GT class--buggy-based on road!
06-23-2011, 09:10 PM
#6811
06-23-2011, 09:29 PM
#6812
advantages advantages advantages
You get a little less front traction with the add weight transfer to the rear.
It also increases total caster which makes the car a little more stable on the straight not to mention the added stability from the extended chassis.
a little on power steering may be lost but play with the rear droop to get the car to rotate its a powerful adjustment hope this helps you go fast as $#!T.
Last edited by nitrodash; 06-23-2011 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Thinking faster than I can type
06-24-2011, 03:24 AM
#6813
Ipanema GT Racing Slicks
Last edited by Jspeed; 06-24-2011 at 03:28 AM. Reason: add pictures
06-24-2011, 06:22 AM
#6814
Off power steering decreases with kick up.
You get a little less front traction with the add weight transfer to the rear.
It also increases total caster which makes the car a little more stable on the straight not to mention the added stability from the extended chassis.
a little on power steering may be lost but play with the rear droop to get the car to rotate its a powerful adjustment hope this helps you go fast as $#!T.
You get a little less front traction with the add weight transfer to the rear.
It also increases total caster which makes the car a little more stable on the straight not to mention the added stability from the extended chassis.
a little on power steering may be lost but play with the rear droop to get the car to rotate its a powerful adjustment hope this helps you go fast as $#!T.
has a 4 deg. plate and some of the other manufactures offer a way to adjust this. I am pretty sure anti-dive effects cg of the car so you need to do some testing but it's an option for folks with a ski jump chassis.
06-24-2011, 07:29 AM
#6815
Another way to combat the crazy high caster + kickup (total caster) on the buggy conversions is with front anti dive plates. I know O'Donnell
has a 4 deg. plate and some of the other manufactures offer a way to adjust this. I am pretty sure anti-dive effects cg of the car so you need to do some testing but it's an option for folks with a ski jump chassis.
has a 4 deg. plate and some of the other manufactures offer a way to adjust this. I am pretty sure anti-dive effects cg of the car so you need to do some testing but it's an option for folks with a ski jump chassis.
06-24-2011, 11:11 AM
#6816
No caster adjustment on the zo1b..
I would assume thats why the anti dive plates were made
available.
I would assume thats why the anti dive plates were made
available.
06-24-2011, 02:12 PM
#6817
Alot of guys have been down this road, it's not worth the effort to fix and defeats the whole purpose of running these cars. If you have to have a flat chassis and some caster adjustability get yourself a DM1 spec.
Alot of tuning can be done with the diffs that really effects the handling and off power steering with these cars. The Losi L8ight offers spools and a front one-way setup along with very trick locking diffs. They may not be legal where you race though and I have only seen one 2 speed conversion done.
Alot of tuning can be done with the diffs that really effects the handling and off power steering with these cars. The Losi L8ight offers spools and a front one-way setup along with very trick locking diffs. They may not be legal where you race though and I have only seen one 2 speed conversion done.
06-24-2011, 04:45 PM
#6818
06-24-2011, 10:47 PM
#6819
06-25-2011, 03:23 AM
#6820
So I went and ordered this Kyosho CB with Evolva pinions for my DM1. The bell thoigh is very thin, and looks like it wouldn't fit right with the new Ascendancy Clutch I got for it. So my question is, how would astock IGT2 clutch be? I want something carbon to preserve the bell.., and cheap. Was looking at the orange Go clutch with long-life carbon-covered shoes. Anybody run one?
06-25-2011, 03:25 AM
#6821
So I went and ordered this Kyosho CB with Evolva pinions for my DM1. The bell thoigh is very thin, and looks like it wouldn't fit right with the new Ascendancy Clutch I got for it. So my question is, how would astock IGT2 clutch be? I want something carbon to preserve the bell.., and cheap. Was looking at the orange Go clutch with long-life carbon-covered shoes. Anybody run one?
Also, I think I misordered the pinions, and got 16-21.. Can I run that count even though stock is 16-20?..
Also, I think I misordered the pinions, and got 16-21.. Can I run that count even though stock is 16-20?..
06-25-2011, 08:27 AM
#6822
KYOVS058 CB
Herrsavage:
I have run this CB with many different 3 piece Aluminum, Carbon and 4 shoe set ups with no problems. Nor have had a problem with the thickness of the wall on the CB seems to me a moot point to me.
If you get any build up in the CB just sand it out
This clutch bell works "VERY" well.
try it
As to your gearing being 5 teeth apart thats up to you I run a 4 tooth split.
I have run this CB with many different 3 piece Aluminum, Carbon and 4 shoe set ups with no problems. Nor have had a problem with the thickness of the wall on the CB seems to me a moot point to me.
If you get any build up in the CB just sand it out
This clutch bell works "VERY" well.
try it
As to your gearing being 5 teeth apart thats up to you I run a 4 tooth split.
06-25-2011, 08:38 AM
#6823
I think by 'thin' he means the width of the face of the bell that the shoes contact isn't very wide. As I posted to him earlier, if you run an Ascendancy (or any other Losi-style 4 shoe clutch) the bell isn't 'wide' or 'deep' enough - too much of the shoe won't contact the bell. Use any 3 shoe flywheel with carbon shoes and the bell will cover most of the shoe, with just a little overhang. 16/21 is a 6 tooth split - that's a wide gear split to run IMO.
06-25-2011, 08:41 AM
#6824
16/21 is five teeth 
