counter this, lots of TGP racers modify the shocks to stiffen up the damper action as it compresses. Pretty much all the top racers use this mod. With the new addition of the front ball shaft, no such mod is necessary. I've tried the m06 ball shaft option on the front, and it helps with the consistency of the car's motions. The problem with it though, was that it was too long on the ball end, makes the damper touch the bumper. The new option is shorter to clear it.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

I think you can use this:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1615

if there is enough meat, you can also fit a countersunk screw where the droop screw hits. Need to see the area first though.

niznai

Don't "cut" anything. Break the razor in four bits (along and across down the middle) and then use your dremel with a thin cutting disc to grind the bits down to size slowly. You can use that to cut it as well, but it's a wasted effort and you might ruin the tempering of the razor material. The whole point of using these is they are tough as nails and thin. Same procedure applies if using a scalpel/cutter blade (if you want something thicker to make the support stiffer).

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Has anyone tried fitting the front shock tower with the curve going down, rather than up with the MO6 ball ends fitted to the front arms. It may let you fit normal size mini shocks without having to change the shock end.

Bob,

I would be interested to know what Tamiya part Eric fitted to his car for the droop screw solution.

Clawhammers

I created detailed list of kits / hops ups for my future M-05







Please note that this is my first RC Kit....

I am planning to enjoy the simplicity (and easy maintenance) of 2WD, i.e., both FWD and RWD.

My future purchase would (perhaps) either FF-03 kit or RM-01 kit.

Cheers

jph98

Bob,

I just tried this with the Tamiya aluminium optional shock tower and the top of the shock fouls the tower because of the angle it's at.

You could make a mount that allows you to use the shorter shocks but inverting the optional Tamiya part won't work.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

jph98,

ok, thank you.

niznai

What? No ceramic bearings?! You gotta get'em!

Clawhammers

@Niznai
What is reference / parts number of ceramic bearing ?

Granpa

Sorry, but didn't pay much attention. Eric posts on this thread as EricP. Since I brought it up, he may post it or you could send him a PM. I think Eric builds a lot of the display or show models for Tamiya. I just commented on it cause it was such a "clean" solution.

There have been several other solutions posted. The razor blade and X-acto blade ones are not ones that I'd pursue. You could really hurt yourself doing this. The other thing is that fully 90% of you don't wear the proper eye protection when using a Dremel or other grinders.

The flat head machine screw solution might work, but before you drill any holes, make sure a countersink will fit.

Granpa

I know you asked niznai, but hope you won't mind my answering. The best bearings I've found are from Acer racing or Boca Bearings. They'll run you about $8 apiece. I've used them in the tranny, but don't recommend them for wheel bearings. The metal shielded bearings, cleaned often, are better than the sealed bearings. The seals end to swell when you clean these bearings and is especially bad with the cheap $1 bearings.

Also did a quick scan of your parts list and noted the M05 ball diff. They do work, but are fragile and require constant attention. A better option would be a TA03 ball diff or one of the after market gear diffs.

Please don't take this personally cause I mean it well. But, buying every option part before even assembling the kit is not the best way to go. However, since you seem to have almost all the options, just build the kit with the TRF shocks, metal steering and the upgraded diff. Add the other stuff as you go along. I looked at your list and didn't know what some of the stuff was or what it did. Minis are constantly being torn down and rebuilt so add the option stuff as needed and for a purpose. The very best or fastest Minis often aren't loaded down with a ton of option parts. Just those that enhance performance or increase the durability.

niznai

My point was you paid over 1k for all that stuff and forgot the most important upgrade (without which it's not even worth talking about the benefits of all that stuff you paid so much for).

And since you seem to have money burning holes in your pockets, why not go the whole hog and buy some serious bearings like Kanzen? I mean what's another 100$ in a thousand?

axle182

iTrader: (18)

One thing I enjoy commenting on this subject lol. In general you will see the top guys winning with the best equipment. But sometimes I enjoy testing that theory out. Calgary wcics, I won with a 2+ year old Hobbyking pack, that sits in my nitro starter box for most of its life. Here it is -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

Thats in a field of spec motors and ESC. As people around my pit table will tell you, I went from just making the A, to leading by making drastic chassis adjustments. First, i went to the M05 chassis (Thanks ERWIN!) and put in a setup that worked. In the final, the HUGE change that lit the car on fire - I changed my rear tires to OLDER harder tires to get faster rotation through the esses (Carpet track).

So while you may see some fast guys using the best most expensive packs, from my experience in ALL classes, I DO NOT subscribe to the belief that you need the best and you need to spend the most. And i know Im alone on that thinking lol. But Ive been able to prove it to myself, in TC, pans cars etc etc. Im honest with myself, that in every situation, I can see where I should have driven better, more consistent, or a setup change that would have helped.

Jim, I also quallied 2nd in WGT with the car I bought from u, using the old packs I got from you. They worked AWESOME A bad rec in the final and I was a DNS

Disclaimer, sure, if you find the perfect setup (which changes every run!) and PERFECT driving for the entire race (that SURE aint me!), then its time to worry about the last .01v of a pack. Until then, Ill enjoy my racing with second hand cheap equipment I just dont like to hear new racers feel they need to spend more than they actually do. IMHO, thats where we loose the new racers.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

My first mini
My V2 Pro says it will be here tomorrow...might need a vacation day just to play around

Dan

iTrader: (75)

More expensive packs exist because there will always be people out there who believe spending more = better pack. Which isn't always the case. I'm sure you already knew that in all your years of racing.

I'd say motors are more of an issue than batteries. But thats another topic entirely. Besides, brick packs will keep coming down in price and have been. I don't see that happening with stick packs. No other battery manufacturers are going to really seriously consider more stick pack offerings since just about all cars these days are designed for brick packs. The market is too small now for stick packs. Still way cheaper than people running multiple matched NIMH packs back in the day and replacing them every season. I'm sure if it were up to you, we would still be watching video on VHS tapes instead of DVD's/Blu-Rays.