B-44 REAR TOP CHASSIS PLATE ALWAYS BREAKING
01-11-2008, 01:37 AM
#46
the problem with a thicker rear top-deck is that it will raise your rear shock tower, this will change your droop, it will change the max upward travel and also very slightly change the angle of your shocks.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
01-11-2008, 05:12 AM
#47
Very good point Doughty.I am going to look at these issues A little closer this evening.I definately don't want to sacrifice the setup for strength.
01-11-2008, 08:45 AM
#48
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
To the people with failure...
Was your rear ball studs loose at the time of the failure? Its highly possible since they loosen easily and this will cause premature failure of the top plate. Make sure you check them regularly. Mine where tight and loosened after a few runs.
Was your rear ball studs loose at the time of the failure? Its highly possible since they loosen easily and this will cause premature failure of the top plate. Make sure you check them regularly. Mine where tight and loosened after a few runs.
01-11-2008, 09:18 AM
#49
the problem with a thicker rear top-deck is that it will raise your rear shock tower, this will change your droop, it will change the max upward travel and also very slightly change the angle of your shocks.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
01-11-2008, 09:21 AM
#50
the problem with a thicker rear top-deck is that it will raise your rear shock tower, this will change your droop, it will change the max upward travel and also very slightly change the angle of your shocks.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
I don't believe the solution is a thicker rear top deck unless you combine that with a different rear shock tower that brings the shock mounts back 'down' to stock locations.
01-15-2008, 01:13 PM
#52
I broke another top plate over the weekend. I had big washers on the top and bottom and my ballstud was still tight. The really frustrating part was what broke the plate was such a minor incident. I was coming around a 180 and another car dove inside me for the pass and punted (slid) me over a few feet. The impact of that car tapping me snapped it off again. The impact didn't even wreck me or push me into a pipe or wall. Just a good bump to my right rear wheel and it was done 
The only lucky thing is that it was the other side as the previous breakage, so now I have two top plates stacked and I'm using the inner ball stud position where there's plate left on even the broken ones. Now I just need some setup work to make up for the tower being raised up the thickness of the other plate. I moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arm and it was a handful during the main after I'd been driving 2 days with them outside.
I just hope Associated is able to make and get a change out soon, I really doubt that I'm going to by another top plate if the 1 and a half I have on each side breaks. At $20 a pop it ain't worth it.
The only lucky thing is that it was the other side as the previous breakage, so now I have two top plates stacked and I'm using the inner ball stud position where there's plate left on even the broken ones. Now I just need some setup work to make up for the tower being raised up the thickness of the other plate. I moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arm and it was a handful during the main after I'd been driving 2 days with them outside.
I just hope Associated is able to make and get a change out soon, I really doubt that I'm going to by another top plate if the 1 and a half I have on each side breaks. At $20 a pop it ain't worth it.
01-15-2008, 03:08 PM
#53
Tech Regular
I broke another top plate over the weekend. I had big washers on the top and bottom and my ballstud was still tight. The really frustrating part was what broke the plate was such a minor incident. I was coming around a 180 and another car dove inside me for the pass and punted (slid) me over a few feet. The impact of that car tapping me snapped it off again. The impact didn't even wreck me or push me into a pipe or wall. Just a good bump to my right rear wheel and it was done
The only lucky thing is that it was the other side as the previous breakage, so now I have two top plates stacked and I'm using the inner ball stud position where there's plate left on even the broken ones. Now I just need some setup work to make up for the tower being raised up the thickness of the other plate. I moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arm and it was a handful during the main after I'd been driving 2 days with them outside.
I just hope Associated is able to make and get a change out soon, I really doubt that I'm going to by another top plate if the 1 and a half I have on each side breaks. At $20 a pop it ain't worth it.
The only lucky thing is that it was the other side as the previous breakage, so now I have two top plates stacked and I'm using the inner ball stud position where there's plate left on even the broken ones. Now I just need some setup work to make up for the tower being raised up the thickness of the other plate. I moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arm and it was a handful during the main after I'd been driving 2 days with them outside.
I just hope Associated is able to make and get a change out soon, I really doubt that I'm going to by another top plate if the 1 and a half I have on each side breaks. At $20 a pop it ain't worth it.
01-15-2008, 03:47 PM
#56
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
RB FIVE...I use LOSI thin CA with the wicking tube...I apply small amounts to the edge and use a tooth pick to spread the glue evenly along the edge...it only takes a small amount...once it dries I sand with 1000 grit sand paper and apply another light coat...I don't sand the last coat...I do this to all my graphite parts
C.R. Lovell
C.R. Lovell
01-15-2008, 03:49 PM
#57
Tech Addict
Take some jewelers files and file the edges round. Then simply take CA and a QTip and squirt some glue on the QTip and smear the edges. Don't use too much. Look for a good glossy surface, and if it still looks dull reapply some more glue.
01-15-2008, 04:53 PM
#58
Here's my top plate fix. Replaced the ball studs with some 10mm ones. Shock tower not effected. Also I put way bigger washers under the studs (same thickness as stock). The brace is a hack job but I did it in like 15 minutes with a dremal.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43...opplatefix.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43...pplatefix2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43...opplatefix.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43...pplatefix2.jpg
Last edited by RBMike; 01-15-2008 at 05:11 PM.
01-15-2008, 07:37 PM
#59
That looks like a great way to beef it up!
01-15-2008, 09:16 PM
#60
I started sealing my carbon fiber parts with CA from my onroad days. CRC has a good how-to on chassis prep on their site.
Carbon Fiber Chassis Prep
As always, use caution when working with CA.
Carbon Fiber Chassis Prep
As always, use caution when working with CA.