pucho

I had a few go out like that, then I changed to alluminum. now Im runing the cyclone and I just transfered them over.

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

i have two kit both a very well but i still havent decide which kit will going to used. for the track what i can say can be high speed and technical. the track temp will be mostly 50 or more celcius. air temp will be 32 to 42 celcius. the traction will be middle range only do not know what is the traction when they apply the sugar water. for this track althought many people using 7 turn but i still preffer 8 turn some times due to to punch for me.

iblumberg

I am bulding a Pro 4 Hara and so far (about 1/2 done) everything looks very good except for one problem.

The left side delrin outdrive in the rear diff gets much too tight when I install the outdrive ring. As a result, the dog bone won't slide in this outdrive unless I take off the outdrive ring. I have tried switching rings, but that does not help. I have also verified that the right side fits fine. It appears that left side outdrive has a greater circumference than the right side. Thus, the outdrive ring mashes the halves together.

Also, the outdrive rings fit the plastic outdrives fine.

Any suggestions?

Ira

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

Measure the outdrive ring landing with some calipers and verify that it is indeed off. You probably have a blem outdrive is all. You can probably take a thin file or if your careful a dremel with a cut off wheel, and clearance the landing more where you need to.

Perhapes the diameter is correct and it's width is not, then you can maybe either widen the gap with a file, or grind down your outdrive ring a little and make it thinner to fit.

Other than replacing the outdrive with a good one you can really only figure out where it's binding and fix it.

iblumberg

Thanks for the suggestion. I called HPI and they also suggested trimming a bit with a hobby knife. I will try this. To their credit, the HPI customer service rep also offered to send me a replacement outdrive set just in case the hobby knife does not work. Good customer service is always appreciated.

Thanks HPI.

Ira

floodo1

if it was me i would sand the outside of the outdrive down, so that when you put the ring on it fits, and doesnt compress the outdrive.

modifying the pin slot is generally a bad idea because this is a major friction point. if you manage to get a groove or step in there it could cause the outdrive to wear out much quicker.

i mainly suggest this because its a direct fix to the problem with no adverse effects!

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

What form of shimming with delrin outdrives are you guys using? I find that with the newer style ring and pinion the gear mesh is a little tight. I found that newer ring gear and old style pinion had a better mesh. Anyone else find this?

ngo8

if you run a couple of times it will break in and it will work fine and roll just as good as before

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Thanks,

I am looking for BMI front shock tower for the Pro4 in titanium. So if anyone has a spare just needing a home. Let me know. Thanks.

BMI does not have them any more. I have to buy a full kit to get one.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone have any tips on keeping the stock alu centre drive shaft from vibrating?

Mine seems to wobble and resonate. I've got a new on on order, and thinking of upgrading to the aluminium cups.

Any thoughts ppl?

floodo1

i had to upgrade to AL center drive cups for just this reason. My plastic cups wobbled a LOT....switched to the AL cups and almost all of that is gone. there IS still a little run out but its not major.

I'm pretty picky, in fact i want my shaft to spin perfectly true, but it doesnt

Also wear on the AL drive cups is VERY VERY minor, just enough to be noticeable but NOTHING to worry about.


Also i'd recommend going with a graphite shaft by the dude that sells them here, rather than another AL one.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Kick-ass... thanks for the advice..

Also, i have the 1.1, wondering if it's worthwhile swapping the input shafts over to a 1-piece unit. (I have alu units in but it's a shaft only)
There is a lot of kick-back in the system from the number of pins needed to keep the bevel gears on, the spur adaptor etc..

There's a one-piece spur adaptor-input shaft, and there's a 1-piece alu bevel gear shaft. Has anyone used these? (i think they're standard on the hara ed.)

Worth the upgrade?

Cheers guys..

Nicadrauspro4

I am using the original HPI carbon shaft on my pro but still using the plastic cups. I'm running my car with 23T motor on asphalt. There's no wobbling that I see as of now. It spins very smooth. But I heard that if I run it with modified motors, there is a tendency that the shaft will wobble till it breaks.

I am planning to get the Jet aluminum center ups and the carbon shaft manufactured by ewippler (check out the thread: Carbon Fiber Shafts for Touring cars.). I've read many positive feedbacks about his products. His carbon shafts can also be used with mod motors. No wobbling and breaking. Which means there are no limits for ewipplers carbon shafts.

Here's the link to ewippler's thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66286

Nicadrauspro4

You can only use the front aluminum bevel and plastic for the rear if you're going to use the one piece aluminum shaft gear adaptor. Because both parts have built-in shafts. The aluminum bevel gear is most advised rather than the aluminum shaft gear adaptor.

Lastly, the aluminum bevel gears are standard on the 2005 edition. Not with the Hara edition.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Righto... gotcha.


As for the centre shaft, i can't imagine the emotional pain i'd go through if i managed to score a carbon shaft in my car. The number of pro4's with scored and bent alu shafts i've seen leads me to stay away from the carbon shaft for my own wallet's sake!

Looks like alu cups and the integrated bevel gear are next on my list of upgrades.

Thanks guys...