hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

The announcer was saying that RX-7 had smoke stacks on it.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

I posted my winning setup... Oh that was an M04L though

Bensi post up your setup! Denny had the better handling car but couldn't get past Bensi, he could also make up time if there was a mistake or he lost momentum. A2 was a great battle of 2 great drivers, 1 mistake was all it came down to.

Mike's Mini was dialed, he even started to take it for a hot lap when we all heckled him and had a yard sale when the trailer started dropping its contents.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Thank you Dan

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Is there a spot somewhere with setup sheets? Whether it's M03 or M04 doesn't matter. I'm playing with my backup cars.

Boons

I had a decent result at one of my local clubs last night, I took my hopped up M05 and my stock (with Tamiya's plastic oil filled dampers) M03. I ran the M05 in one heat, and then tried the M03 for the first time in another heat and the final. I came second overall, only behind a LWB M05. The M03, in my hands anyway, just seemed better everywhere than my expensive, hopped up M05

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Congrats to Bensi, as well as all the A drivers.

cementsurfer86

You're not the only one, it seems like that happens alot. While I wouln't mind having the option between the two cars, I just can't see spending the coin for a M05 when the 03 is still so good.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

The Fresno Hobby Town track is actually quite similar. I did all my prerace testing there for GT3. Before controlled practice on Friday, I'd never turned a single lap at Tamiya.

I'm not saying there isn't value to testing at Tamiya; I'm just saying that the Fresno track is better than the locals may think it is - especially if the temps are like they were last weekendn in Aliso Viejo.

And so this isn't a total threadjack, I bought a M03R when I got home on Monday night. I won a Cooper-S body in the raffle, wasn't expecting to get kicked out of GT3 in my second race ever, and I'm not sure I want to jump into the shark tank that is GT2, so between my mini and my 1/12th scale, I think that's what I'm running next year.

back9monsta

iTrader: (18)

Motor: handout Silver can
ESC: LRP QC3
Batt: IP 4200 60c
Servo: Futaba 9551
Radio: Airtronics M12
Body: Lt Wt Suzuki Swift

FRONT
I used TRF touring car shocks and put mini shock shafts with plastic damper retainer
56 mm shock length
Losi 60 wt Oil
3 hole piston
1mm of rebound
Short Black/Red spring
RIDE HEIGHT: 5mm
Toe: + .5, hard to say as I am eyeballing it
- I measure just behind the front arms.
I did check camber as it has fixed camber links since the ride ht. is at 5mm
Alum upright position 2, inner most hole
- To me this gave me more responsive steering
- Plastic 6mm wheel hub

BACK
I used TRF touring car shocks and put mini shock shafts with alum -1 down damper retainer
- I used the -1 down damper retainer to get the ride height to 4mm
56.5 mm shock length
Losi 30 wt Oil
3 hole piston
1mm of rebound
Short Fluorscent Blue spring
RIDE HEIGHT: 4mm
- I measure at the back of the chassis.
TOE: 1.5 Alum rear upright
- Position 1 for some camber gain
- 5mm Alum wheel hub + 1mm spacer
o This is a fine tune setting that I use for the front and back
Camber : -3 degrees
Soft roll bar


NOTES
Diff – most important setting in silver can TCS racing
- I use the a old diff made for the TA01/02’s - #53219 Touring Car Aluminum Pressure Plates and the TA03 ball diff gear
o Basically a Manta Ray diff but Milled Aluminum
 If you ever find one, BUY IT.
• I built with AW grease, ceramic balls, sanded diff rings
o and to make the diff a little tighter I put a .3 axle shim before I screwed down tight
New S Grip Spec Tires tire prep.
- I CAed both the inside and outside sidewalls with one layer of CA on all four tires
o Break in these tires are very important
 I would put a new set of fronts and run it 3 runs about 5 min runs.
• I put worn rear tires that I built just to have traction during my breaking period
• Then the fronts became my rears.
• when I put new front tires and the broken in rears, the car would push too much.
o I would run the new fronts for about to 2 runs, then they were ready to race.
o As the traction came up throughout the weekend, I would CA the ridge where the treads meet the sidewall so, the front type will not collapse while cornering.
o There was a lot of minis struggling for rear traction, reason was they were running new or tires on all four ends.
I offsetted the battery holders to the right side of the car (Grandpa method) by shimming about 5-6 mm then screwing in the holders then using the M03 holders. This seemed to balance the car.
I used a Large Kimbrough servo saver
I used aluminum screws on the top half of the car and Ti screws on the bottom half.
- You do not need to do this, but I already had the screws so why not.
- I also put tungsten weights in the lower mid section of the car to make 1250 gm weight limit
o I was at 1255 gm.
Ran the gears dry
I used old Tamiya rubber blue seals in the drive train, and fluorine bearing on the uprights
- I took the seals off the drive train bearings

I think that was it. 98% of what I know the 2% is up to you.

BTW, Big ups to the Mini Mafia at Tamiya (GPa, Chuck, Niino, Craig, Steve, A. Lopez and especially Danny). He is a great driver, I had a hell of a time holding him off.

I actually need your guys help. At the worlds they run new carpet, no sauce control tire (2 sets of M Grips 1 set of S grips with hard foam inserts on swift wheels) which you have to build in tech and motor a 28turn lightly tuned brushed motor. I have no experience in this, if someone does please post.

Granpa

Has nothing to do with the track, layout etc. It has everything to do with running with the Mini Mafia at the Tamiya track. Bensi is a member.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

[QUOTE=back9monsta;12493675]Motor: handout Silver can
ESC: LRP QC3
Batt: IP 4200 60c
Servo: Futaba 9551
Radio: Airtronics M12
Body: Lt Wt Suzuki Swift

FRONT
I used TRF touring car shocks and put mini shock shafts with plastic damper retainer
56 mm shock length
Losi 60 wt Oil
3 hole piston
1mm of rebound
Short Black/Red spring
RIDE HEIGHT: 5mm
- I measure just behind the front arms.
I did check camber as it has fixed camber links since the ride ht. is at 5mm
Alum upright position 2, inner most hole
- To me this gave me more responsive steering
- Plastic 6mm wheel hub

BACK
I used TRF touring car shocks and put mini shock shafts with alum -1 down damper retainer
- I used the -1 down damper retainer to get the ride height to 4mm
56.5 mm shock length
Losi 30 wt Oil
3 hole piston
1mm of rebound
Short Fluorscent Blue spring
RIDE HEIGHT: 4mm
- I measure at the back of the chassis.
TOE: 1.5 Alum rear upright
- Position 1 for some camber gain
- 5mm Alum wheel hub + 1mm spacer
o This is a fine tune setting that I use for the front and back
Camber : -3 degrees
Soft roll bar


NOTES
Diff – most important setting in silver can TCS racing
- I use the a old diff made for the TA01/02’s - #53219 Touring Car Aluminum Pressure Plates and the TA03 ball diff gear
o Basically a Manta Ray diff but Milled Aluminum
 If you ever find one, BUY IT.
• I built with AW grease, ceramic balls, sanded diff rings
o and to make the diff a little tighter I put a .03 axle shim before I screwed down tight
New S Grip Spec Tires tire prep.
- I CAed both the inside and outside sidewalls with one layer of CA on all four tires
o Break in these tires are very important
 I would put a new set of fronts and run it 3 runs about 5 min runs.
• I put worn rear tires that I built just to have traction during my breaking period
• Then the fronts became my rears.
• when I put new front tires and the broken in rears, the car would push too much.
o I would run the new fronts for about to 2 runs, then they were ready to race.
o As the traction came up throughout the weekend, I would CA the ridge where the treads meet the sidewall so, the front type will not collapse while cornering.
o There was a lot of minis struggling for rear traction, reason was they were running new or tires on all four ends.
I offsetted the battery holders to the left side of the car (Grandpa method) by shimming about 5-6 mm then screwing in the holders then using the M03 holders. This seemed to balance the car.
I used a Large Kimbrough servo saver
I used aluminum screws on the top half of the car and Ti screws on the bottom half.
- You do not need to do this, but I already had the screws so why not.
- I also put tungsten weights in the lower mid section of the car to make 1250 gm weight limit
o I was at 1255 gm.
Ran the gears dry
I used old Tamiya rubber blue seals in the drive train, and fluorine bearing on the uprights
- I took the seals off the drive train bearings

I think that was it. 98% of what I know the 2% is up to you.

BTW, Big ups to the Mini Mafia at Tamiya (GPa, Chuck, Niino, Craig, Steve, A. Lopez and especially Danny). He is a great driver, I had a hell of a time holding him off.

QUOTE]

Nice Thanks

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Understood.

If nothing else, the Mini Mafia is a fun bunch to run with. The fact you get to chill with the fast guys is just a plus.

Thanks for posting your setup Bensi. Good luck in Japan!

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for posting that setup. It's always good too see a different take than your own, even when the differences are subtle. I always find the combination of oils/springs particularly interesting. The variety of setups around here has narrowed again, but has switched to softer fronts than rears, with the addition of hard sway bars at the rear. Favoured tires are S Grips all around, with the front outer edges CA'd. It seems a lot of us are dealing with the effects of very stiff differentials, trying to get the rear to rotate faster and keeping as much traction up front as possible.

Different track in a different climate, though. We run from September to April mostly, indoors, shorter tracks (maybe 65' on the back straight) on carpet. Traction has most recently been described as "medium on a good day."

Thanks again.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

what is your droop setting? any toe out in the front

cementsurfer86

For the NW mini guys on here, Seattle RC Racers is having their annual Pre-Season meeting, to discuss club happenings, the upcoming season-itself, as well as provide an open forum for suggestions, ideas.

I have the info up on my blog, for those interested. I'd like to see anyone with a mini that's interested in running at H30 this season to show, if possible. The more voices, the better!

Thanks for posting your setup Bensi! I posted a copy of it on my blog as well, hope you don't mind. Good luck in Japan!

www.theminiunderground.blogspot.com