Hpi Pro 4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
When HPI had there forum...racers were allowed to talk about other cars..they even had a section just for competitor's various cars.
I sure miss the HPI forum...
I sure miss the HPI forum...
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
When HPI had there forum...racers were allowed to talk about other cars..they even had a section just for competitor's various cars.
I sure miss the HPI forum...
I sure miss the HPI forum...
-Josh
Tech Adept
hpi was the best ,as i say again was the best furum to be on i love the the talk their,i miss it so much. lets move on now guys who balance their wheels?
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
lets move on now guys who balance their wheels?
Tech Adept
a bouncing wheel has no traction.
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
hey everyone,
i recently picked up a Pro4 and ran it for the first time on the weekend. It seemed to have potential but i have no idea where to start for set-up and i was struggling with understeer all weekend. Is there a website i can go to for pro racers set-ups and anyone else's like the xray site or??? i noticed a few posts up someone said to use hara's set-up, where would i find these and others?
Any other speed secrets/ mods to the car would help too, if u dont mind
all help would be appreciated cheers,
Robbie
i recently picked up a Pro4 and ran it for the first time on the weekend. It seemed to have potential but i have no idea where to start for set-up and i was struggling with understeer all weekend. Is there a website i can go to for pro racers set-ups and anyone else's like the xray site or??? i noticed a few posts up someone said to use hara's set-up, where would i find these and others?
Any other speed secrets/ mods to the car would help too, if u dont mind
all help would be appreciated cheers,
Robbie
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
listen up i was in the xray thread at xray , they would never let you compare hpi pro 4 to the xray car . i like to have fair and balance car talk. i like xray tech i hate their forum that why im here. here in america we have free speach ,in other country its control speach like china no free thinking allowed.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
Originally Posted by xray racer
hey everyone,
i recently picked up a Pro4 and ran it for the first time on the weekend. It seemed to have potential but i have no idea where to start for set-up and i was struggling with understeer all weekend. Is there a website i can go to for pro racers set-ups and anyone else's like the xray site or??? i noticed a few posts up someone said to use hara's set-up, where would i find these and others?
Any other speed secrets/ mods to the car would help too, if u dont mind
all help would be appreciated cheers,
Robbie
i recently picked up a Pro4 and ran it for the first time on the weekend. It seemed to have potential but i have no idea where to start for set-up and i was struggling with understeer all weekend. Is there a website i can go to for pro racers set-ups and anyone else's like the xray site or??? i noticed a few posts up someone said to use hara's set-up, where would i find these and others?
Any other speed secrets/ mods to the car would help too, if u dont mind
all help would be appreciated cheers,
Robbie
I have a great set up on carpet for the Pro 4. Works great at WOH.
Here is my set up.
Front
Shocks 3 piston Losi 45wt oil
AE yellow springs
Shocks mounted outer on arm. (Inboard will make the car turn in quick)
Upper 3rd hole out
Camber link outer hole with .75 shim
6 Degree caster blocks
1.0 for front arm mount
1mm roll center shims all around
rear most hole on knuckle
steering ackerman is stock
BSR Double Pink/ Orange
Rear
Shocke 2 piston AE 35wt oil
AE copper spring
Upper mount 3rd hole out
Middle hole bottom
Hub spacing stock
ball stud in inner hole on hub
inboard link set to inner hole 2mm spacer
2 degree toe
BSR Double pink/ purple
Thin purple hex hubs with thin and thick spacers
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
hey guys
i've tried fitting on TC3 gears on and i got both gears to fit on but the small bevel gear is not a good tight fit due the inside hole diameter being the same all the way through where as pro 4 small bevel gear has a smaller diamter hole on the top for it to stay flush with the input shaft slot to fit the E- clip in.
i was wondering how you guys made your TC3 small bevel gears to fit on the input shaft with no slop. as with the slop it causes the gears to crunch at certain points of the radius where the small bevel gear is not dead centre with the input shaft.
also may i ask what the difference in apperance between the 1.1 and stock small bevel gear? i have 2 types hard to explain but one of the gears show all the gears towards the bottom (like in the manual) and one has like a flat washer built into it if you know what i mean
right now im running the pro 4 small bevel gear with the tc3 ring gear as both small gears have the same amount of tooth just dunno how long it will last.
And input will be appreciated
thanks
i've tried fitting on TC3 gears on and i got both gears to fit on but the small bevel gear is not a good tight fit due the inside hole diameter being the same all the way through where as pro 4 small bevel gear has a smaller diamter hole on the top for it to stay flush with the input shaft slot to fit the E- clip in.
i was wondering how you guys made your TC3 small bevel gears to fit on the input shaft with no slop. as with the slop it causes the gears to crunch at certain points of the radius where the small bevel gear is not dead centre with the input shaft.
also may i ask what the difference in apperance between the 1.1 and stock small bevel gear? i have 2 types hard to explain but one of the gears show all the gears towards the bottom (like in the manual) and one has like a flat washer built into it if you know what i mean
right now im running the pro 4 small bevel gear with the tc3 ring gear as both small gears have the same amount of tooth just dunno how long it will last.
And input will be appreciated
thanks
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
The 1.1 bevel gears have the bottom disc moulded into the gear for added support. Pro4's usually strip gears becasue of gear flex. The new 1.1 diff gear is so much thicker to stock the gears from flexing backwards.
Same goes for the new bevel gears. the disc stops the gears from moving apart under load. Use the new ones... ditch the old. (Keep them in your pit-box for emergencies..)
Can't help with the Ae mods... but hope that helps..
Same goes for the new bevel gears. the disc stops the gears from moving apart under load. Use the new ones... ditch the old. (Keep them in your pit-box for emergencies..)
Can't help with the Ae mods... but hope that helps..
Please help to shed some light on some problems I have with Pro 4. I have been racing with front diff and it is a great car with good steering traits. I put the front one-way in and the car becomes twitchy. It spins out when I apply little throttle. I am not talking about going into a turn and braking. It happens coming out and when I acclerate. I wonder if it has something to do with torque steering and whether the one way makes this trait more pronounced and makes my car spins out. I was enjoying the car without one way and even considering getting a second one but I am not sure now that the car acts this way with a one-way. The only set up I changed is the put make the front harder using HPI springs vs. back end harder when using diff (also use HPI boack springs).
Please help to explain this phenomenon. Also, I have been hearing from some of fellow racers about negative aspect of this car. I am hoping that is not the case. Thanks
Please help to explain this phenomenon. Also, I have been hearing from some of fellow racers about negative aspect of this car. I am hoping that is not the case. Thanks
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
One-ways and spools offer advantages over a regular diff for several reasons.
A diff can only provide power if both wheels have traction on the ground. If the traciton is uneven between the two sides, then the diff unloads and you get no forward drive.
A one-way will give you MUCH MUCH better steering both on power and off power compared to the diff. Off, power the wheels are free to rotate and you scrub off very little speed. This is great for corners.
Out of a corner, the one-way allows the car to turn and drive as hard as the front wheels can allow. This is because the wheel will "Drive" as long as the shaft speed is higher than the rotating speed.
A one-way is an advanced tool for drivers who can handle the extra drive and steering.
You will need to revise your set-up when using a one-way. Try these following changes:
Increase front spring hardness
Increase front damping weight
Move lower shock hole outwards
Turn down steering dual rate
Use more droop
shorten camber link (use outer hole)
increase chassis flex (don't use centre post)
increase castor(this increases initial turn in, but reduces exit steering)
decrease rear spring hardness
decrease rear sping damping weight
add rear toe
use slightly less droop
lengthen top camber link
This is just a starter list to get you going. What i'd do?
Run a set-up similar to this...
FRONT:
front ride height 5mm
use short front link
40wt front - run 2hole telfon pistons
silver springs
4 deg castor
REAR:
6mm ride height
use long link
40wt rear - run two hole teflon pistons
white springs
3deg toe
This is a VERY GENERAL set-up. but it gives you an idea... then adjust to your liking with your dual-rate. The kit settings are actually pretty reasonable so give that a try too!
A diff can only provide power if both wheels have traction on the ground. If the traciton is uneven between the two sides, then the diff unloads and you get no forward drive.
A one-way will give you MUCH MUCH better steering both on power and off power compared to the diff. Off, power the wheels are free to rotate and you scrub off very little speed. This is great for corners.
Out of a corner, the one-way allows the car to turn and drive as hard as the front wheels can allow. This is because the wheel will "Drive" as long as the shaft speed is higher than the rotating speed.
A one-way is an advanced tool for drivers who can handle the extra drive and steering.
You will need to revise your set-up when using a one-way. Try these following changes:
Increase front spring hardness
Increase front damping weight
Move lower shock hole outwards
Turn down steering dual rate
Use more droop
shorten camber link (use outer hole)
increase chassis flex (don't use centre post)
increase castor(this increases initial turn in, but reduces exit steering)
decrease rear spring hardness
decrease rear sping damping weight
add rear toe
use slightly less droop
lengthen top camber link
This is just a starter list to get you going. What i'd do?
Run a set-up similar to this...
FRONT:
front ride height 5mm
use short front link
40wt front - run 2hole telfon pistons
silver springs
4 deg castor
REAR:
6mm ride height
use long link
40wt rear - run two hole teflon pistons
white springs
3deg toe
This is a VERY GENERAL set-up. but it gives you an idea... then adjust to your liking with your dual-rate. The kit settings are actually pretty reasonable so give that a try too!
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
The 1.1 bevel gears have the bottom disc moulded into the gear for added support. Pro4's usually strip gears becasue of gear flex. The new 1.1 diff gear is so much thicker to stock the gears from flexing backwards.
Same goes for the new bevel gears. the disc stops the gears from moving apart under load. Use the new ones... ditch the old. (Keep them in your pit-box for emergencies..)
Can't help with the Ae mods... but hope that helps..
Same goes for the new bevel gears. the disc stops the gears from moving apart under load. Use the new ones... ditch the old. (Keep them in your pit-box for emergencies..)
Can't help with the Ae mods... but hope that helps..
in saying that my pro shouldnt have a problem anymore with the 1.1 small bevel gear and the tc3 ring gear
Thank you Angry Asian. I will give your suggestions a try.
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Yeah they are such a pain. They are such nobs. Unable to take fair talk. When the T2 came out and no parts anywhere. I suggested what other car parts will work until T2 parts were out. And they got all bent out of shape. I was not saying the parts were better. Just what to use. Heck parts for the T2 are still tough to get.