Tamiya Ta06
#1231
Suspended
Now here is the pics.
http://jerryn.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC.AUTO...T/IMG_0559.JPG
I found some problem now when I build the car.
They are easy to fix but this is the first bersion so lets see how it goas on track.
Jerzi
http://jerryn.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC.AUTO...T/IMG_0559.JPG
I found some problem now when I build the car.
They are easy to fix but this is the first bersion so lets see how it goas on track.
Jerzi
#1232
Hey guys
Never built a tamiya kit and I was looking into getting the ta06 pro I have been told that on some tamiya kits the factory Phillips head screws strip really easy and I was told to get the titanium screw set is it worth the extra money?
thanks
Never built a tamiya kit and I was looking into getting the ta06 pro I have been told that on some tamiya kits the factory Phillips head screws strip really easy and I was told to get the titanium screw set is it worth the extra money?
thanks
#1234
#1235
Tamiya makes a Ti screw kit for the 06, and yes, it is metric.
I stripped out 4 screws putting my car together, and that's never happened before in all the Tamiya cars I have built over the years, odd. They must be softer material than normal.
I stripped out 4 screws putting my car together, and that's never happened before in all the Tamiya cars I have built over the years, odd. They must be softer material than normal.
#1237
New body, PF MazdaSpeed6.
Just finished the paint, hood graphic is hand painted.....old Testor's model brush.
Drove the new car in (2) separate mains.
1st drive of the new car in main, placed 1st.
Following week, 2nd run of the car in main, placed 1st.
Nice car out of the box, but......
The other TA06 at my local track has a few more runs on it.....I'm guessing, 10 runs....and the main belt is REALLY loose. To the point, that you can't adjust any more on the tensioner (which was never set tight to begin with) To the point, that it can easily be removed by hand. The front belt has loosened also.
Since mine only has a couple runs, it hasn't developed this issue, but I can compare the two side by side, and the difference is obvious. (I built both cars, at the same time)
My TC5 belts haven't got this loose, in over a year's racing. Do these belts suck? <or> is something else the problem?
Anyone else having belt issues? Both cars are running 13.5 BL.
Just finished the paint, hood graphic is hand painted.....old Testor's model brush.
Drove the new car in (2) separate mains.
1st drive of the new car in main, placed 1st.
Following week, 2nd run of the car in main, placed 1st.
Nice car out of the box, but......
The other TA06 at my local track has a few more runs on it.....I'm guessing, 10 runs....and the main belt is REALLY loose. To the point, that you can't adjust any more on the tensioner (which was never set tight to begin with) To the point, that it can easily be removed by hand. The front belt has loosened also.
Since mine only has a couple runs, it hasn't developed this issue, but I can compare the two side by side, and the difference is obvious. (I built both cars, at the same time)
My TC5 belts haven't got this loose, in over a year's racing. Do these belts suck? <or> is something else the problem?
Anyone else having belt issues? Both cars are running 13.5 BL.
Last edited by red7fifty; 11-27-2011 at 01:04 PM.
#1238
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
motors 17.5
What motors are you guys running. As I mentioned I am running a Ko motor, cheap:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965
the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?
I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965
the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?
I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
#1239
With that motor (17.5) your gonna have to gear it up to about 28~30T pinion.
Depending on track, KV, motor torque, etc.
The stock gearing is too low.
Do you know your KV rating?
I've got the Trinity D3 in my TA06
13.5
3600KV
27T pinion
Depending on track, KV, motor torque, etc.
The stock gearing is too low.
Do you know your KV rating?
I've got the Trinity D3 in my TA06
13.5
3600KV
27T pinion
#1240
If you are wanting to drift and race why not look at the Hot Bodies TC-FD. It uses the same parts as the TCX but can be set up for either or... I would think the TA05 VDF is what you would want for drifting if you are stuck on Tamiya brand.
#1241
I am still on the fence on which chassis to pruchase - TA06 Pro w/ Exotek (when available) or the Hot Bodies TC-FD...
Either case I will be running the new Trinity D3 10.5 in the VTA class just started this season. Yes VTA, we will use VTA body, tires and wheels but nothing faster then a 10.5 and any esc will be allowed...
Either case I will be running the new Trinity D3 10.5 in the VTA class just started this season. Yes VTA, we will use VTA body, tires and wheels but nothing faster then a 10.5 and any esc will be allowed...
What motors are you guys running. As I mentioned I am running a Ko motor, cheap:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965
the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?
I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965
the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?
I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
#1242
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
KO BLM17.5 motor / gearing the TA06
---------------
17.5
2100KV
Stock pinion 23T
Stock 68T Spur
The little booklet with the motor says it recommends 5.75:1 for 110th scale sedan.. whatever the means ?
The tamiya instructions say that the car (TA06 pro) will have a ratio of 6.41:1. To get to the ratio suggested by the manufacturer of my motor I will need to run a 26T pinion.
Since I noticed the recommended ratio for my motor, what will I allow by gearing the car to that suggested ratio (or close to it).
Thanks
Last edited by Profoxcg; 12-03-2011 at 10:09 PM.
#1243
#1244
---------------
17.5
2100KV
Stock pinion 23T
Stock 68T Spur
The little booklet with the motor says it recommends 5.75:1 for 110th scale sedan.. whatever the means ?
The tamiya instructions say that the car (TA06 pro) will have a ration of 6.41:1. To get to the ration suggested by the manufacturer of my motor I will need to run a 26T pinion.
What is a 06 module gear? is this something proprietary by tamiya? < Ok I searched and found my answer... Still would a 64pitch set of gears be better smoother than the 0.6 module? CAN a 64P spur fit tamiya cars?
Another question, if a 68T spur the standard? I never really got into playing with gears in the past (not in 10th scale RC, only on slot cars and mini-z)
In mini-Z you only change the pinion, and in slot cars, well you can change both, but they are completely different.
Since I noticed the recommended ratio for my motor, what will I allow by gearing the car to that suggested ratio (or close to it).
Thanks
17.5
2100KV
Stock pinion 23T
Stock 68T Spur
The little booklet with the motor says it recommends 5.75:1 for 110th scale sedan.. whatever the means ?
The tamiya instructions say that the car (TA06 pro) will have a ration of 6.41:1. To get to the ration suggested by the manufacturer of my motor I will need to run a 26T pinion.
What is a 06 module gear? is this something proprietary by tamiya? < Ok I searched and found my answer... Still would a 64pitch set of gears be better smoother than the 0.6 module? CAN a 64P spur fit tamiya cars?
Another question, if a 68T spur the standard? I never really got into playing with gears in the past (not in 10th scale RC, only on slot cars and mini-z)
In mini-Z you only change the pinion, and in slot cars, well you can change both, but they are completely different.
Since I noticed the recommended ratio for my motor, what will I allow by gearing the car to that suggested ratio (or close to it).
Thanks
From your motor instructions, 5.75:1 (almost 6 revolutions of motor pinion, for 1 turn of the wheels) would be 25.5 tooth pinion gear. Since you can't get a 1/2 tooth, a 25T is 5.89 ratio, and 26T is 5.67 ratio. Many drivers with 17.5 BL, gear around 5:1 to 4.5 :1 To get higher top speed, but don't overload your motor. Do you have a temp gauge/gun. Most BL motors should not exceed 160*.
.6 Mod/ AV gears, are the pitch of the gear tooth. HPI also makes .6 mod.
You can change spurs to another brand, 48P or 64P, but, your on your own to figure out the correct tooth count. When doing so, measure the diameter of the spur, and look for a similar size diameter for the replacement. For the Pinion, look for a similar size in overall diameter, than add a tooth or two. You might have to buy a few different pinions, and test them to find the best one for your motor's performance, and your track conditions. Measure the motor temp....if it's getting hot, reduce the pinion gear size.
#1245
64P is smoother, and can fine tune gear ratios by small increments.
I use 48P on my other cars. (TC5)
I use stock .6 mod in TA06.
I use 48P on my other cars. (TC5)
I use stock .6 mod in TA06.