86LikesHpi Pro 4
01-13-2005, 09:25 AM
#9676
hi guys.
I'm using andy moore's set up from cleveland on my BMI pro4, and the car is very easy to drive in stock and mod.... but sometime in mod the car tends to push on power so I just have to easy it out of of the corner. I just need to know if any one could help me and make the car more neutral out of the corner..
by the way I use no2 and no2 on the rear cambe link position. I'm wondering if using no1 and no1 would be better..
regard
Rez
I'm using andy moore's set up from cleveland on my BMI pro4, and the car is very easy to drive in stock and mod.... but sometime in mod the car tends to push on power so I just have to easy it out of of the corner. I just need to know if any one could help me and make the car more neutral out of the corner..
by the way I use no2 and no2 on the rear cambe link position. I'm wondering if using no1 and no1 would be better..
regard
Rez
01-13-2005, 09:51 AM
#9677
Tech Fanatic
You too? I had the same problem.
01-13-2005, 10:14 AM
#9678
EvilDriver: there a few things.
I ran that set-up this weekend and had a similar issue.
I changed front toe a little as I didn't need much.
However, you may look at rear anti-squat.
That could make a huge difference.
also, I thought the BMI chassis is a little longer than the stock HPI.
I ran that set-up this weekend and had a similar issue.
I changed front toe a little as I didn't need much.
However, you may look at rear anti-squat.
That could make a huge difference.
also, I thought the BMI chassis is a little longer than the stock HPI.
01-13-2005, 11:59 AM
#9679
thanks tres.
I'm prob going to try that, right now I've have .5 mm anti squat in the rear as it was on andy moore set up.. maybe I'll try to use 1.5mm spacer on the rear to give it more anti squat.. theorically more anti squat in the rear should give enable me to pull the throttle sooner right ?
I'll try it tonight, hopefully it would be good for the January Jam race this weekend lol..
accidently I tried to use a 2.5 rear block to give the rear more stability.. it didn't cause it almost stall mid corner.. lol
and another thing.. the camber on the setup is +.5 deg right.. ? cause I tried to give it a -.5deg on the set up it tends to cone the tires..
and tres my BMI chassis have the same lenght as the regular 2.5mm chassis but thicker.. I just measure it.. the only thing that diffent between them is the front part of the chassis.
well let me try this adjustment and I'll let you know tonight when I get back..
later
Rez
I'm prob going to try that, right now I've have .5 mm anti squat in the rear as it was on andy moore set up.. maybe I'll try to use 1.5mm spacer on the rear to give it more anti squat.. theorically more anti squat in the rear should give enable me to pull the throttle sooner right ?
I'll try it tonight, hopefully it would be good for the January Jam race this weekend lol..
accidently I tried to use a 2.5 rear block to give the rear more stability.. it didn't cause it almost stall mid corner.. lol
and another thing.. the camber on the setup is +.5 deg right.. ? cause I tried to give it a -.5deg on the set up it tends to cone the tires..
and tres my BMI chassis have the same lenght as the regular 2.5mm chassis but thicker.. I just measure it.. the only thing that diffent between them is the front part of the chassis.
well let me try this adjustment and I'll let you know tonight when I get back..
later
Rez
01-13-2005, 12:06 PM
#9680
Hi all.
I race last weekend and got managed to a-main.
I have to say at that Andy Moore`s Carpet World Cup set-up is really awsome.
We used controlled CS-27 tires and track was medium bite, so it was lot of fun.
I race last weekend and got managed to a-main.
I have to say at that Andy Moore`s Carpet World Cup set-up is really awsome.
We used controlled CS-27 tires and track was medium bite, so it was lot of fun.
01-13-2005, 12:23 PM
#9681
Moore's setup up
On our track with Moore's setup I went to 2* caster block, Rear camber link at #2 in and out, and rear shock in one hole from outside (#3 maybe???) That really locked in the balance with lots of steering on and off power. That's with mod though. Stock might changes things a little.
I couldn't do the up-travel limiting though. Took away way to much rear bite. I can see how it would probably be good for big races where the traction gets so high, just not good for club racing.
take care
john
I couldn't do the up-travel limiting though. Took away way to much rear bite. I can see how it would probably be good for big races where the traction gets so high, just not good for club racing.
take care
john
01-13-2005, 12:45 PM
#9683
Tech Regular
Hi all, i'm a new Pro4 owner (for about 1 month) and still setting up the car. This is my first "high end" RC and i'm really impressed by the quality of the car. I'm reading this thread from page 1 but after a 2 weeks reading i'm only up to page 230 so i'm still trying to catch up 
Apart from radio interference, i have the same rear diff keep lossening problem like many of you but anyway, i've just put in a new rear ball diff yesterday (the old one got some problems) and after 5 mins or so, the car stopped running and this is what i found:
seems like i didn't apply enough grease and melt the plastic bit?
oh well lesson learnt and maybe i can just glue everything together and use it as a front spool ??? is front spool easier to control than the one way?
Thanks
Apart from radio interference, i have the same rear diff keep lossening problem like many of you but anyway, i've just put in a new rear ball diff yesterday (the old one got some problems) and after 5 mins or so, the car stopped running and this is what i found: seems like i didn't apply enough grease and melt the plastic bit?
oh well lesson learnt and maybe i can just glue everything together and use it as a front spool ??? is front spool easier to control than the one way?
Thanks
01-13-2005, 01:25 PM
#9686
Tech Regular
Originally posted by dizzy1
The diff needs a few runs to "break in". Did you recheck the diff setting? Looks like it was too loose and heated up and melted.
The diff needs a few runs to "break in". Did you recheck the diff setting? Looks like it was too loose and heated up and melted.
and i just put this new diff in, and only run it for like 4-5 mins (or less) at slower than normal speed to test the new diff. so that was before i got a chance to recheck the setting
01-13-2005, 01:28 PM
#9687
Tech Regular
so you guys reckon it's because of loose diff? not not enough grease?
01-13-2005, 01:39 PM
#9688
Tech Adept
yellow15
Looking at the pictures of your Diff it does look like it was loose or come loose. That let the plastic slip inside the D washer. This gets the diff hot very Quick.
I always yoose Blue thread lock on the diff nut and have not had one go loose for 8 months.
Looking at the pictures of your Diff it does look like it was loose or come loose. That let the plastic slip inside the D washer. This gets the diff hot very Quick.
I always yoose Blue thread lock on the diff nut and have not had one go loose for 8 months.
01-13-2005, 02:04 PM
#9689
Tech Regular
ok so now it leads to my next question.
how tight should i tighten the diff? I've tighen it following the instruction (i.e. each side can still rotate smoothly but can't turn the center gear when you hold both end and ) and i don't want to overtighten it cos i've already snapped more than one center screw when i was trying to make it real tight. (after it keep loosening)
i'm running a Novak SS5800 brushless at our local outdoor track
how tight should i tighten the diff? I've tighen it following the instruction (i.e. each side can still rotate smoothly but can't turn the center gear when you hold both end and ) and i don't want to overtighten it cos i've already snapped more than one center screw when i was trying to make it real tight. (after it keep loosening)
i'm running a Novak SS5800 brushless at our local outdoor track
01-13-2005, 02:08 PM
#9690
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
... In addition to what Rookie Solara has reposted, you can follow a simple break-in procedure to make sure all the moving parts seat securely. 1.) During diff assembly, make sure you compressed the spring fully at least 4 or 5 times. If not, tear it down, do it, and then rebuild. 2.) After the car is fully ready to run, put the car on a stand or somehow elevate the tires so they can move freely. 3.) Hold the left rear tire and gradually feed in some throttle. Do this for 5~10 seconds. Do NOT use more than 1/8th throttle. If done improperly, or if built incorrectly, you will melt or damage your parts! 4.) Repeat step 3, but this time holding the right rear. 5.) Now that the moving parts have seated, turn a rear wheel to check for smoothness of diff action. 6.) To check the tightness of the diff, hold the left rear tire with your palm, then hold the spur with your thumb and index finger. 7.) Now, try to rotate the right rear tire. If it slips (rotates at all), your diff is too loose and needs to be tightened. Caution: if you try to use too much force on a properly tightened diff, you can cause the bevel gears to jump teeth (you will hear a popping noise, scary, but 9 times out of 10 causing no damage). Note: You can set your diff looser than this, but this is always a good starting point and you can then tune to taste. If your diff is too loose, you will melt and/ or break parts. 8). If using a front differential, repeat with the front diff. Other people may have other techniques, but this is one that is relatively simple and works for most. If you don’t want to use a race motor for this, feel free to substitute an older practice motor, or even better, an old stocker on something like a Turbo 35 or Quantum on the break-in setting, set to very low voltage.
-E
... In addition to what Rookie Solara has reposted, you can follow a simple break-in procedure to make sure all the moving parts seat securely. 1.) During diff assembly, make sure you compressed the spring fully at least 4 or 5 times. If not, tear it down, do it, and then rebuild. 2.) After the car is fully ready to run, put the car on a stand or somehow elevate the tires so they can move freely. 3.) Hold the left rear tire and gradually feed in some throttle. Do this for 5~10 seconds. Do NOT use more than 1/8th throttle. If done improperly, or if built incorrectly, you will melt or damage your parts! 4.) Repeat step 3, but this time holding the right rear. 5.) Now that the moving parts have seated, turn a rear wheel to check for smoothness of diff action. 6.) To check the tightness of the diff, hold the left rear tire with your palm, then hold the spur with your thumb and index finger. 7.) Now, try to rotate the right rear tire. If it slips (rotates at all), your diff is too loose and needs to be tightened. Caution: if you try to use too much force on a properly tightened diff, you can cause the bevel gears to jump teeth (you will hear a popping noise, scary, but 9 times out of 10 causing no damage). Note: You can set your diff looser than this, but this is always a good starting point and you can then tune to taste. If your diff is too loose, you will melt and/ or break parts. 8). If using a front differential, repeat with the front diff. Other people may have other techniques, but this is one that is relatively simple and works for most. If you don’t want to use a race motor for this, feel free to substitute an older practice motor, or even better, an old stocker on something like a Turbo 35 or Quantum on the break-in setting, set to very low voltage.
-E