Atlas YM34 Thread
#526
I know when I ran the one-way on foams I would never let off the throttle. Worked great but with less grip it's a little tougher. I don't see how the guys run them with mod motors though. You have to brake then, guess they are really smooth on the brakes.
#527
Tech Initiate
Braking
I should be getting my M8 this week so I can start to play with the ABS brake feature. Perhaps that will allow some later braking into turns without locking up the rear end and spinning the car. I am putting the Novak brushless system in to the T and am probably going to have to learn to be real smooth on the brakes with the increased speed.
#528
hey guys i've just tested my new atlas ym34 on track last thursday.. handles pretty well but not as good as my losi xxx-s so far... i just hate how the wheels wobble at fool lock... how do i get rid of that.... and lastly whats the final drive ratio of the atlas ym34 si
#529
internal ratio is 2.3125
Mine doesn't do that wheel wobble thing that bad. I do have O rings on the outer ball ends to tighten it up a bit. I had more fore and aft slop with my front C hubs.
Mine doesn't do that wheel wobble thing that bad. I do have O rings on the outer ball ends to tighten it up a bit. I had more fore and aft slop with my front C hubs.
Last edited by Claydoh; 05-17-2003 at 08:28 PM.
#530
The wobble when you are at full lock is all to do with the extreme angles the links are at. To eliminate it make sure you are using the outer holes on the hubs, the instructions suggest the inner holes to speed up the steering. Also make sure the wheelbase is set to the normal position, ie the settings towards the back of the chassis.*
* All credit to Seaball for this useful info
* All credit to Seaball for this useful info
#531
JohnA: are u talking about the spindles? im using the outer holes right now and its still doing it alot!!
Claydoh: thanks man
Claydoh: thanks man
#532
hey fellows,
it would be nice to see a thicker c-hub so that the travel doesn't allow the wheel to wobble. something is really wrong if all that throw is needed to get it around. i've also noticed that the steering bellcrank bores for the bearings to sit in are a few .001ths oversized. maybe it's just mine, but regardless, this little bit of slop at the post translates to a bunch at the wheel. i also use orings, but only on the drag link. the orings will cause binding durring suspension movement on the tie rods, so i go for another "snugging" method.
it is this... i take standard teflon pipe sealing tape and cut a strip about 1" long. fold it two or three times and press it over the ball cup opening, like a sheath. then the ball will push it in upon assembly. the tape is very compliant, and provides the same friction regardless of direction of motion. trim the excess with body scissors or equivalent.
on a side note, i took the type tee out on the rug again with the asphalt setup i arrived at a few weeks back. mostly out of laziness. after stiffening the front and rear a bit, i got the car to turn the fastest lap i've ever turned on this course with any vehicle. with a oneway! i had to use a 3* rear end, and fairly soft springs in the rear, but the car was planted. it was a bit too aggressive for my skills, but showed promise nonetheless. huh, a oneway on carpet? maybe. now i've got to re-experiment on the rclab and find out if the one way is doable in there. trouble is my consistency plummetted. oh well, it was a tough night from the start.
it would be nice to see a thicker c-hub so that the travel doesn't allow the wheel to wobble. something is really wrong if all that throw is needed to get it around. i've also noticed that the steering bellcrank bores for the bearings to sit in are a few .001ths oversized. maybe it's just mine, but regardless, this little bit of slop at the post translates to a bunch at the wheel. i also use orings, but only on the drag link. the orings will cause binding durring suspension movement on the tie rods, so i go for another "snugging" method.
it is this... i take standard teflon pipe sealing tape and cut a strip about 1" long. fold it two or three times and press it over the ball cup opening, like a sheath. then the ball will push it in upon assembly. the tape is very compliant, and provides the same friction regardless of direction of motion. trim the excess with body scissors or equivalent.
on a side note, i took the type tee out on the rug again with the asphalt setup i arrived at a few weeks back. mostly out of laziness. after stiffening the front and rear a bit, i got the car to turn the fastest lap i've ever turned on this course with any vehicle. with a oneway! i had to use a 3* rear end, and fairly soft springs in the rear, but the car was planted. it was a bit too aggressive for my skills, but showed promise nonetheless. huh, a oneway on carpet? maybe. now i've got to re-experiment on the rclab and find out if the one way is doable in there. trouble is my consistency plummetted. oh well, it was a tough night from the start.
#534
Hmmm, pipe tape. Thats a good idea. That stuff is really thin and slick. I'm gonna try that as the O-rings do bind thing up a bit too much. Does anybody have the alum steering crank? Is it tighter fit for the bearings? Hell, I could put a bit of the pipe tape in those too.
Did anybody else see the new Atlas chassis with the 4x2 battery layout? Hmm, can't find the picture now but I know I saw it in the "Links for SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW 2003" thread somewhere.
Did anybody else see the new Atlas chassis with the 4x2 battery layout? Hmm, can't find the picture now but I know I saw it in the "Links for SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW 2003" thread somewhere.
#535
Type Si
Whats is needed to make the cars fastest what hot ups do they need and is there any thing I need to look at when building them
#536
where do they sell this car ?
#537
Tech Initiate
#538
Dragnet
Thanks
#539
THANKS
Thanks
#540
Heres the link to the new car you were talking about. Couldnt find much info or any othr articles:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...et%2Fframe.htm
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...et%2Fframe.htm