xraysteve

ok it is getting late so i put the inner camber link on the bottom hole on the in side is that low roll center. or should i move it to the out side hole. please post i will check before i hit the track tomorrow.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Well, This is my first post in this thread. But after reading 40 or so posts I can see I will be here ALOT lol.

Paul- any insight for NT1 chassis tuning that the book doesn't talk about.. ? I got some good insight from ralph on diffs , front bars etc. do you find your always trying to get more steering out of the car also?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

read pretty much all of pauls responses wow... lol

Paul/ Barry/ Steve W- on rubber tires, how does raising and lowering the diff position affect the handling on power, off power, turnin, midcorner, and exit balance? same with running the 50mm drive shafts vs 52mm (I noticed tim did that on one of his asphalt races in australia)

Paul- do you have a stratus 3.1 NT1 body post template your willing to part with? lol

Steve- are you going to be at bcr tomorrow?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

For those that were asking about the 008 front chassis brace. I belive it was to stiffen the front of the EU car on carpet so the car was less likely to overheat the front tires..

Patrick

xraysteve

ok today i ran the las Vegas setup but with a front diff. i ended up running the silver springs(17.5) in the front and gold(14) in the rear. the camber was 1.5 front 2.5 rear. i was unsure of the roll center so i ran the front inside high hole and the rear inside low hole. i got my but kick by a cyclone and i can not have that. the car was loose off power and neutral. the rear is still stiffer to the feel in the rear. even with stiffer springs and thicker oil in the front. it always seems that way. why is that? the car traction rolled twice in the main. so what do you think i should do?

Steve Weiss

Yes, I was at BCR Yesterday!

As far as diff height goes with running rubber tires:

-Front low, generally more turn in with less mid corner/exit steering

-Front High, smoother turn in with more mid corner and exit steering

-Running the front with the #1 eccentrics adds even more mid corner at the expense of stability...and more on power steering exiting the corner

-Rear Low, generally less turn in, less forward bite, less side bite

-Rear high, generally more turn in, more forward bite, more side bite

-Haven't really gotten around to running the #1 eccentric high in the rear as of yet

Overall the best balance so far is std high front and rear... #1 high both front and rear is definately one of the things I want to try over the next few weeks.

As far as the drive shafts go the 52 mm drive shafts will keep the car flatter and more stable in most instances.

I've been running 50 mm drive shafts the last few weeks at BCR because it's a very small, tight track and it just seems to work better getting the car to work in the tighter turns.

Paul L

Sorry guys, I fell off the horse for a couple of days on this.

Ridge racer: Did you figure out what it was?

Customworksking: Im not totally sure, a couple could easily pop up but the reedy race for sure.

XraySteve: When i say low roll center i am always talking about the lower inner hinge pin as ottoman said. Their are three different ones, so low in the back and high in the front. the camber links i would run as the set up sheet states. Sorry for leaving you hanging like this. hope you did well anyways.

rx7ttlm: Hi Patrick, Thanks for adding about the chassis brace.
on my NT1 I have tried alot of crazy things and sometimes it works, but the things never seem to work from track to track because the tracks are always very different from one another. i think this is why you normally see Everyone using a very prooven standard set up everywhere.
Untill i can beat Ralph i am going to keep my mouth shut because his and barrys set ups seem to always work very well while mine are always hit or miss. I am always looking for more steering with a nitro car and that is why i normally run soft tires to get more but that dosent help for the 45min final. but i have tried alot and i think now your best bet would be Ralphs winternats set-up.

I just always use an old body to mark the holes in my new ones. I would just mark the holes before you paint the body.
I do know that the 52mm dog bones drive smoother, in my opinion (no facts) the shorter bones will be more reactive or change direction, and squair up better but not be as smooth and flowing as the longer ones. I dont think one is always better than the other.
As for the diff height, I dont know much. i always shoot for the bones to be fairly close to the angle of the lower suspension arm. I know that diff height has alot to do with mechanical things, but I would need to test it alot more to know what you are going to feel on the track.

Thanks, paul

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Hey Paul, I'm converting my 007 carpet car to rubber and have changed all the aluminum suspension parts back to plastic. I know this softens things up but does it make that big a difference ?
Thanks.

xraysteve

ok i am sorry if i seem stupid but i want to get this right.

the las vegas setup shows the roll center front 00 and +75 in the rear of the front and the rear 00 and 00. is that right. the setup sheet dos not show were to put the center camber link at all not the front or the rear.

if you want me to run the rear arms as low to the chassis as they will go that would be -75 and -75. i have the us chassis and the extra hard arms bind on the chassis.

i hope you can understand some of what i am saying

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Steve- as I said I moved down here, where is there a hobby shop that supports xray 008 and nt1?

Ridge_Racer

iTrader: (1)

Paul

I have no idea what could be the problem with my front end. It seems to only bind when I put the camber links on. Otherwise the Arm will come to a rest on the chassis bottom plate.

I made sure the camber links and the steering links were the correct size. I switch the forward camber links with the rear camber links. Finally, I put the squeeze on the ball ends on both side of the camber link. I can't find any way to loosen up the front to where the Arm will come to a rest on the chassis instead of being suspended in the air like it is now.

Thanks for any suggestions.

NOOB-SMOKE

iTrader: (10)

hey paul
on your rear shock tower are they front body post,to stop body from jamming on rear tyres
which hole on the shock tower did you mount to,and how long are they.
cheers noob

Paul L

Xraysteve: It is always hard to understand things on line, and i dont always make it totally clear.
here is a link for my vegas set up, i think you may have been looking at the wrong one. The front roll celters are +75 and the rear is -75. the camber links are marked. I hope the link works, you might have to copy and paste it to the top bar because i dont know how to make a link.
In fact i just learned how to copy and paste. That is how bad i am with pc's, SAD!

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008

Jag88: we do run plastic most of the time with our rubber cars, but No i dont think putting plastic on the car will make that big of a difference.

Ridgeracer: is the camber link free, can you rotate it back and forth freely with your fingers while it is hooked up?

Paul L

Noob-Smoke: No I have never done that. but i think that some of the guys have done it using the farthest out (or most stood up) shock hole on the tower. If i were to do it i would most likely drill new holes for this, then just trim the posts as i try and fit the body on, trim little by little untill it perfectly touches the body when its on.

Thanks, paul

panther420

Hey Paul, Thanks for posting your setup.. The link worked perfectly
just a few quick questions.. Where do you have your outer ackermann position at? What would be the difference between using 4 or 2 degree caster blocks? And I noticed you used a solid front axle. Why did you choose to use that over a one way diff?
Thanks for all you help and time