Pauly6401

iTrader: (53)

After struggling my way through Sportsman last weekend at the Superior Hobbies Race in Orlando (until the rain hit, at least), I was stoked to find this thread on here. I watched the Vintage class (largest class at the races on Sunday, the only one that had to run two heats, I think!) and thought it looked like a lot of fun.

I was kind of sad to see that they were running 13.5 though (at least I'm pretty sure they were). That's faster than what I am running in Sportsman AND the 17.5 Touring class. I'll be interested to see if the motors get knocked down to 17.5/27T in the future. If it's already there, sorry for the mistake, but the stuff on the web I see says that it's 13.5 here in the Sunshine State.

Anyways, once I graduate from Sportsman, I think I will be turning the XXX-S I am currently running into a Vintage Trans Am car and keeping the costs down while enjoying the racing! Hopefully that class stays big and competitive here! That way I can keep using my trusty Losi and if I want to go crazy I'll just build up something a little more modern for one of the dedicated TC classes.

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

Pauly, I do know that Tim and the boys down there are well aware that the 13.5 is too much in Trans Am and I am pretty sure they are planning to tone it down to the USVTA outdoor rules or at least closer.

HOWEVER, even if they don't, I'm a HUGE proponent of motoring down if you are aware and sharp enough to recognize that the speeds of a given class are more than you can handle. There is nothing preventing you from running a 17.5 if they run 13.5s or even a 21.5 if it makes you a smoother and better driver. Consistency will win a race more often than pure speed. My 1/12th scale car now permanently has a stock motor in it, when most guys in this area are interested in 10.5/19T in the 1/12th cars. I know what my limits are, and the car is much more enjoyable within my window of skills.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with less motor or less battery if it makes you drive better.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

I got our local Hobby Town to add Vintage Trans-Am for thier outdoor program this summer. Had our first race this past weekend and had 4 cars show up. We played with 4 cell 27 turn, 4 cell 19 turn and I even tried a lipo and 27turn.

We agreed that the 4 cell 27 turn works well. We also will have a few try 4 cell 17.5 and see if that will work as well. So with the interest, we should have 6-8 racers this weekend (2nd free weekend if we don't get snowed out!!)

We have not set final drive ratio's yet but might do so in the future.

I'll try and get some pictures this weekend.

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

ok guy's I will b up for this race and I have no 17.5 or co27 wheel time ... what is a good fdr for brushed and brushless ? I will be running a T2 008 eu and us... is 3.9 good for BL and 6.0 for brushed ..thanx

robk

iTrader: (22)

5.2 - 5.5 27t

3.5-4.0 novak 17.5

Maybe lower due to the new layout?????

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

Rob, are you really running a CO27 at 5.2 -5.5? If thats the case that explains why my car is so slow.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

I ran a 5.33 on my CO27 on the layout a few weeks ago at The Track and it was def. fast. I'm looking forward to putting in a 17.5, though.

rcracenut

iTrader: (52)

Has there been any thought as to making rules for an entry level class? I personally like the idea of brushless and lipo. But there should be a class set up with the budget or newbie racer in mind. When a budget racer looks at the ending total of $800+ to compete in the Trans am class they may turn and go to something else. I personally have seen alot of racers leave the sedan class just because of the money investment. In my opinion, that is what is killing the rubber sedan class.
My suggestion would be to only allow previous model cars, silver can motors, 4 cell batteries and treaded tires. This would allow the budget racer to compete for under $400.
If we want sedans to exist into the next decade or longer, we need to help the newbies get in and experience the fun without being out gunned from the start.
Our future doesn't only rely on the existing racer but adding new racers to our group.

killingtime

iTrader: (3)

I agree that what is killing sedan will do the same to T/A, if it's not controlled. Previous years model chassis, that would help. Silver cans, won't fit into all chassis motor mounts. 4 cell and treaded tires are already in the rules.

Getting back to those pesky sliver cans. I would have loved to run those if they fit. Speedpassion is selling a brushless motor and esc combo that has been tested to be very comprable to the silver cans. The Speed Passion Exige is priced under $90 and would solve alot of those problems with buying a dozen motors to find that rocket and sell off 11 duds. Just a thought.

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

FWIW, my brother is running a $65 9-year old FTTC3 on a used Novak GTB and a $65 Novak 17.5, with some $15 4200 packs, and he's doing very well with it.

There are some VERY fast old Tamiya cars running around (and winning regularly) as well as having one of the fastest local cars as an HPI Pro4 shaft drive chassis.

With the 21.5/LiPo combo on the horizon for this class, I personally don't see the need for an "entry level" version. It's pretty entry level as it is, spanning all the way up to very experienced—which is how classes should be.

I'm not going to win this weekend or even come close—and I don't aspire to—but I guarantee you I will have plenty of guys at my talent level to race with—and we'll all have cars of every vintage.

This class is honestly NOT about the money invested or the chassis, but more about the chassis setup and the driver. There will always be fast guys in every class, and they are fast for a reason (and it's not how much they have spent). Start out at the bottom, practice like a mo-fo, learn everything you can about YOUR car, and move your way up. It's how everyone has done it before.


Just my 2¢.

robk

iTrader: (22)

I traded a 3 year old cyclone to get a Tc5 to run in trans am.

1st race: Beaten by my old car on the last lap (3 year old cyclone)

Several weeks later:Beaten by a XXXS that probably had not been on a track in 4 years. Literally.

Hurricane Series race in February: Beaten by a Tamiya EVO IV shaft car (I know they are on V by now..and that's kinda old)

Not to mention, I have been run down by the evil Pro4 mentioned by Doug as well. There's a guy who runs in the top 3 with a TB01.

Driving and setup matter a lot more than what car you own. Not to mention luck, which can run out real fast with 9 (or more!!!) other cars on the track.

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

Rob,

That guy who runs in the top 3 runs a TB02 not a TB01, but the TB02 is still an older car with limited gearing.

robk

iTrader: (22)

There you go

Pauly6401

iTrader: (53)

I honestly don't see how a class can get much cheaper than this one already is. As several have mentioned, you can race with a decade old (or older) car - TC3, XXX-S, etc. Right there, you are talking about a car you can pick up for less than $100 easily. With mandated bodies and tires, you don't have to worry about going through a new set of tires every run. A good stock motor, even the ones that are worked over and tuned run $30-40, and ESCs are so cheap for brushed motors that you could find one for $40, used. Even used GTXs are like $60. I could see you getting the full package for under $400easily. RC racing will never be super cheap, that's just the price of admission. But the fact that this class has been set up so that all the rules fit on one page (have you ever sat down and tried to read the ROAR rules? man, it's insane), that 10+ year old cars can be competitive, and that all the associated electrics can run about $150 (radio, ESC, motor and batteries) you're doing pretty well. That's the appeal for me and many others.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Well I too was kinda on the "Vintage" chassis bandwagon but have fallen off. I know its mostly setup but I have both a TC5 and a XXX-S. I normally run my XXX-S in TA but recently since I am going to the Nats I wanted to shave some weight so I tried the TC5. I tried it for almost a month and my times with my XXX-S are still better. If you are just getting into it just get a decent cheap car and run.. it'll be fine... don't overanalyze it you'll ruin your fun.