GT class--buggy-based on road!
#1471
Yea, if I can keep it running the entire main. My IGT1 with your setup (with a couple of tweaks) actually handles better than my 200mm touring car. Thanks again for that setup. If we continue to run the box stock Spec class, I may get the IGT2 engine for my IGT1. The IGT2 seems to be a much better constructed engine. Anyway, I am having a blast running the car and I hope to race against you someday soon, just to see where I stand driving-skill wise.
Hey whats happening Jspeed my name is D and im new to the nitro GT class racing and I own 2-IGT1 and the IGT2 and im really trying to get these cars to be able to travel and race with them,when I first got the audiGT2 I won the I-95 race in maryland at 301 raceway!! straight out the box with just changing to a 3 shoe flywheel and 1.1 springs and carbon shoes but the car still had problems too so I was wondering if not a biggie can you give me some help on parts and setup it will be greatly appreciated and you can PM it to me too and I also used a .21 on-road motor that I had lying around it had rpm but not enough torque for the cornering but still fast though!!! it was the RB Xenon R murnanmodified!!!! once again thanks!!!
I think a .21 is like a 302ci engine, if it ain't near it's red-line, it ain't making serious power. I'm thinking "Lady Redline"
You could try harder clutch springs, a different pipe could wake it up too.
For set-up you could try:
0 to +1 degree front camber
1/2 to 1 degree front toe out
-2 1/2 to 3 1/2 degrees rear camber
-2 degree rear toe-in ( IF-124B )
Try short wheelbase set-up
Heavy sway-bars
As low as you can go without dragging the chassis.
Very little rear droop and almost nothing up front.
O'yea..... get ya some Ipanemas, a set-up is only as good as the tires.
Last edited by Jspeed; 11-04-2008 at 06:23 PM.
#1473
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Mika, I tried the IGW004-8022 springs, they seemed cool. I should have tried the RTR springs,but I had these and they looked better. Car was smooth with 80W oil too.
Juan, When we get torace I hope I get lucky, I hear you're fast
I bet that engine flys, I'd run the 14/19 clutch gears with the IGT1 spur gears and let that monkey scream
I think a .21 is like a 302ci engine, if it ain't near it's red-line, it ain't making serious power. I'm thinking "Lady Redline"
You could try harder clutch springs, a different pipe could wake it up too.
For set-up you could try:
0 to +1 degree front camber
1/2 to 1 degree front toe out
-2 1/2 to 3 1/2 degrees rear camber
-2 degree rear toe-in ( IF-124B )
Try short wheelbase set-up
Heavy sway-bars
As low as you can go without dragging the chassis.
Very little rear droop and almost nothing up front.
O'yea..... get ya some Ipanemas, a set-up is only as good as the tires.
Juan, When we get torace I hope I get lucky, I hear you're fast
I bet that engine flys, I'd run the 14/19 clutch gears with the IGT1 spur gears and let that monkey scream
I think a .21 is like a 302ci engine, if it ain't near it's red-line, it ain't making serious power. I'm thinking "Lady Redline"
You could try harder clutch springs, a different pipe could wake it up too.
For set-up you could try:
0 to +1 degree front camber
1/2 to 1 degree front toe out
-2 1/2 to 3 1/2 degrees rear camber
-2 degree rear toe-in ( IF-124B )
Try short wheelbase set-up
Heavy sway-bars
As low as you can go without dragging the chassis.
Very little rear droop and almost nothing up front.
O'yea..... get ya some Ipanemas, a set-up is only as good as the tires.
#1474
Thanks alot Jspeed I really appreciate that and ill appreciate if you can help me out in the future as well too but Did you mean that I should run the 14/19 on the pinion gears and the GT1 spurs on the GT2 and stay with the .21 xenon R murnanmodified or use different motor!!! I asked this because I own both of the infernos the 1 and the 2 and is this setup good for both vehicles!! and once again thanks!! D
I ran the 14/19 with the stock .28 and it had serious grunt pulling out of turns. A engine like yours should pull harder. If it's a "Screaming Monkey" motor it should be able to sing with the IGT1 spur gears too. I don't know low long the back stretch at your track is, but that combo might work well if you're not worried about RPM.
If the engine is tight, drop in some new bearings & a rod with a top end pipe to rev. Back in the day I learned there are 2 ways to make horsepower. the formula goes like this: "RPM x Torque = Horse Power"
The way I understand it up there at your track, you're racing the GT cars in an "Open" type class, correct? So, if you got an engine that can rev, use the rpm to your advantage.
That set-up info I gave you will be a good start for both IGT chassis, 1 or 2.
Good luck.
#1475
Lets hope 2009 can get us over to that track in Mexico for a race.
Later Bro
#1476
Just bought the GT2 Corvette...keepin' up with the juan's (jlock)... Actually, I am at the Vegas race. Spooky (Gus Woods) works for one of the LHS's and has been tempting me with the car... he brought one down just in case I decided that I needed it. Well he broke a shock shaft and we both were thinking about the 'spare'. My wife came down last night... I flashed the 'oh please, oh please, oh please' and she caved in... woo hoo... I had to pull the radio gear out and replace it with the gear from the GT. Changed the shocks to my 'old' shocks and replaced the steering assembly. Broke in (sorta) the engine and headed out to run a tank on the track. Once we leaned out the engine a bit this thing really ran strong and oh my heck speed when the 21/40 starts winding up.
Now for the complaints... the paint inside the body is the wrong type. It flakes. Wrong type of paint Kyosho!! There is only side to side adjustment with the engine mounts. The pinions are very tight to the spurs front to rear. I think that this may have contributed to the second gear stripping at the end of the first tank. Yeah.. I didn't check the mesh before running it.. Doooh! While I rebuilt the two speed this evening I saw the tightness. Qualifiers in the morning. We'll see.
I ran the car with 1000 wt in all four shocks. Rear layed down all the way (outside-bottom, inside-top) and in the middle top-front. No sways. 3 degrees in the rear. The car ran very well. Turned tight and held a good line (not great ... yet) in the high speed sweeper. The new engine is a big improvement from the GT.... as good or better than the Axial .28 (gray head). Still working on the low speed needle... trying to get some more snap out of it... I know it's there... just gotta find it...
Overall...first impression....A real step up from the GT.
Now for the complaints... the paint inside the body is the wrong type. It flakes. Wrong type of paint Kyosho!! There is only side to side adjustment with the engine mounts. The pinions are very tight to the spurs front to rear. I think that this may have contributed to the second gear stripping at the end of the first tank. Yeah.. I didn't check the mesh before running it.. Doooh! While I rebuilt the two speed this evening I saw the tightness. Qualifiers in the morning. We'll see.
I ran the car with 1000 wt in all four shocks. Rear layed down all the way (outside-bottom, inside-top) and in the middle top-front. No sways. 3 degrees in the rear. The car ran very well. Turned tight and held a good line (not great ... yet) in the high speed sweeper. The new engine is a big improvement from the GT.... as good or better than the Axial .28 (gray head). Still working on the low speed needle... trying to get some more snap out of it... I know it's there... just gotta find it...
Overall...first impression....A real step up from the GT.
Last edited by Zootcapri; 11-08-2008 at 07:12 PM.
#1477
must be 1000cps or ~100wt, I'm using 70wt
#1478
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Just bought the GT2 Corvette...keepin' up with the juan's (jlock)... Actually, I am at the Vegas race. Spooky (Gus Woods) works for one on the LHS's and has been tempting me with the car... he brought one down just in case I decided that I needed it. Well he broke a shock shaft and we both were thinking about the 'spare'. My wife came down last night... I flashed the 'oh please, oh please, oh please' and she caved in... woo hoo... I had to pull the radio gear out and replace it with the gear from the GT. Changed the shocks to my 'old' shocks and replaced the steering assembly. Broke in (sorta) the engine and headed out to run a tank on the track. Once we leaned out the engine a bit this thing really ran strong and oh my heck speed when the 21/40 starts winding up.
Now for the complaints... the paint inside the body is the wrong type. It flakes. Wrong type of paint Kyosho!! There is only side to side adjustment with the engine mounts. The pinions are very tight to the spurs front to rear. I think that this may have contributed to the second gear stripping at the end of the first tank. Yeah.. I didn't check the mesh before running it.. Doooh! While I rebuilt the two speed this evening I saw the tightness. Qualifiers in the morning. We'll see.
I ran the car with 1000 wt in all four shocks. Rear layed down all the way (outside-bottom, inside-top) and in the middle top-front. No sways. 3 degrees in the rear. The car ran very well. Turned tight and held a good line (not great ... yet) in the high speed sweeper. The new engine is a big improvement from the GT.... as good or better than the Axial .28 (gray head). Still working on the low speed needle... trying to get some more snap out of it... I know it's there... just gotta find it...
Overall...first impression....A real step up from the GT.
Now for the complaints... the paint inside the body is the wrong type. It flakes. Wrong type of paint Kyosho!! There is only side to side adjustment with the engine mounts. The pinions are very tight to the spurs front to rear. I think that this may have contributed to the second gear stripping at the end of the first tank. Yeah.. I didn't check the mesh before running it.. Doooh! While I rebuilt the two speed this evening I saw the tightness. Qualifiers in the morning. We'll see.
I ran the car with 1000 wt in all four shocks. Rear layed down all the way (outside-bottom, inside-top) and in the middle top-front. No sways. 3 degrees in the rear. The car ran very well. Turned tight and held a good line (not great ... yet) in the high speed sweeper. The new engine is a big improvement from the GT.... as good or better than the Axial .28 (gray head). Still working on the low speed needle... trying to get some more snap out of it... I know it's there... just gotta find it...
Overall...first impression....A real step up from the GT.
#1479
#1480
More on the GT2... I took apart the two speed to rebuild it and the rear drive cup fell out. The set screw was loose. Yeah... another thing I should of checked. The second gear stripping was totally a mesh issue. I set it (the mesh) real tight and no problems all day. An interesting (well.. at least to me) point about performance. The new engine runs best rich.. top and bottom. I tried to lean it out and almost had a melt down. It felt that it needed to be leaned, but, when I richened the high speed and a little on the low speed it came alive. On a related issue... on the GT we had to tighten the two speed adjustment all the way tight.. and it would still shift early.. well.. the new configuration needs to shift early and then it pulls very well thank you. I kept loosening it a bit at a time and where I thought it was a dog at slow speeds... it just needed to shift early and let the torque of the new engine work the 21/40 gearing. Way cool.
One other not too cool thing... the double rotor disk setup isn't the hot ticket. I now have two thin stamped steel disks that are round in the middle... no flat spot to mesh with the drive cup.. I mean that it ate through the softish metal and became useless. I took the turned rotor and sintered pads off the GT and the problem went away.
The small problems are not discouraging to me. Just annoying. Like me...
One other not too cool thing... the double rotor disk setup isn't the hot ticket. I now have two thin stamped steel disks that are round in the middle... no flat spot to mesh with the drive cup.. I mean that it ate through the softish metal and became useless. I took the turned rotor and sintered pads off the GT and the problem went away.
The small problems are not discouraging to me. Just annoying. Like me...
Last edited by Zootcapri; 11-08-2008 at 07:28 PM.
#1482
I just got back from Vegas. I won the B main and transferred to the A (11th) had some luck passing and was mid pack when the engine stalled. I may have run out of fuel. It had started to rain and a LOT of wheel spin which would have used more fuel... dunno.... The A main had mostly factory type drivers with rocketship engines. I ran the GT2 that I bought Friday afternoon. I was never on the pace of the top drivers... but the car was great and respectable.. stock (except for tires, brakes and electronics).
GT A Main
1. Paul Coleman
2. Jeffery Lin
3. Brian Thomas
GT A Main
1. Paul Coleman
2. Jeffery Lin
3. Brian Thomas
Last edited by Zootcapri; 11-10-2008 at 05:53 PM.
#1483
I just got back from Vegas. I won the B main and transferred to the A (11th) had some luck passing and was mid pack when the engine stalled. I may have run out of fuel. It had started to rain and a LOT of wheel spin which would have used more fuel... dunno.... The A main had mostly factory type drivers with rocketship engines. I ran the GT2 that I bought Friday afternoon. I was never on the pace of the top drivers... but the car was great and respectable.. stock (except for tires and electronics).
GT A Main
1. Paul Coleman
2. Jeffery Lin
3. Brian Thomas
GT A Main
1. Paul Coleman
2. Jeffery Lin
3. Brian Thomas
When you say rocketship engines, are you meaning the class was run where you can run whatever? I thought the GT2 class was a spec class or am I misunderstanding something?
Last edited by modhobby; 11-10-2008 at 01:28 PM. Reason: forgot to mention...
#1484
I'm interested in getting into this class but wanted to know what engines the "factory" guys are running. In florida they want to run factory engines or 28 pull start engines.