MYXTYPLYX

Chrisman- Great pics! Love those Tamiya bodies! How's your cars now?

By the way, The minor setup changes that made the car sweeter to drive are:

Went from super hard springs down 1 spring rate in the front. This means that I'm using the same springs front and rear-hard-(rcspeedo likes it).
Went up to 50 weight oil-front and 60-rear.
Laid the front shocks down 1 from the bottom. Rear is 1 from the top.
Sorex 40 tires.
4 wheel drive
2 deg. toe in- front

This will give you a very responsive setup without the rear getting out of shape. Learn to drive the car agressively!

Let off the throttle just before the turn, setup, then get on the gas earlier than you're used to. Even just before the apex and continue accelerating. Just keep the wheel pointed in the direction you want to go and it will follow. Trust me, there will be a healthy amount of "on power steering" to keep it in line.

Practice the technique since your first instinct is to wait until the apex or just after before throttling.

If you do it right, you can hug the inside line on a sweeper, dive under another car or accelerate staying to the inside as they are fading to the outside.

1 last thing- Make sure your diffs. especially your rear is tight and not slipping. If you do this, there will be more forces on the rear diffs under acceleration in the turns and will waste power slipping. I run mine pretty tight, and it fells a little crunchy. That's ok since there is no unloading of the diff, no damage done.

Enjoy!

MonSoon

Myx... see i told you! that those plastic diffs backs off after a couple runs, u have to check it every 2nd run, i still have a few more of those diffs... also the drag from the tweaked bulkheads can be cause by dirt or carpet fuzz, between bearing and the bulkheads

MYXTYPLYX

Monsoon- I was neglegent and it cost me. Got any more you can spare?

The drag described is far and above the normal cleaning, lubbing that must be done normally. This drag stays no matter what you do untill you fix it.

One more thing, do not over tighten wheel nuts as the pressure on the bearings also cause drag and will wear out those bearings in a hurry. Just snug up. I like to back off about an 8th of a turn.

What? Having problems keeping your wheels on your car? Make sure you use fresh wheel nuts that will not back off during the race. They are cheep, keep some spares handy.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Yeah!!!!!......look .. who's here???.Monsoon.
It's about time you show up...So you racin this weekend?.....
I may go with Melvin.... as for the other guys??>...Coming out??.

Yes,new wheel nuts is good.I find the nylon wheel nuts works well.Who has lost wheel more than us??....Hintt!!hint!!..

See ya!!.

AE_Racer

Chris, about how much does the 6.0 Pro ver. 2 cost USD?

rcspeedo

See I told you plastic diffs are the way to go. Chris, do u have any?, It's the plastic outdrives I wanted. Part number is 7S-500P. I'll also grab a pair of those plastic batt holders.

I'll be going this weekend early again to get some practice time. Hopefully they setup the track on time.

What time r u guys going?

BTW - I was using Associated copper springs in front and yellow in the rear with 40 wt all over. I'll change to 50 next year. I'm happy with my current setup.

And also, I'll be more aggressive this coming week

This is how the other guys will look like in my class ---->

HAHA!

RC Lab

It is $189.99 at Speedtech and Mdi Racing.

Their website are:
www.speedtechrc.com www.mdiracing.com

rcspeedo

I have noticed something.

I'm not sure if this is old news, but by not overtightening the screws in the rear and front bulkheads will loosen up your diffs. Similar to when I were using my old TC3, loosening up the diff covers.

I tried this last Sat and I liked it.

Later

MYXTYPLYX

rcspeedo- Loosening the screws is kinda like a patch for the real problem. If you fix the prob. then you can tighten the bulkheads down.
Keeping scews loose is not really advisable. I've tried it and at some point the screws will back out and drag on the track.

Fix the prob. and then you don't need to worry.

_neas_

I am ordering from Steve at Speedtech tomorrow and I might as well get some 'extras' since I am paying for shipping anyway. Anyone have any luck with the sway bars?

Beyond the Ver II stock car I have added the upgraded shock towers and I am ordering the plastic outdrives....any other suggestions?

shockwave

well...looks liek I'm going with an evo. I got a great deal. striaght out trade on my Pro2 for an EVO!! 7even will have to wait

AE_Racer

thats the reg, I was talking about the one that Chris showed in his post a bit down with all the red stuff on it.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hello Ae Racer,

The 6.0 ver 2 I have is custom anodize to my liking.It only comes anodize aluminium from Mdi or Speedtech.I beleive Mdi is offering the anodizing services.If you are interested in customizing to your own colour you may give them a shout.Other wise,there's only 2 red hot chili pepper red 6.0 which I have now.Any more questions abt the anodizing ,Pm/e-mail me.

Chrisman>

MonSoon

hey chris.... i still want mine green.. heheh... and yes i can go this Saturday....

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hey Monsoon,

It's abt time you show up... call Melvin ..he's coming out too.Looks like I'm coming too....

Chrisman>